dburton97128

Belated follow up: I did the battery disconnect thing several times with no effect. I did the key on/engine off and cycle the throttle 3 times slowly with no effect. I took off the cover to check the TPS. I removed ~1/8 slack from both throttle cables. I disconnected the TPS and checked the system voltage and ground connections. I did not check the TPS action since I didn't have time to take off the air box to access it's pins. I noticed when I had the TPS disconnected and ignition on that here was a continuous low buzzing sound going on some where in the engine compartment. I disconnected the battery again, pressed the brake, turned the ignition on and off. After hooking it all back up I found that it had greatly improved. It's like a new car taking off or trying to accelerate into traffic. Not sure exactly what did it, but the only real new thing I did was disconnect the TPS for a while and take the slack out of the cables. I would have thought the cable slack would only cause some initial dead action at the beginning of throttle application. Cruise control engagement is also much quicker and I don't have to hold the throttle set for a few seconds waiting for it to pick up the slack anymore. Hope this helps someone else.

Went to the local dealer. The parts guy said use HP. When I questioned that he went and asked the main mechanic and he said use dex/merc. I guess I will either use Valvoline maxlife or the HP. I use the Amsoil products but their ATF is just so expensive and you need like 12 qts to do a complete change.

You mean dexron VI? IV & V apparently don't exist. Most word is the VI is not the same as III and often doesn't work well in older trannys, even though the claims say it is backwards compatible.

Manual calls for Dexron III, but since that is no more what is best to use? I see so much conflicting and indeterminate information. Subaru HP? Valvoline Maxlife? Dexron VI? Aisin T-IV? Has Subaru issued any kind of definitive recommendation? Thanks.

Not a spark plug problem, sparks plugs don't fail all at once like this. Could have been total absence of spark, maybe coil or something, but I would have thought I would get a code for that. Check engine light on but that is expected when the engine is not running. Goes out a few seconds after starting. It was not particularly cold. ~125,000 mi. I'll look into the fuel pump cap issue. Does sound like that could be it. I'd like to identify exactly what parts my car might need before opening it up. Hopefully can figure that out from that thread. BTW this is actually a 2003, not 2004. Thanks.

My 2003 H6 failed to start the other day. It turned over and fired for a fraction of a second and then just cranked with no attempt to fire at all. I checked the oil and it was at the low line so I filled it up. It still would not start, but after craning for 10-15 seconds several times it started to fire roughly and then began to run fine. It's been running perfectly ever since. I was wondering if there was some kind of low oil sensor that was kicking in but see nothing about that. There were no codes thrown when it was failing to start or after. Any idea what this might have been? Wouldn't like to be stranded anywhere if it happens again. Thanks.

Got the key code deciphered at the local key shop for $18. 3 additional keys for $13 more. Seems to have worked. Was able to get one key to work with persuasion and drove it in to the shop.

Thanks. I called around and did find a local guy who thinks he can do it without removing anything by reading the key profile or probing the lock. Here's hoping it's just the key and the ignition is still OK. $25 vs $500.

So my 2003 Outback LLBean H6 ignition keys started hanging up when inserted and won't turn. My original, which may be worn a bit as well, barely works with persuasion. Subaru won't do me a key. They threw away all the key codes older than 10 years. Why in their right mind would they do that? Dealer wants $500 to put in a new ignition that then would not match the doors. What's the chance it's just a key problem and the ignition is still good? Not sure I can be without the car long enough to tear it all out and send to NY and back, but don't want to get totally stranded either. Are there any Subaru lock experts in OR who could do this? If I had a chart for my key like that above I could maybe program it to cut on my milling machine Anyone ever tear open an ignition and re-condition it somehow? Thanks.

Well running premium does up the pep but doesn't change the shifting behavior. Double pumping the accelerator to pass works fairly nicely though. Still need to get around to checking the TPS.

Well I'll look at it again next time I do it and see if I actually can get my hand up there and grip enough to tighten fully. Thanks.

Good info. Didn't know about the 2nd gear position forcing 2nd instead of 1st. Don't really know if I would need 1st or 2nd when pulling out. Probably depends on how much I needed to slow down before merging. All I know is a 2 or 3 second delay to get out of OD or 3rd is the pits for merging in traffic or turning through short gaps in heavy oncoming traffic.

The biggest problem with this occurs when I have decelerated to a relatively slow speed (10-30 mph) and then need it to kick into 2nd or even 1st to accelerate into traffic, which is more troublesome to do manually because of the jog. Also mine won't shift into 1st manually if the car is moving.

I'm thinking if there is a problem this is most likely the TPS. Something must signal the tranny to downshift and I assume that is the issue. Haven't noticed much to complain about at high speed, it's not as big an issue, though it does still take it a bit to decide to downshift. It's not like the shifting is slow, but more like it is delayed. Once it decides to shift the shift is smooth and appropriate.

No codes. Tranny fluid has had full flush and replace recently. New tranny filter. No extra flashing lights. Recent plug change as well. It could be a TPS issue, but I haven't looked more closely at that. I think this one is still cable actuated. Would be nice to know how it is supposed to perform if everything is right.