Warp3

Just so I'm clear, it has to be from a FWD car regardless of which of the three models you choose for the donor struts, right? Also I'm assuming this is strictly due to the differences in the rear struts as the front struts are identical between FWD and AWD models (on the Impreza/Legacy at least). I've been considering this conversion myself as I have a set of 15x7 Raceline RL-7s that would look great on my RX!

FYI, the 5/16"-18 adjustment screw from the instructions was WAY too small for my application. I'm guessing the 1/4" NPT parts they used in those directions had much thicker walls than the ones I had (I got mine from the plumbing department, not air tools, so maybe that's the difference). My suggestion would be to buy a 1/4" BUSHING (instead of a male-to-male coupling per the directions). It's basically the same thing you are going to make out of the coupling, but already has part of the work done for you and costs almost the same price (you don't have to hacksaw one connector off as it only has one connector to start with and it's already tapped partway through on the inside making the tapping step go MUCH faster and easier). Then go to the hardware section and find out what thread the inside is of the bushing is and buy that thread bolt and nut combo. I ended up using a 3/8"-24 on my MBC (since I ended up using a bushing that came with one of my Autometer gauges that was already tapped for that size).

FYI: power frameless windows seem to seal better if you raise them THEN close the door (as the motors have trouble overpowering the rubber weatherstripping at the top of the window). In fact, if you roll up the windows then open the door and hit the up switch again, the window will usually rise another 1/4" or so. I've gotten in the habit of rolling up the windows then closing the doors before washing the car as it seems to seal much better.

I and some others on this board, built ours based on these instructions (with some minor variance for parts fitment/availability). http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html The parts list on this page is pretty much identical to the one that Scrub2k listed above.

The reasons I'm going with a stock WRX bypass valve (instead of an atmospheric BOV) on my car are: 1) Any bypass/blowoff valve in general is a good idea to prevent pressurized air from reversing through the turbo (when the throttle plate slams shut) and thus shortens its life (and this also slows the turbo which causes more lag). 2) A bypass valve doesn't make the infamous BOV "pssshhhh" noise, which makes for a much better sleeper effect. 3) For some reason, MAF cars get particularly annoyed when some of the air they just measured gets fired off into the atmosphere and nobody informs the ECU of this fact...LOL 4) Since the bypass valves recirculate the air instead (by releasing it back into the system between the MAF and the turbo inlet), it actually keeps the turbo spooled better than an atmospheric setup.

I'm in if my cams are installed in the Impreza by then (and they better be...LOL)! Hmm...maybe I can get a friend to help me get both Subarus down there that day...hehe

Dang ricers... j/k Steven Of course, I'm putting a hood scoop on my RX, but that's for function since I'll be feeding a TMIC with it. Any appearance enhancement is merely coincidental...LOL

Well I just ordered a new PCV valve today from the dealer...hopefully this will do the trick...thanks for the advice, guys!

ROFLMAO

Hmmm...that's the AWD one right? I'd be really interested to know what the RS will put down once the cams are installed (and I can always dyno the RX locally on a 2WD dyno). As for when, anytime after the cam install...LOL (which could be in the next couple weeks depending on Dale's schedule)

I try not to, but it's just too tempting...LOL That's the plan. Not sure which vehicle we are taking yet though. Probably the Impreza, simply due to the fact that I don't know if I've owned the RX long enough to have deemed it "reliable" or not. LOL

I'm not sure yet... BTW, I'm actually hitting closer to 12psi on 4th gear runs on the interstate so I'll probably back it off a bit. This car freaking pulls like mad now! With mid-20 degree weather this morning, the engine was pulling like crazy and the tires had very little grip (plus remember I only have 1WD when I'm in FWD mode)...what a fun combo...LOL

I just realized a really cool perk available to me since I have a part-time 4WD car...easy dyno access...hehe (I'd still prefer the full-time 4WD system, given the other tradeoffs, though...LOL). The nearest AWD dyno from here is about 2-2.5hrs away, the nearest 2WD dyno is like 15 minutes from where I work...LOL

Ok well I tried it again this morning and it works fine...maybe I wasn't patient enough or something. :-\

Thanks everyone. Just to confirm the '86 EA82T has 3 "blowby" hoses (one from the block and one from each valve cover) but only 1 PCV valve (in the passenger side "blowby" hose below the intake tubing), right? The reason I ask is that I downloaded that '89 EA82 service manual, and the '89s also have the three hoses but the PCV appears to be in a completely different location.

