dburton97128

Swapped both. It worked. Thanks.

I thought I posted this already but FF must have crashed first and lost it. I have a 95 Legacy with cyl 3-4 not firing. I ahve a spare coil and igniter from another wrecked car to swap in. My question is if a bad igniter can damage a good coil. If the igniter is shorted on would that burn out the coil primary winding? Am I better off to change both? I could do the light bulb test on the coil primary but this needs to be done by my son in another state and he may not have the resources to do that. Thanks.

Thanks!

I put in an autozone axle 10 years ago, but the boot has finally failed, as well as the boot on the other side. (and the lower ball joints and steering boots). I suppose I got a fair amount of use out of the Autozone axle. And they are replacing it free. There is an axle for manual trans FWD listed, and another for auto tran FWD or apparently both auto and manual with AWD. 10376 & 7330 are the numbers. Looking at the axles I see three variations in these two part numbers, but it seems they are all equivalent for fit and function. The biggest difference I see is the diameter of the CV hub on the axle nearest the transmission. I measure axles with 29.", 3", 3.1" and 3.3" dia. I suppose the double or tripod joint styles mentioned above are internal features and do not effect fit and function. I've apparently had one of one flavor on the right and one of the other flavor on the left for 10 years. Thanks for the advice.

I went to replace my front axles on a 95 Legacy AWD manual transmission and in looking up the parts I saw one for a 'front wheel drive manual transmission' and another for 'AWD' or 'AWD' with auto trans. They look the same though one may be 1/8 or so different length. Does 'front wheel drive' imply no rear wheel drive? There is also another listed for this vehicle 'AWD' that seems quit different with shafts on both ends of the axel rather than having a shaft come out of the transmission. How many different types are they and if different PN's look the same to me how will I determine for sure which is right for this vehicle? Thanks.

Thatnks for all the great replies to this problem! I wasn't looking forward to tearing off my intake maniforld just to change this thing.

I'm also getting this code on rare occasions. I've cleared it but it does recurr. Hasn't doen it for a few weeks now and it seems to drive the same even when the check engine light comes on. No other codes appear. This is on a 95 Outback L wagon and they say you have to tear the whole top assembly, intake manifold etc. off to get to it. Just as soon not do that.

Well I did something dumb. When I put the knocking cylinder spark plug back it I somehow bent the tip and closed the gap. Since it was not firing the knock sound was gone. I got to noticiting it ran a bit rough and so tracked down the non-functional plug. I had not driven it, just run it momentarily with the covers off. After fixing the plug I can still hear the knock if I try hard to make it happen. It's still way less than it was before so maybe it is piston slap. I put in a new Ca belt ($30) and re-lubed the old pully bearings. We'll see how long it goes, buts it's been more than a year already and the knock hasn't gotten worse, in fact it's gotten better.

OK, here is an update. I used a big screwdriver to my ear and checked the tensioner. It's not there. I also increased the tensioner pressure a bit by prying the tension wheel with a big screwdriver while reving the engine and saw no difference. I then tried pulling the passenger side front cyl plug wire. (engine off, I've do that before). The noise went away. I plugged it back in and the noise came back. I switched to remove the plug wire from the next cyl. Noise is still there. I took all the plugs out. The suspect cyl plug didn't seem totally tight an the gasket ring was left stuck in the cyl head after removing the plug. Around the seat on the rubber plug cover there was what looked like some fine white ash. Could be a micro leak around the plug seal? Could also be aluminum oxide powder from some casting corrosion? I checked the compression and it was ~180 on the passenger side cylinders. I could not do the driver side since my test tool won't fit in without removing the washer tank and battery. I made a tool out of an 8 inch nail to pull out the seized plug seal ring. I re-gapped all the plugs, put anti-seize on the threads and re-installed them. After starting up it seems there is no more knock. So what was it? Could it have just been a bad spark plug seal? If it was piston slap it sure sounded exactly like the numerous loose rod bearings I've had experience with. Not that I'm complaining about it not being rod knock. I'll now invest is a timing belt and new pulleys. Thanks for the advise. I'll report back if it turns out the problems are not solved.

Thanks, a good fit for the price. I think the AZ kit for $114 does not include the new seals, though I think this one is for DOHC and mine is SOHC (3 oil seals instead of 5) They call out the SOHC but list parts for 5 seals?

