torxxx

well if the boot was ripped when you put it in, the grease came out, dirt got in there and the ****s bad. Also sometimes remanufactured stuff means crap parts. Is the CV Joint loose or the castle nut at the end of the axle? Depending on where its loose from, the pin that holds the axle on the tranny could have been left out and that would make the inside of the axle slide back and forth prolly 1 or 2 inches

lol.. I can do both..... Think I fish a lil better than fixin my car though

Alright. I'm gonna make someone else do it, so its not my rump roast if I dont get it right. GAWD I hate Autos

Yeah. Bristol Bay is cool in the summer, but thats it. The winters there are so damn lame.. No snow. All it does it rain during the winter

If the boot is ripped the axle is shot. Get another one

hehe thats why I said Junkyard. you dont replace just the struts.. replace the whole thing. strut and spring. No spring compressor needed

lol... the guy from work thinks he knows everything about all cars thats why I didnt believe him. If you've done it before I'll take your word

Its like 30 F up here right now. The fires are finally out. Where at in Bristol Bay did you guide? I grew up in Naknek. If you got msn messenger add me. whitey@myself.com

Fairbanks You?

Alright thanks man, thats all I needed to hear. The guy who told me that at work is a crackhead so I didnt wanna believe him. Thanks

Look down the defrost stripes on the back window. Most likely one of the stripes got corroded. They sell a kit to fix it at napa. Its like 10 bucks. If the stripes are bad in one spot, it should be darker then the rest of them. Clean it off with rubbing alcohol and install the glue like the package says

85-92 wagons will work for that I got mine from a JY for 20 bucks a strut. The fronts require taking the tire off taking the 3 bolts out of the top of the strut (10 or 12 mm) and the 2 on the bottom holding it to the spindle ( 14mm ). For the rear, take the tire off, then you got 2 17mm bolts on the top of the strut and on the bottom there is a 17 mm bolt holding the bottom of the shock. It took me 30 min to change my fronts and the rear took a little longer because the top 2 17mm bolts are a bitch to get out. I had to take the entire bolt out using a breaker bar because it was seized in there. Good luck with it. If you get them from a JY get the ones that look the newest and/or the car with the lowest mileage

More crap with the turbo I'm rebuilding at work. Someone there mentioned the torx converter has to be put on the tranny and then have the engine put in and bolt it up from the tranny. The guy said the car wouldnt move if I didnt do it that way. I just wanted to double check if I can't just bolt the torx converter to the block and just put it back in the way I took it out, or If I have to do it the other way (putting torx converter onto the tranny first)? Thanks to who ever responds

oh ok. well that pretty much answers my question. I didnt want to put it back together until I made sure Thanks for the help

So I'm rebuilding a turbo at work. changing heads and all the seals. When I pulled the flywheel off I didnt mark where it was to the crankshaft. So to make sure I get it back on right (so the timing marks are lined up right) what do I have to do? The 3 marks on the flywheel (used for putting on the t-belts) the center line is for 1st cylinder TDC correct? So then if the center line is at the top mark on the bell housing and 1st cylinder it TDC everything will work right for when I time the engine correct?

Heres what you do. This works I did both my bearings in less than an hour. Use a 3/8 inch socket extention to pound out the bearings. The extention has rounded corners so it wont burr the bearing seat. Clean the spindle in solvent, repack the new bearings and then pound them in using the old bearings (make sure to not seat the old one on top) Finish seating them all the way down using a 40 mm socket. The bearings are actually pretty tuff. We beat the hell out of mine and they came out working fine.

heres what I do. grease the seals when you put the cam covers back on. helps the seals from drying out. All the bolts are easy to get to. You can access then from the top of the engine

You know you need a better subaru dealer when.... They wont let you test drive the WRX STi just because they are a bunch of b!tches

I'm in fairbanks. But yea minus a few patches its rust free

AMEN!!! Thank god you found that.. my car needs it bad.. 8 HLA's makin noise makes it hard to listen to the stereo

welcome to the joys of having a carbbed EA82. My car runs anywhere from 18 mpg to 27 mpg depending on how it feels.

86 is a OHC.. I have one... OHV is for 1600 CC engines

Well I am in Fairbanks. Someone give me a day and I'll work it in.

Nope I have nothing to do with valvtect. http://www.valvtect.com/products.asp#Opi at the bottom of the page. The problem with the gas down here is that it is barged into town. There is no road in and out of here. They have to let the fuel sit and settle for like 2 weeks after they fill the main tanks back up. So the overall fuel we get here is crappy. Only "87" octane is offered at the one gas station in town and I doubt if its even 85.

good call guys. I was just gonna start a thread about it. We need to have one. I have 2 buddies in FBKS with soobys that would prolly come down with me. I will be in Anchorage on the 4th and 5th and maybe part of the 6th, but I'm also willing to make the 5 hour drive down when ever you guys wanna have a meet. Kelly I gotta see your car man. When divies come out I'm finally gonna get my lift. Any if anyone has Jon's (Battle Wagon Medic) phone number or a way to get ahold of him, pm me plz. I wanna see if he got the NOS monster runnin yet