xrturbo

Those things are awsome. I have a few customers that just drive them hard with well over 200,000 miles and neglect them sooooooo bad and they just keep running.

If your car is a 2.2 you can use the newer one peice style cat. The 1.8 cats have a 45 degree rotated flange for whatever reason. It doesn't sound like you want to spend alot of money on this ( who could blame ya), just throw an 18mm non fouler in between the O2 and the bung on the rear O2. I am running this on a 96 outback with no cats and have not gotten a CEL. If you do run the newer style cat it may have both O2 holes up front, just unplug the extension harness for the rear O2. You will see it at the top of the bell housing. It just acts like an extension cord.

I wouldn't be so quick to get worried about the gear or sensors. I have never encountered that problem after doing at least 10 99 speedo heads.

Takin any pics as you go along? Just curious to see what it looks like. I need some ideas myself. I am starting to get annoyed driving the 95-99 body style legos.....they are so blah interior wise. Especially driving customers 00-07 subes during the day, jumping into my 96 OB hurts

I have done it a few times. The reason I used the TCU with the trans is because it was stated to do so on the Hollander interchange I use. They drove and shifted perfect. You would be fine either way.

99 were deffinately problematic. I think if might be one of the only heads most sube dealers stock. I get parts requests at the shop for them and I know I have close to 10 of them in the yard and I won't sell them used.

OMG NOOOOOO!!!!!! Do not just change the doors!!!! It is a couple of ten and twelve mm nuts and bolts!! At worst you just need to loosen the window regulator from the inside mounting. This can be done in about 20 min. When you pull the panel you will see two holes that you can roll the window (or lack there of) down to that point and then you have access with a 10mm socket on an extension to the two ten mm nuts that hold the window to the reg bracket. Just pull those and then remove the old nubs that used to hold your window just reverse procedure for the install and just make sure the glass goes into the guides.

I would go with an OE used unit before an aftermarket. I used to run an Advance Auto and I can't tell you how many Suby alts. we would get back for warranty claims. Now I work at an all Suby shop and we have had two Outbacks this past year with aftermarket remans that shot all the way to 22-24 Volts and fried speedo clusters, ABS module, ECU, battery, airbag module and more.

That should be interesting. After reading this I went down stairs to my stock room and started looking at din pockets,mounting brackets, and HVAC controls. It should look sweet! The angle on the HVAC controls should work pretty nice to be mounted low. Looks like you will need to trim the tabs off of the side of the control panel or create new mounting in the dash for them. I know the RS guys do this sort of thing all of the time. Take pics!!!!

I am pretty sure you can interchange the two transmissions that year if you swap the TCU. You would also have to change the speed sensor.

I don't know for sure that they carry them but try rockauto.com. Why KYB? Out of all of the aftermarket struts out there they are one of the worst I have ever run, and I was never impressed with the life of the stock KYB's on the subys.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/rhamersly/album/576460762404710897 The pics of the struts are the rears. I used OB struts and springs and 205/70-15s. If the pics don't come up right away you need to click the tab on the right that says select and then this page.

Install is straight forward. You will just have to swap the rear strut mounts for some early style ones. On the rears you might want to see if you can smack the area in on the body a little where the lower spring perch would sit. I had issues going over curbs and rocks with noise in the rear from the spring seat hitting the body.

Is your car a 2.2 or 2.5????? If it is a 2.5 you need to use the 2.2 intake to put a 2.2 in. And if you are swapping from 2.5 to 2.2 don't use the early 90s 2.2. You will have to make too much work. Along with you having a non EGR car which won't fly in PA emmisions.

The ealy motor is not EGR but if your Outback is a 2.2 Manual you don't have EGR anyway. And also I just got a 96 Outback 5 speed with a 2.2. Why do you guys want one soooo bad? The 2.2? I guess if that was the case you would love to hear I just built a 2.5 for it:lol:

I have found that that you can normally dump the crossmember forward enough and leave the rear 2 bolts on by a couple threads. This will help a little for the laying on your back on the ground method for reassembly as you do not have to fight get it to line back up.

Yes it would be. That engine is kind of rare, one of the harder ones to obtain. They were only used from 99-01 in the Impreza and 99 in the Lego before everything went to the EJ25. And for some reason the cars with this motor are the worst I have experienced with electrical gremlins and then availabilty of parts such as ECUs.

I would have it done with a flush machine with no chem. If you are having any issues at all there is an additive that we run with our machine: Lube Guard Shudder Fix. It comes in a tube.

Might be a good idea to see if you can get this thing on a lift and run it on the lift. Sometimes poking around that way can keep you from pulling your hair out trying to track it down.

Sounds like a belt.

There is no way you compare current Jaguar to Lucas electronics Jaguar. I have a friend with a V12 jag. He bought the car not running. The ignition system would have taken $1200 to get just that prob corrected, so he wired up 2 GM ignition modules and made his own setup. You couldn't rely on a pre ford jag to make to the end of the block if your life depended on it.

I am amazed how of how many open minded responses were posted on this. As soon as I saw this thread I was expecting every post to be bash fest. I think that is the reason I like this forum so much. If you would have posted this at nasicrap.com (NASIOC) there would have been just a bunch of speds responding with negative answers completely unrelated to the question.

Don't throw wheel bearings into the equation, I am sure that is a low mileage issue with alot of Sube owners around here:grin:

Pan gaskets rarely leak, along with rear main seals. I would consider doing the HG's though, especially with how easy they are on the SOHC cars. I was never a fan of the additives.

I know people are going to call me crazy here but do you happen to have any engine oil leaks other that the sep plate to address? The reason I ask is that if you are doing it on the ground sometimes it can be less stressful to pull the motor vs the trans. I often prefer to do clutches that way, on foresters and outbacks you can pull the engine without ever jacking the car up.