xrturbo

???? i would maybe consider another mechanic if he told you that nut holds the rotor on, and there isn't a cotter pin to hold it it is a crush type nut. the bearing failed because of not having the proper torque from the nut coming loose. and also i wouldnt waste your time on a used hub, you will be back to where you are at now at some time or another. it is a much better deal to just get a new bearing pressed into the hub. who knows what mileage will be on the used hub you would get. and the abs light is probably on because when the bearing failed the hub pitched to the side and knocked the little nub that sticks off the end of the wheel sensor.

i deffinately would do it with the timing belt. it is pretty rare that they do fail but if it does than you are back to ripping it apart again.

just pull up the that rubber grommet in the pic and look to see where the leak is for sure. if it is the metal line, and you are goin to go with the rubber hose make sure to use fuel injection hose, it is more woven and reinforced to prevent further issues down the road. good luck.

i think you can use the 2.2 manifold and i think it is all just plug and play except some minor ac and ps connections if you are using the entire motor. you dont want to use pre 95 because they have no egr. 95 is ideal because it is dual port and you can use your stock manifold from your 2.5. unless it is a great deal i dont think i would go with a jdm, ej22s are a dime a dozen. and as a matter of fact my 87k motor will be up for grabs soon because i am gonna be using the 2.5 from my 96ob parts car in mine.

dont waste your time, replace the rack. i have not seen anyone rebuild or reseal a rack in about as long as i have seen anyone rebuild starters ps pumps or alts.

what section of the three lines are leaking? the lines actually pass all the way through the interior from the firewall all along the door sills and then pass through on a sedan under the rear seat. and then from there there are jumper flexible hoses that lead to the pump. if it is a strong smell inside the vehicle and if you pulled the seat up and have visible leakage inside the car then you are going to need to replace the entire hard line from outside the fire wall to the rear seat.

if it is a 92 and you are lookin for junkyard axles you will have to check the diameter of the splines on your outboard shaft, you fall near the change over from small to large. the only thing to look for on a jy axle is that the boots arent toen, other than that they hold up well. i would agree on first checking the price of a new or rebuilt though, normally they can be had for 40-60 bucks.

did you put fluid back in? and if so does it still make the noise? if it isnt making the noise anymore after fluid i would just keep drivin it.

its not gonna work without major wiring changes, the connectors at the top of the bell are completely different. and as of the search reults you spoke of was it just a couple numbers that matched? because even from one year to the next they almost never stay the same, there are a few numbers/letters reused such as the ones ending in AAAA

i just picked up a 92 legacy ss and they told me the trans was slipping. i trailered it home threw a battery in it and took it out for a ride. it seems to have some boost issues that i have to look into, and the trans doesnt slip what so ever, it justs hangs in gear and bounces off the rev limiter if you jump on it, if you baby it it just shifts late. i guess the two probs together they interpreted as slipping. anyone have any ideas on the hanging in gear.

also make sure you thorougly clean the hub before the rotor is mounted and inspect the back side of the rotor to make sure it is free of debris.

i just had the same thing happen the other day when i was doing 2.5 phase one gaskets. i hed the car on the lift and it was manual trans so i put a jack stand under the trans to line everything back up and upon doing so i overstretched the axle and popped it out and didnt notice it till i tried to jump on it. just popped it back in and it was good to go. if you want to be safe, do as they said and pull the stub shaft out completely and see if the sur-clip is still there, most likely it will be. and yes you will get a little drippage of gear oil if this happens. i see it didnt take long for you to want to get them in, how does it look? i will keep you posted on the cold weather mirrors too. good luck.

could also be mass air

i agree, i would check your resistance at the plug first, just to be sure. after that pull the rear section off and check the clutches. i dont know if i would go the route of a whole new trans, i have a extra rear section if you need one.

if the return hose is cold you have a blocked core, the hoses the go to the firewall go directly into the core, so there isn't any type of heater control valve.

i would try replacing the whole latch and actuator assembly, i just had the same issue and it fixed the problem

i second the rad. removal, it makes things alot easier. if you can handle a cam job on a windsor or mod. motor in a stang you should have no prob. with this task. get a good manual and you will be set. good luck.

i am done with you. its just not worth arguing with a self proclaimed know it all. and for your info i have done this swap 3 times before, not just saying i am going to do it.

i flipped because you are telling me basically that i am an idiot for swapping the car to manual, that is what i want the car to be and if i can get an entire car with everything i need with a more reliable trans for a car i plan on keeping. so what if its a days worth of work, i appreciate your input but not your approach to the way you gave it.

and now that thats done, how long can you actually run them in fwd? i have heard many opinions on this, in case for some crazy reason it isn't worked out today. i don't know for sure how soon i am going to be able to do the swap because i have vacation coming up and i want to use this one because it is my best mpg car. today i am gonna swap the filter, new fluid and swap the rear housing for one on a core trans at my buddies shop.

did you not read a freakin word i wrote before you spazzed out?????????? i said temporarily i am goin to change the fluid and put in a filter. and also what is so hard about swapping, worst case scenario the rear ratio wouldn't match and i would have to drop the rear too, and also I WANT THE CAR TO BE MANUAL eventually anyway!!, if you didn't read that either. eventually the car will 22t bottom with dual cam heads or a 20t swap, and i don't quite think i am gonna run a scrap-omatic setup behind that. you act like its the end of the world to do a swap so what, its a day of work and another parts car that only cost $500 bucks!

i would rather the car be manual. untill i get the chance to do the swap though i am gonna rip it apart tomorrow and take a look at the clutches change the fluid and filter and throw some lucas in it. if the clutches look toasty i am gonna swap the tail with another trans i have sittin around. i figure its gotta be a clutch issue with the process of elim. the electronic end of it is doin its job and ohms out ok, so the only thing possibly left is in the clutch pack. i have dealt with this issue before just not as bad as what this one is doin. is there anything i am overlooking that anyone can think of before i tear it apart?

the tires are all the same size. i actually just went to look at a wrecked 97 legacy with a manual so it looks like its gonna be swap time!!

az and advance will both do it for free and give you a printout with all stored codes

i am having some anoying trans issues. the problem is that it seems like the car has torque bind. i have put an ohm meter to the connector and the duty c has the same resistance as my outback that has a new solenoid. i was thinking then that the rear clutch pack might be toast and welded itself together, but if i put the fwd fuse in you can take a turn and the bind goes away. and also occasionally you will get some clunking in a tight low throttle turn, which is prob. tied in with the torque bind.