xrturbo

when it loosens, the wobble in the pulley at the least will mushroom the key. and if you completely pull the pulley off and inspect the back side of it you will see the area around the key slot will be all chewed out. because of all these factors the pulley will continue to loosen, and in real bad scenarios i have seen people loose motors becasue it will oblong the crank snout and then its done for.

dude, i guaruntee your keyway is trashed. the only thing you can do is pull it apart to the point of the timing cover coming off and the crank gear needs to come off. i got lucky enough one time that with a new balancer i was able to file the keyway back into shape and put the new balancer on. but you will deff need at least a new balancer.

best bet is find a 95 2.2 and it doesnt get any easier, if you get a later motor get the exhaust manifold with it due to the single and dual port change.

i used to run an advance and we carried perfection clutches at that time and i beleive they still do and the best way i could describe the clutch kits is P.O.S.!!! at my current job we only deal with subys and all we install is sachs, never had a problem. they are a little on the pricey side but they work nice.

i got an apexi off ebay brand new for 175. i will be doing my ej22-ej25phase1 motor and 5spd trans swap as soon as i am finished with the 325is i picked up. i will respond when done if you are still looking at that point.

i'll put a 3rd or 4th or whatever i would be in that my 1.8 impreza was pretty much the same powerwise as my 95 leg. 2.2.

it does seem a little high. just play the game, go in with comparisons from other dealers. and also i would deff. use the clutch issue as a big bargaining tool, a dealer isnt going to want to pull the trans, and if you feel like doing it you could save a bunch of cash.

any except the phase 2's will run forever

i just threw away a bad one today, i wish i would have taken a pic.

i am not completely sure, like i said it is a diff plug setup. from what my boss tells me (so dont quote me on this) if you notice the car has no mass air, he said that sensor also determines airflow along with normal frunctions of oxygen measurements and heating.

they arent gonna work for his style of sensor. of yours is the one i am thinking of it has that flip lever clamp that holds the connector together, it is a completely diff animal than any other you have seen. i dont know alot else about it except is seems to be the new expensive subaru issue that can cause a ton of drivabiltiy problems without throwing a light. we have done a couple so far at work, one last week on a forester and another on an RS that i swapped.

i was thinkin the same thing about the cruise actuator, maybe try pulling its vacuum or plug (whichever its running). does it run fast to redline? because i cant see the iac being able to pass enough air to peg it to redline quickly.

not at all, you no strut bearing in the rear for one and therefore no ability to turn. plus they are diff. lengths and not at all the same

cool, i will give that a try. so far i havent done a single thing except throw a battery in it to run it up and down the street.

i mean it is goofy just by its design in comparison to other designs.

no, only under wot

possibly the o2 because in those years they had that goofy o2 sensor with the air flow meter. we just had the same issue last week in an 02 forester.

what is the year and model of your car? i just picked up a 92 ss and it does the same thing with hanging in gear and bouncin off the rev limiter. i might have to give the tcu a try, i havent messed with it since i picked it up.

Forgive me if this is the wrong spot to post this, but i was just curious if anyone is going to the w&l subaru shootout on sunday at numedia dragway. I am going up with my boss. We were gonna run an RS that we just finished but someone bought it the day i finished throwin the motor back in. We were gonna sticker it up with the shop name to help get our name out there but there goes that idea.

i replaced a cat in a used 97 ob at work last week and a customers 98 GT, one broke up, the other went into meltdown.

i am pretty sure that is the code of death, the most expensive code that can pop up.

the funny part about that is that they will all tell you that but the way most auto stores history systems work they cant tell if you purchased one of not. for ex. i ran an advance auto store for a couple years and if you purchased those 2 parts sep. the pump would flag for cust info and the strainer wouldnt. so if anything happens you could just tell them you bought if but not at the same time and there is nothing they could do about it. just gotta know how to work their system.

i agree with where nipper is goin, sounds like an issue i had with water trapped in between the plug and boot. try pullin the plug wires and see if the tip of the boot is wet. you dont have any type of cai on the car do you?

you could do that, but it would be pretty pointless to do if your parts are still good. it is a gamble either way.

anyone ever run an apexi header? i just picked a brand new one up off ebay for a decent price and was just curious if anyone had any experiences with them. i picked it up because i am doing my 2.2 to 2.5 phase 1 and auto to manual swap hopefully starting next week (time permitting).