Warp3

{crocodile hunter voice} Here we see the elusive Subaru XT attempting to crossbeed with a different species of Subaru...let's watch... {/crocodile hunter voice}

If it's like my 99 RS (and it should be) you don't have to remove anything else to remove the blower motor. When a fellow scooby owner removed mine (when I was having trouble with my HVAC fuses blowing...actually turned out to be the resistor pack later), he just dove under the passenger side of the dash, removed a few screws and down it came. (He is "pleiades" on this board, if you want to ask him for more details.)

I was checking out Summit Racing and Jeg's for pricing on the Accel Superstock coils (Summit is slightly cheaper, BTW) and noticed these: Summit Racing Street Coil - $16.95: http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=11&s=140&p=1811&searchtype=ecat Jeg's High Energy Coil - $16.99: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4738&prmenbr=361 The Jeg's coil looks like a dead-ringer for the Accel Superstock coil; the Summit coil looks a little more like the MSD Blaster 2 coil. The Summit coil doesn't mention being oil-filled (for cooling) but the Jeg's coil does (both the Accel and MSD are oil-filled). In fact, the description of the Jeg's coil sounds surprisingly like that of the Accel coil. With the voltage increase percentage that the Summit coil claims, it sounds more like it may be a Pertronix Flame-Thrower instead of an MSD or Accel coil. So does anyone have experience with either of these two coils? It's hard to beat the price ($11 less than the Accel Superstock).

Fumoto Oil Drain Valve (for the RX...my RS already has one) from my mom and a set of large Craftsman screwdrivers from my boss!

Not true...there ARE spark plugs with silver electrodes out there that are made to take advantage of silver's conductivity properties. The most well-known example is the Beru Silverstone (http://www.nology.com/silver.html).

Like I mentioned in my post above, some Subarus do come with Champions originally but I've never heard of Subaru dealers using anything but NGK for replacement plugs (and the part numbers for both brands are listed in the owners manuals regardless of which plug they originally came with).

The Justy RS also had slight different body trim than the base model Justy for a "sportier" look. For example, this is from the ultimatesubaru.org brochure pages for 1989: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Literature/brochures/1989-k.jpg The white Justy is an RS, the red Justy is a DL. Note the body color bumpers, body color grill, "RX" style side moulding, mud guards, etc. on the RS.

Good point...since the diff is open in the front it will send all the power to the non-existant axle...I'll still probably pull both thought and just hook up two stubs. Remember: the 85-86 RX models were Part Time 4WD, not Full Time 4WD. If my understanding is correct, PT4WD systems do not have center diffs and shifting to 4WD simply locks the front and rear diffs together acting like the equivalent of a welded center diff. This is why PT4WD is only designed to be used in 4WD mode when offroad or on slippery surfaces. The 1986 Subaru owners manual mentions the rear clutch-type LSD (so it was definitely available that year) and I believe that all the RX models came equipped with them standard.

Cool...once winter has passed here, I'm gonna try converting my RX to RWD (and I'll probably keep it that way until next winter). So do I need to get two "donor" axles and do this to each side or can I acquire a smaller part than the entire axle for this? I guess I need to call my local Subaru garage and see if he has any broken front axles on hand that will fit an '86 RX...hehe. Thanks guys.

Yes, but as was brought up in that test, the methodologies were abnormal (i.e. adding "dirty oil"...how do we know they all had the same amount of contaminants to start with), the testing period low (500 miles...many filters filter much worse after becoming clogged (ie. they allow too much oil to bypass filtering when clogged) and this issue may not show up in a 500 mile test) and more importantly the driving conditions were variable...perhaps the conditions were dustier during the Purolator test leading to more contamination in the system. Besides K&N's aren't exactly known for great filtration, they are known for flowing a lot more air (every test I've seen had paper and foam air filters well ahead of the cotton gauze type in actual filtering ability). The results under more controlled conditions with a paper or foam air filter might have been significantly different (though I do think that Mobil1 would have still won against the other direct replacement filters as they make great filters).

That leads me to a question I've been wondering about. The PT4WD system simply locks the two axles together, right (unlike the FT4WD and AWD systems which have VLSD center diffs)? So if I were to remove the front axles and shift into 4-Hi, would I simply have RWD? or are the front axles used for locating wheel suspension parts? I've been kinda wonder what my PT4WD RX would feel like in RWD (should be pretty fun with the clutch-type LSD in the back) and if it's that simple, I may give it a shot sometime (not permanently...though it would probably do better at autocross that way than it would in FWD mode (especially with no front LSD)). Oh and sorry to hear the bad news, dude.

