xrturbo

get a new bearing, almost everyone i have done has blown apart when you go to press it out. i wouldnt chance it on the roll pin, the last thing you need is depending on which side for it to come out and on its way around snag the o2 wire or something.

420 is normally the cat. subarus tolerances with the o2 readings for this are sooooo tight. just when it will start to read a difference in catalyst efficiency it will throw the light.

about the only way you are gonna be able to tell is an air holds valve. you can hook it up like a compression tester and hook your air hose up and listen for air leaks through the intake and exhaust. i hate to be the one to sh** in your cheerios but the same exact car i tore down on thurs was slightly hit and nothing even came close to touching the cam covers and some how from the impact or something it broke the drivers side exhaust gear. and now the heads are at the machine shop with 4 bent valves.

that site is the best. and the best part is you are normally not getting robbed because you can pick your best price

one easy way is car-part.com. they have a built in hollander interchange and it will list by the part you picked what will work.

i dont know anyone that personally did it but there are no 2 engines that are more closely related than the ej18 and 22, if you look at them side by side you cant even tell the diff. just go with one as close to your year as possible, of course dont use 90-94 leg.

if you have all of the bolts out of the flywheel/flexplate you should just be able to wiggle it off, if not tap it with a hammer to free it up. the crank bolt just hit with a 22mm on an impact and wiggle the balancer loose, same thing if it is stuck tap it with a hammer. i always just put the tensioners in a vice and pin them, i have done it a million times like that and had no problem. and do not forget to put lock-tite on the crank bolt!!!!!!!!!

oh well, to me it wasnt that important

what does that equate to in miles? it doesnt seem that high. we have cars at my work with 400,000+ miles on the clock that still run.

the phase II has alot of electrical gremlins. i have been dealing with a few lately with map sensor problems and some other stuff

did you remember to put the cam sensor bracket back on, i have seen people do that a couple times

the pumps change just about every year. the only thing in the system that might interchange are the wheel sensors which get knocked out alot when a bearing fails

in the 95-99 body style legs the 2.5 dohc motor ran right to 99. the 2.2 switched for 1 year in legs in 99 when it became the phase 2 design (there aren't a whole lot of them out there)

what about an svx swap? i dont know what you are putting it in but they are cheap, can be found easy, and run forever.

this isnt one of those riddles where noone was really on the train to begin with..... is it??

you stated in the original post they told you it was the condenser, and then you said about the clutch on the condenser..... is it possible you are missunderstanding what they are telling you? and that maybe the noise is a wind whistle through the condenser? the condenser is the radiator looking thing in front of the radiator. not trying to make you look stupid or anything, but it would clear up confusion....

i agree with above method. i always just stick a pryparbehind the axle and rest it on a bolt head on the flange and give it a quick pop.

Just wanted to give a heads up to newer subaru owners especially 95 and up legacy's. I work at a shop that we sell, service, and parts subarus and I run the parts end of the business. I am starting to see a huge increase in fuel filler neck sales. What happens is the sheild that is supposed to protect the filler neck traps mud and all kinds of debris and then retains water and rots out the bottom section of the filler neck. My personal remedy for mine was to cut a window in the lower most section of the sheild, but other options would be to remove it. I will post pics when I think to get my car on the lift and take my camera to work. Just with gas prices and everything it would suck to pull up to the pump, start fillin and loose half of what you are putting in all over the place.

remove the caliper, than bracket, remove rotor, where the cable goes in to the rear of the hub there will be a little clip you can pop out with a small flat screwdriver, pull the hold down and return spring off the shoe closest to the rear of the vehicle, when you pull the shoe out you will see the cable hanging on the lever, slide the spring back a little with a needle nose and slip the cable off and pull it from the backing plate. just did my like 1000th one yesterday and it still nice and fresh in the mind:headbang:

that is funny that i just jumped on now and saw this on my lunch break. i just got done doing a rear hub assembly on a 97 obw. all the other wheels spun but that one, i just gave it a helping spin and a little gas while it was on the lift.

damn!!!!, i am looking at all these drilling posts and noticing something in common on location. i completely dismantle subarus everyday at my job and never once have i encountered drilling on any suspension bolts. and they say they use harsh road chemicals in pa and nj.......

what always works for me is an air hammer with a pointed tip

heat always helps, but if it keeps popping off i would try a better socket and breaker bar. i always work without air at my garage that isnt finished and can always find a way without it.

i normally use blue, it didnt look too bad. just do that little check i was talkin about, so that way you dont go through it again with your new pulley.

do you mean with a new pulley? i wouldn't put that one back on. you will find out when you get the new pulley if the keyway is ok. try to set the pulley in place by hand and make sure it goes flush and try to tuen it back and forth without the bolt. normally the threads don't get screwed up.