What the topic says... My '86 RX runs fine, but if I push the dipstick back in, then go for a drive, the dipstick pops itself back up!? :-\

The boost controller is now installed! Muhahaha We first swapped out the plugs (all of which had the signs of running too hot ) with new NGKs (stock spec "6" heat range). Then ran the car to make sure that install went well. (Speaking of which, the plugs are much more accessible than those on my Impreza, but WTF is up with that freaking lip around the plugs making even thin-walled sockets too thick to use! ) Anyway she was running great (and boosting to about 6.5psi), so we came back and began the MBC install. Got it installed (with the valve set to about as tight as it can be and still be "blown" open by human lungs) and made a run...dead on stock (about 6.5psi). Stopped and turned the screw 1 full turn (3/16"-24 bolt so it has very fine threads)...now the car was hitting about 8.5psi! Woohoo! Stopped again and turned the screw 1 more full turn...woohoo...10psi...hey where did the power go...oh there it is...hey where did the...oh, yeah...overboost cut...LOL :-) Quick search of the USMB forums to find which plug to pull, yank the electrical connector from the overboost solenoid and make another run...spikes to 11psi then immediately drops to 10psi and holds in each gear...sweeeet After some WOT runs (mostly uphill) with 3 people in the car, the car was running a little hotter than usual (about 2/3rds of the way up the stock gauge but still not up to the red zone) but after about a mile of "civil" driving it was back to it's normal position (about halfway up the gauge). I'm planning to leave the boost set here (10psi) until I get my intercooler/BOV setup (stock WRX parts) and 180-degree thermostat installed then it's up to about 12.5psi. Does that sound reasonable (10 psi stock, 12.5 psi with a intercooler/bov/thermostat)? I'm also planning to eliminate the cat as I imagine it's quite clogged on an 18-year-old car with 183k+ miles on it...LOL :-) Booooooost LOL

I'll check it out and let you know the results...thanks

Ok...the reason i double-checked your meaning was that with some more expensive cars after the wipers are off for a few seconds will actually "park" the wipers (i.e. move them to a lower position than normal for aerodynamic reasons) and I was pretty sure the Subarus didn't do that...LOL :-) The only time it doesn't seem to return to the original position is if you turn the switch back off before the wiper is done with the sweep. (For example, if you turn to intermittent and leave it there it will make one full sweep and return to the normal position, then stop. If you turn to intermittent then turn back to off before the wiper cycle is done, it will do the same thing but stops a few inches short of the normally parked position.) I'm not sure if this is what you were talking about though? :cornfuzz:

I'm not sure I understand the question :cornfuzz:

Ok...the wipers on my '86 RX work great EXCEPT for the intermittent setting. If you flip it from off to intermittent, it wipes once and that's it, no matter how long you wait for the second wipe. The low and high wiper settings work perfectly fine, however. So my question is: What's the first thing I should check? Is there a relay somewhere that controls this function?

Well, after buying a couple more parts from Lowe's (a 3/8"-24 bolt and nut) and robbing and modifying some parts from an ink pen (the spring itself, plus I used pen parts to make a "sleeve" for the spring to keep it from flexing and binding inside the body of the MBC), my Manual Boost Controller is complete!!! Woohoo! To be on the safe side, the initial setting I chose is the maximum setting that I can still "blow" open. (Then after some research on the web, I've discovered that for the average human that's apparently only about about 1-2psi... ) So in theory when installed it should act as if it has no MBC at all until I start to turn it up.

Actually it's 15psi according to the website. I'm not sure exactly HOW it makes a difference, though. The way it's worded on the website, it sounds like it's only designed to "equalize" pressure when the MBC is closed and that due to its size would have little effect when the MBC is actually venting. Of course, it IS a DSM site, so maybe it's a workaround for a DSM-specific issue?

Right place, wrong direction...put the "ball bearing" end upstream.

ROFLMAO...who me?