xrturbo

Take it from a Ford/Subaru guy, stick with the Suby. I have heard many bad things about the X type. Although a not to distance purchase for my is going to be an S Type, an R would be real nice but don't think I am gonna quite be able to swallow the price tag.

I just checked a phase 2 2.2 that we did yesterday and it doesn't have the cam support o ring that the 98 and earlier did. The valve cover gaskets are cake to do on those cars. Just make sure you get the spark plug pipe seals with the gasket.

I am running 205/75/15 in General Grabber AT2's on my 96 outback, and I had them on my Outback spring/strut lifted 92. That is about the extent you are gonna get under out of the OB suspension. I was told that the forester wheel have a little more offset that the legos but haven't confirmed this. I wouldn't run anything bigger than a 15 inch wheel. If you are going for the lift look you don't want to loose to much sidewall, if you go with anything bigger it will be a lower profile and it will end up looking like a matchbox car

I was thinking the cam support cover on the back of the head as well but this is a 99 with the phase 2 2.2.

Find a 96-99 legacy outback. There are spacer blocks on both the front and rear crossmembers where they bolt to the body. You may also notice some tow issues on the rear, I would also change the mounting brackets where the lateral rear control arms meet the body and in you are doing the c/member spacers run the outback front control arm brackets (that aluminum part with the bushing in it) as well.

I am doing another set of HG's this time on a 99 and that also has the holes, along with the nipple on the plug wire boot that drops into the hole.

DOH!!!! I was trying out the new camera for this.....but I didn't format my card first!! The pics can be viewed on the camera but it tells me it wants to erase the card in order to format. I will find a way to make this work. The car is actually really nice and its a Limited so it has all the bells and whistles. I got the motor out last night and disassembled it and got the heads back from the machine shop at lunch time today. I reassembled it tonight and will drop back in tomorrow night. I took plenty of pics with some helpful tips for the noobs looking for things to watch out for. We will get this thing back on the road and reliable yet!!!! It is deffinately worth fixing...trust me. It is just one of those scenarios of someone trying to hide things from the unsuspecting buyer including use of block seal to try to cover up the HG issue. I am gonna help Scott try to reclaim some of the investment and I will be putting together the pics and I will personally state everything I found wrong with pics....... hopefully

You could do the sep plate in a good evening. I don't think I would wait for the trans to go to do the work.

The 93 is not EGR!!!!! If your car is an auto trans your 95 will be EGR and the 93 no matter what isn't

I would deff do the sep plate soon. Are you getting a P0420 code?

The GT's were 16 inch wheels. You are probably right with the reasoning, more grunt for the larger outback tires, and a little more snot for the GT.

4.44 is an auto gear ratio in the US

Take our word it doesn't use a bolt there. Look at your spark plug boot (assuming they are sube wires) they have a nipple that actually drops into that hole.

2 cam seals, 1 crank seal,2 intake gaskets,2 exh. gaskets,1 oil pump o ring,2 valve cover gaskets with 4 spark plug tube seals and 12 (if I am thinking correctly...its early) washer grommets. This would be the minimum you should do. Also reseal if metal or get a new sep. plate (assuming he is pulling the motor). Inspect all of the idlers and tensioners. How many miles do you have on it? You may also want to think about a new knock sensor and front O2 sensor if anywhere near 100,000 miles. AND MAKE SURE LOCKTITE IS USED ON THE CRANK BOLT!!!!!!

I think they are 4.11s. That trans is the same as the 99-01 RS trans.

Personally I wouln't be scared of a used trans. they barely have any issues in that year.

Hey, watch it!! You guys should have both broke down closer to Allentown, all kinds of Suby specialists up here: Weddes Auto (where I work), Area 1320, Kars etc.... we are all Suby people!

A few things normally cause this:knock sensor, MAF (which I have had a few bad ones that wouldn't throw a code for a long time) and also check your charging system!!! My dads 95 L 2.2 was just doing this and there was a little corrosion and one of the terminals was cracked. He went and got some of the gold terminals and we slapped them on quick. He called me when he got home and said it was smooth as can be and it was like someone put NOS to the car from how it had been driving.

Wish it was just a little closer, I'd give it a good home. It would fit nicely in our lifted crowd up here in Allentown.

Don't give up on it just for that!!

Are you 100% sure you put all of the buckets (lifters) back in the exact location they came from?

I would call around on this. The flat rate on that job I don't think is much more than 4 hours without transfer of parts. So you figure maybe $70 an hour you are looking at $280 + fluid, I am sure that will beat the tow bill home.

For some reason those are only in the 96 VC's, the ones that say four cam on them. They are also the only ones that take that style spark plug wire.

And in case you haven't pulled the motor to do them, try it. It turns out soooo much easier.

The main question here is are you doing the HG's with the motor in or out of the car. If in the car deff. pull the intake. If out of the car don't waste your time pulling the intake. Just unbolt it from both heads and use a block of wood or something to hold the intake up out of your way while you R&R the head. I can't tell you the last time that I saw someone that has done these more than one time take the intake off. I personally can't even tell you how many I have done. Alot of times you can wind up doing more harm than good disturbing the hoses and connections under the intake.