xrturbo

anyone know if the rear clutch setup and duty c with housing is interchangeable between a 95 legacy ls 2.2, and a 97 outback wagon are compatable?

The car is a 90 loyale turbo 1.8L. The car will start and will run with rough idle for 10-15 min and then shuts down. It still has spark and fuel pressure. And when you put a noid light on the injector harness it looks like the light is too brite when running but the noid light will not light if the car shuts down. And when the car shuts down if you check with a test light you have power on both leads of the inj. harness. I was told it could be the injector resistor, is this possible?

2.5 gts have em, i have a couple myself

there are two sets of connectors up inside the dash one set green and the other black if i remember correctly. you need to connect them and it will flash the codes through the cel. get a manual before doing this, they tell you where the connectors are located and which ones to plug in. advance will have the manual, its a haynes titled computer trouble codes.

i just got a lifetime warr. axle at advance for 59 bucks and it actually looked like new joints on the one i got.

not sayin its the right thing to do but i had a dumb rump roast move too when on the final step of head tightening i looked at the wrong spot on my torque sheet and wound up going 180 then 180 on the final tightening. i backed it off and re-torqued and that was 2 years ago with no issue.

i just did mine the other day. the pin and shaft sit in where you think they would, and the spring kind of hooks behind the fork at the top and the bottom holds tension against the bottom of the case. if i go back down to my parts car soon i will try to get a pic.

does anyone have good pics of a lifted 95 of newer legacies? i have a couple parts cars and i can deff. put one together as an off road beater.

the wiring is all internal with the exception of at the harness at the top of the trans. if you already have the rear shaft out why dont you just replace the solenoid, its already a quarter of the job. i just did mine yesterday and it took me an hour and 45 mins to do. just drop the rear cat and the trans crossmember, pull the rear housing bolts and pull the tail section off. when you pull the section down be carefull not to tear the wire. i just used the whole rear section with the clutches and everything from one of my parts cars, i just put the car back together and i didnt want to take a chance on the old clutches. any questions pm me.

im in allentown and i have a couple full exhaust systems. pm me if you still need.

the way i do mine is take a silver sharpie marker and mark all of your cam pulleys and ref. points on the belt so you are right on where you were when you took it off.

i just got done throwing another 2.5 in a 97 legacy outback wagon. everything seems to be good and running ok. the only thing that seems to be an issue is that when you are going slow (pulling out or backing up) it seems like a 4x4 pick up locked in 4wd, by that i mean it kind of bucks like all of the wheels are trying to turn at the same speed. my only other awd suby was my 93 impreza and it never felt like that. am i worried about nothing or is this an issue?

i have done a couple and pulling the motor is deffinately the best route. i would also agree about the thermostat point.

bumppppp

best way to make more power for cheap and easy is find yourself a donor turbo legacy. i know i see them on the board in my area wrecked for under $1000 and then you get all kinds of other nice upgrades for your car to swap from the donor.

i purchased a 94 legacy wagon auto 2.2L, that the pass front axle shaft exploded and tore the splined shaft from the front diff/trans. i have a trans sitting from a 97 legacy L wagon parts car, can i just throw this trans in? or if i cant just swap the trans can i use that diff. on the other trans? if i can use the diff and not the trans is there a gasket in between and is there anything i should know before tearing it apart? thanks.

im thinkin the same thing as where northguy is goin........throwout bearing is probably going.

i had the same issue on my 93 impreza l 1.8. i got lazy and didnt feel like doin the timing belt so i let a local garage do it and they never fully tightened the crank bolt. i pulled the balancer and the key was mushroomed so i took a file to it lined it up cranked it back down and its still good 8mos. later.

what was the code he actually pulled?

wish i could have left the converter and trans in the car. i dont know if anyone has dealt with a locked motor but i actually had to take a sledge hammer and smash out sections of the block with the converter hangin on the back of the motor in order to even get to 2 of my conv. nuts. luckily when it locked it stopped with one of the nuts perfectly lined up in the little access window, so at least somethin kind of went right.

doh! i just cleaned out my inbox this morning.

sounds like a head gasket to me. $1200 sounds steep at those prices you would probably be better off with a good used motor.

i will give it one last try and then i will see what happens. it was kind of one those last things you did before leaving the garage for the evening and rather than gettin all mad i figured id just come in and research it. thanks for the offer, i will let you know. thanks again!

i spun it but it just wont drop in. i am very familiar with how it would normally be done some transmissions it even needs to drop in a couple steps but this one isnt goin in.

my 93 awd L wagon went and is still goin at 180,000 and is just startin to use a little oil.