As for filters I prefer the stock Subaru/Purolator filter for various reason (anti-drainback valve, good quality, etc.) but otherwise just avoid the real cheapies (Fram, STP, etc.) as they use lower quality materials and don't have as strong a construction (this is especially true on Subaru engines which run higher oil pressure than some other engines). I'm not sure how much I believe it, but my dealer has mentioned cases where some of the cheaper filters have literally exploded on Subaru engines due to the oil pressure. In fact, Amsoil filters are also great for this for one reason. They have VERY thick outer casings compared to many of the other oil filters out there. Personally, I'm currently running a Subaru/Purolator on my 2.5RS and a Bosch on my RX.

Motul is really good stuff too (thought not as cheap as the Mobil 1). Plus last I heard Motul is what the SWRT Rally cars run (or at least they have those decals on the car...lol). In fact, I'm currently running Motul in almost all the systems on my 99 2.5RS (except the Motul coolant...that stuff is too expensive...lol). I've got Gear 300 in the tranny (and will also be putting it in the rear diff next time I change it), Synergie 6100 10W40 in the motor, and RBF 600 in the brake system. I currently get my Motul products from Teague's Auto (also known as Boxer4Racing): http://www.boxer4racing.com Also, keep in mind that since synthetic oil flows easier it also flows through leaks easier. This is one of the reasons for all the "don't use synthetic on old engines" rule. If the car has a slow leak but they don't realize it with dino oil since it's thick enough to mostly stay put, then they switch to synth, suddenly the problem can be made a bit more obvious...LOL :-)

I use nothing but the NGK V-powers in my 2.5RS...it's the stock plug (well my car actually came with Champions (as did most, if not all, 2.5RS models) but most Subarus come stock with the NGKs and Subaru uses NGK for replacement plugs). (From what I've read, the reason for Subaru using Champions at all is some weird x% of U.S. content on imported cars law.) Besides, the Subaru World Rally Team runs NGK...

I've been wondering why my RX does that...looks like I'm not alone on this problem...anywhere between 65 and 75mph the speedo moves unbelievably slow. I've started to learn where the tach points in 5th gear for each speed just so I know how fast I'm actually going...I can drop 5mph and hold it then it's probably a good minute before the speedo finally drops that 5mph...:brolleye: I have learned that sometimes slapping the dash above the speedo helps...ROFL

Ok...just installed a brand new genuine Subaru PCV valve, reseated the oil dipstick, fired up the car and let it warm up, revved the car several times (enough to at least get a little boost going)...and...it popped up again!? :-\ I guess I'll take GLCraigGT's suggestion next and make sure all the PCV/blowby hoses are unobstructed and free of leaks. Any other suggestions if that's not the problem (before I try messing with the dipstick itself)?

Ok, I'm confused...Aluminum is perfectly fine for suspension parts, wheels, and aircraft but not for wheel spacers/adapters!? Please explain your reasoning as you've completely lost me... BTW, I just emailed them for info on pricing, shipping, ETA, adapter thickness, etc.

I know exactly what you mean, I have a feeling I'm going to end up wearing out one tire much faster than the other 3 on my RX (I'm running about 10-12psi right now)...LOL Cool pic, BTW!

I think it's a matter of having a newer Subaru introducing us to the world of Subarus and 80s scoobies make great 2nd cars...lol Why it is related to the east coast, I'm not sure... :-\ The RX is also my very first turbo car (that I've owned, not the first that I've driven) which is a bit of a new experience...I'm becoming a boost junkie very quickly...LOL

Agreed...if the lighter flywheel was always better, then they would come with lightweight ones from the factory. The reason I like mine so much, is that I autocross and it is absolutely great for that. If I were planning to offroad the car regularly, a lightweight flywheel would not have been on my mod list at all.

The cam seals are at the end of the cams. You have to take off the timing belt cover to get to them (which means you may as well replace the timing belts while you are in there).

Lightweight flywheels are great for rev-matching on downshifts. With a stock flywheel you usually have to punch the gas for a second for it to rev, with a lightweight flywheel you just tap the gas and the RPM shoots up...hehe Takeoffs are a little trickier but nothing you can't get used to after a few takeoffs (reverse moreso than 1st). Plus there is the obvious acceleration advantage due to lower rotating mass.

I've got a 9.5lb flywheel on my Impreza and absolutely love it...does no-one sell lightweight flywheels for the older cars?

So what about the rear? Can you use Impreza/Legacy struts there or do you use something else?

Actually, I've got a 1999 2.5RS that I'm the sole owner of and I've got a cam seal leak at under 60K miles. I'm starting to think that whoever posted "Subarus like to mark their territory" was dead on...LOL Personally, I'm using this as an excuse to upgrade cams....and when people try to remind me you can change cam seals without taking out the cams, I just politely ignore them and change the subject...LOL