I did a cell phone video. See it here: Timing covers are off, belt and tensioner shown at up to around 3000 rpm. A knocking sound occurs around 3000 rpm with the engine lightly loaded. The knock sounds a little more solid in real life than in this cell phone video. I can't see anything to make me thing it's timing belt/pulley related. It's due for a timing belt change, but I think I'll just put it back together and run it until it dies. I have a 90 engine I can swap in when the time comes. I've been driving this a bout a year now and it hasn't gotten any worse. (I keep the rpm below the knock speed). Is there any chance I could change a rod bushing just by dropping the pan? The rear pan bolts are unaccessable behind the support cross member, but I suppose I could drill some holes just over the bolt heads. What's worth doing here? Thanks

I did a cell phone video. See it here: Timing covers are off, belt and tensioner shown at up to around 3000 rpm. A knocking sound occurs around 3000 rpm with the engine lightly loaded. The knock sounds a little more solid in real life than in this cell phone video. I can't see anything to make me thing it's timing belt/pulley related. It's due for a timing belt change, but I think I'll just put it back together and run it until it dies. I have a 90 engine I can swap in when the time comes. I've been driving this a bout a year now and it hasn't gotten any worse. (I keep the rpm below the knock speed). Is there any chance I could change a rod bushing just by dropping the pan? The rear pan bolts are unaccessable behind the support cross member, but I suppose I could drill some holes just over the bolt heads. What's worth doing here? Thanks

Mine sounds more like this: Doesn't explain why it would go away for a while though. Maybe I should put my timing belt back on and break out the camcorder.

No, I'd say that's a ticking. I hear the valves for a second or so at startup. It sounds more like a 'knocking' and it occurs around 3000 rpm, especially under light load.

Well, I took it apart. I ran it with the timing covers off and don't see any obvious timing related issues, though I can still hear the knock around 3000 rpm. It sounds like it comes from the block behind the drivers side timing pulley. No pulley or tensioner bolts were loose, though the tensioner bolts were not very tight. Free spinning the pulleys and water pump did not show any obvious issues, though the pulley bearings seem like they've nearly used up their supply of lubricant and probably should be replaced (~180k mi). This is a 5spd car, not auto. Does it still sound like a timing belt related problem? Thanks.

Autozone wants $30 for a California timing belt and $40 for the non-CA belt. Why is the 105k mile timing belt cheaper if it is true there is no dimensional difference? (95 Legacy L wagon, the emissions sticker is gone and I don't now how else to look up the timing belt part. I have it out and will take it down with me) BTW, for a 'kit' with water pump and all the idler pulleys they want almost 3x more ($320 vs. $114) for the CA version, which does include a replacement tensioner.

Thanks!

Is this observable with the covers off as when you change a timing belt? Thx.

Let us know what it was when it finally does. Thx.

Hi, I have a 95 Lagacy L wagon that has had a sound exactly like a rod knocking. I've been driving it for the last year anyway since my experience is they sometimes go a long time with a knocking rod and not die completely. For the last few weeks it has stopped knocking! (I did hear it just a little again today.) I've had cars with the loose rods and with sluggish lifters so I know what rod knock sounds like as well as valve rattle. This sure sounded exactly like a rod knock. RPM and load dependent starting at about 2750 rpm and above, and especially prevalent as the throttle is backed off. I can't image how a knocking rod could heal itself and stop knocking. Valve noise I have experience with tends to last a few seconds at start up or longer if the lifters don't pump up readily. Once they are tight they don't usually start again as RPMs increase. I do hear the valves knock at startup , but it stops after a second or so as expected. What could this be if not a rod knocking? How could it be a rod knocking if it went away? Any other ideas? Thanks.

I have a 95 Legacy L wagon 5spd. I need to replace the timing belt, but the parts guys say they need to know if it is CA emissions. There is no sticker in the engine compartment, or I cannot find it. It looks like it may have fallen off if it was on the cross member above the radiator. There is a spot of some residue there that may be where it was. I tried a VIN number lookup but it did not give that info. I have replaced the timing belt before so I must have known it then, or just guessed correctly. Any ideas how to figure this out? Thanks.

I believe the EJ22 engine (2.2L going back to 1990 or so) is also interferance. I just changed one and I'm sure there was interference when I rotated the cam pully by hand. You don't want one of these to break on you.