2.5GL

It's still driving right? That means it hasn't reached complete failure. Pics coming soon, they are in the camera, waiting for the right 'puter to upload while at work... Lewis

This is my best guess, based on vintage alone.... Open door. Turn key on, engine off. Under dash, just behind hood release find a small black button, about the size of a nickel, with the actual button being about as large as a pencil eraser. Sometimes this is simply taped to the wire harness coming off of the keyless unit. Press and HOLD button until doors lock/unlock three times on their own. Continue to HOLD button. Press unlock button on all transmitters/key fobs while holding down black button, locks should cycle once for each fob programmed. Release button. Roll down windows, or take keys with you. Turn key off. Check for proper operation. GOOD LUCK! Lewis

You'll never need a pump, just reseal it with a new o-ring Pt# 10991AA001 and some permatex anerobic sealer. And get a new crank seal while you are at it, 806733030. (check/tighten screws holding on plate on the pump while off the car as well.) The only way the lifters would not be "solid shim" type is if someone swapped in a '95 2.5 (auto only) which was hydraulic. Valve adjust interval is 100,000 miles, I have had three different engines with burnt valves this year alone...2 DOHC, 1 SOHC. I can only hold suspect the lack of proper adjustment and/or too many long-overdue oil changes. Unless, that is, if anyone has any more insight. Lewis

No complete failure, just binding so bad that you can't stand your teeth rattling any more... L

Auto Zone has the lifetime parts warranty, for a reason... They hope you don't own the car for more than 5 or 6 months, or they'd go broke. All AZ parts I've seen need to be replaced at frequent intervals, intervals which you could almost set yer watch by.:-p Lewis

I can't get to it until tuesday, sorry... Lewis

but fun! especially if others are near by when I do it!!! L

header comes off, rear drive line comes out, tail housing comes off, unplug connector for solenoid c, set asdie, pry out the drive hub on the top of the trans, inspect teeth on hub, remove grooves as needed. R&R solenoid & gaskets, install. remember, as nipper said: "Make sure all the tires match and are equally inflated." TCU is under steering wheel to the left of the column. I can get pics by tuesday night if needed. Lewis

Speedometer goes tits up, I've replaced 5 so far ('99 model year Legacy Outback). Only replaced 2 "others" in the last ten years. Lewis

I never said anything about any "shortcomings", I just said, "don't get one!":grin: Lewis

Well, welcome to the USMB, good to have a suby owner back.... IMO: Don't get a 1999 Outback Automatic, regardless of milage. 2.5 engines are good. Yes, the head gaskets leak, if they have not been done, or done properly. After that, they are OK. I have a 98 Imp RS with 167k on the clock and no issues other than HG. 2.2s are better for reliability, longevity, and mileage. I see fewer 2.2s throwing rods than 2.5s, perhaps because those car owners understand the idea behind maintenence, and that it will save you in the long run?... 2000 and newer are good as well, Auto trans require more frequent flushes than earlier models. Rear wheel bearings seem to go out more on those constantly carrying a load (5-800 lbs. 24/7). These are nicer, and quiter, and the ride is better. They also have HG too, sometimes warrantied by the dealer up to 100,000 miles, if the "recall" has been done (stop-leak added). It really comes down to what you like and the price you want to pay. Get it checked by a subaru technician, and determine if the short-commings are resonable for the price and worth getting fixed after the purchase. Or negotiate price down....blah, blah... you get the idea. Lewis

Ditto. More in-depth: is this all the time, or intermittent? Any mods to the intake/exhaust? If it is all the time I would check to make sure the timing belt, more specifically, the timing relation between crank and cams is correct. With covers removed, all "marks" should point straight up and match the "notches" on the timing covers (cams) and the boss on the oil pump that holds the crank sensor (crank). If one of the cams is off a tooth it will upset everything, but still run. If it is intermittent, such as while driving, or passing, I would add the possibility of an air flow meter being the problem. If it is more frequent "off-the-line", or from a stop, I'd guess O2 sensor. Either way, a knock sensor is a good idea as well. Oh, and stop the fuel treatments, they could make it worse IMO, as gasoline is already a solvent (loosely defined, of course), and you never see anything built up where gas sprays...:-p plugged injectors are more of a filtering or mechanical failure issue. Double check that your CHECK ENGINE light works with the key on, engine off, if not, you should be checking codes, and figuring out why the light isn't on. ECU could be bad... It happens, but not often... Only when somebody tries to "Jump start" and connects the cables to the wrong terminals. Lewis

make sure the AT pan is not bashed in, it'll block off the sump, then no oil, then:dead: . Lewis

Quick fix: swap TCU for known good one... Get the part number off of yours, call dealer, get superceded part numbers, install any used ones that match the list, if you can find one... I choose this due to the intermittent FWD light, ect. (BUT, chances are with 200k plus you'll be doing solenoid "C"-see below, and you just might need the TCU as well.) IF no go, then R&R solenoid C, and remove "groves" on AWD clutch hub after removed from transmission, so the plates don't stick in the locked position. You could either grind 'em off with a small cut-off wheel or buy a new one. Sometimes the clutches are bad, about 1/100 in my experience. You'll need a transfer clutch solenoid, two solenoid gaskets, a "transfer case" gasket for the back of the tranny, two exhaust gaskets for header, 1 gasket for back of "Y" pipe (maybe), a drain plug gasket, about 6-8 quarts of ATF, and about 4-6 hours. ENJOY! Lewis

Automatic: pry bar in flex plate. Manual: brake adjusting tool in teeth of flywheel or similar flat stock that fits. -OR- 1. remove outer timing cover nearest the battery (LF) 2. roll engine over so left (driver's) cam is set to "9 o'clock" 3. take a 1/2" breaker bar w/ 7/8" 6 point socket, place onto crank pulley 4. set bar, if long enough, in front of battery, or extend reach with a pipe. 5. turn key "on" and "off" really quick 6. BANG! bolt should be loose.... and if you did it fast enough, your timing marks will all be set to their "12 o'clock" positions, or pretty close... NOTE: you might want to unplug coil wire prior to cranking so it doesn't keep on running if you don't turn it off fast enough. AND a 1/2" socket wrench may be more desireable. should the engine bump backwards, the wrench, by design, will just spin instead of flipping up and taking out your A/C line. B.T.D.T. While this obviously is not the "safest" way, it's quick, and does not require much effort on your part. And with some practice, a good time saver. Lewis

as in my first post, check the key warning chime wire. that constant beeping when the key is left in the ignition is controlled by a two lead wire directly from the ignition switch. the body of the plug is black and has two spade connectors in it fashioned as a "T" when you look into the connector. this is my 90% guess as to the cause of the light constantly flashing, given everything else is as it should be... This isn't a joke, I can scan in a copy of the TM (but that won't happen until tomorrow, if you need it. I'll check this post around lunch time) and that stupid plug is part of the seat belt system, and causes the light to blink when unplugged. Lewis

I stand to correct myself... the seatbelt control unit is located in the left rear quarter panel, just under the LR speaker in a astation wagon. Part numbers are 88013AA011 (metal) or 88013AA050 (green plastic) either will interchange with the other... Lewis

ABS control unit: under passenger seat. Seatbelt control unit: in trunk - sedan RR quarter panel - wagon - should be green in color. I can get more specific tomorrow, as we have a car similar to yours available... can get part numbers too. Let me know. Lewis BTW: does your warning chime sound with the key in the ignition in the on position with the engine off and the driver's door open? NO? Then remove knee bolster under steering wheel, plug in the two wire black connector coming from the steering wheel harness to the corresponding plug and you should be golden... if not, faulty ignition switch? $$$

To loosen in mid-sequence is to "crush" the gasket then release for a proper fit when tightened again. These are a multiple plate head gasket and require this prior to installation. The different spec for 1 & 2 woulb be something those little japanese guys across the pond gettin paid 6 figures a year decided was a good idea, and works... haven't seen a failure yet from this method.... Lewis

The story that I got was to change the filter (screw on type) if major (read: catastrophic) damage/failure has occured and the trans has been properly repaired... flush the pick-up screen for those earlier models. "They (Subaru) put a drain plug on it for a reason, to drain and fill... the pan should not be removed unless an internal service is being performed." Lewis

2nd O2 sensor should be back behind transmission, after second cat. However, if its a California car it may be on the back side of the first cat. I haven't looked under a 2.2 latley, but my 2.5 RS' is located after the second cat... Lewis That is the #2 sensor, look under the green DOJ axle joint, slightly right in the pic...

There are two ways to "look" at this... but first: remember that the O2 sesor is in the exhaust pipe as close to the front catalytic converter as possible after the engine, so.... from under the car follow the two exhaust "headers" coming from the "head", find where they meet, look above the pipe, behind cross member and there it is. OR... from the top, look to the left of the intake box that is hooked to the throttle body, look down, just in front of the axle, you'll see a wire coming up and is hooked into a holder bolted onto the lower bell housing, follow that wire down and there it is. you will need a 22mm wrench to fit, and it'll be a bitty gettin' 'er off Lewis BTW: don't use the chiltons as gospel, most non-suabru publications are not "correct" but may give someone with a clue where to go and what to look for if you are simply not familiar with that model but are able to turn a wrench.

How about heads from a WRX? would that be good? Just trowning that option in, I don't know about fit or operation, but it may be worth a look... anybody else know if it is a good idea? Lewis

Did you buy this car new? If not, it may be an aftermarket alarm. If no alarm "sounding" when opened w/o unlocking first, it could be set to "valet mode" in which the alarm ceases to function, retaining keyless features. If it is aftermarket, a car stero shop could change the setting for you fairly quickly. I unfortunately haven't been in an '03 Leg or O/B and remembered it locking, or having seen an Alpine system from the factory, in any year. Besides, I let the young punk at work mess with all the alarm @#$%, that stuff drives me nuts. I work on 'em with a wire cutter in hand. Lewis

Wrong device, wrong wires. Was the plug white in color? 4 wires? If yes, you swapped the fan power wires that come off of the fan resistor which gives you 1, 2, and 3 fan speeds. Look up and slightly right (maybe left, it's been awhile since I've been in one) you'll see a slender black device hanging off the box with a two or three wire black plug on one end, the other end has a wire that comes out and goes into the box through a hole at the seam of the top and bottom peices of said box. That black thing with the wire attached is the thermister or thermosensor whichever you want to call it. It can be replaced in the car w/o taking the box out.... Just remove as many screws as you can holding the top and bottom of the box together. Then, with some good, long, needle-nose pliers you can remove "probe" from fins of evaporator. Install new "probe" into the evaporator. You will, however, need to remove glove box, ect. to make easy access and working space.... Hint: if the probe is not in all the way, or in at all, say 1/4-1/2" away from evap, the A/C might blow colder if the rest of the system is tip-top. Just keep in mind that it could freeze up by doing that.:cool: Lewis