2.5GL

It has been said that the power steering fluid is specific to this car. I am looking for those who might know differently by actual product knowledge or by putting in something else and having it work OK. It has also been said that there is about 10 quarts left in the country from SOA. Is this true too? thanks Lewis

Whle I do beleive that this is a bit insane, and would rather swap an EJ motor into a brat, this should be fun to watch. Kudos to you for trying it, and I hope it all comes together for you, AND, bless your wife, mine would kill me.... Lewis BTW: how are the dimensions of the ER27 Vs. the brat engine bay???

Well, if it leaks again in the next few months, you know where to take it...Then he can do it for nothing.

running car w/o battery, even for a short time can blow diodes in your alternator, I've done it before...

Great! Just what I wanted to do. Drive an hour out of town to have him check it for me. The biggest question is... why hasn't the dealer fixed it yet? It has been in five times with no progress towards a solution, and where told to (Paraphrasing...) "pound sand, nothing can be done". So I guess off to another dealer to continue the saga.... Thanks for the input, I'll update as info comes along. Lewis

Here's the trick... how does one check trans codes w/o a Subaru Select Monitor? Best scenario I know of is to plug in the ground wire into the black 6-pin connector, place in "D" turn key off, on, shift down to "1" press accelerator to floor, release-holding half way, release completely, "AT TEMP" light flashes code... is this the prescribed method for an '05 Forester? I am doubting it at this point as Subaru is making it harder for those not in the dealer network. I will attempt to check them at this time, and will get back later.... Lewis

Check Engine light was on, Cruise light flashing, drove fine, checked codes, DTC P0700 (Transmission Control System [MIL Request]) was listed by a Snap-off scanner, and a palm pilot w/OBD II. Here is the fun part... the 05 model year book for Legacy AND Forester (dealer/factory service manual, section H4SO) say "refer to 4AT (D) diag" for diagnosis and repair, yet P0700 is not listed as a code in the Automatic Transmission book, it starts at P0705.... All I have found so-far on th' net is to R&R the TCU, but that leads me to ask "why?". Does someone out there have the diagnostic trouble-tree for this code? I am not looking for "the fix" (if you have it, that would be helpfull) I just want to diagnose for myself and repair as necessary, but don't want to whittle away my time banging my head against a wall... I may call in a favor to an old contact at a Suby dealer, but would probably have to drive there to have it hooked up to the "mother ship" but that just wouldn't be as fun as diving under their dash for ???????? Lewis

Depends on what you want to do.... Les Schwab has a good high mile tire: "Toyo-800 Ultra" 100,000 mile warranty, about $625.00 last time I checked They also have a "Toyo-Proxes TPT" which is more performance oriented so a 60,000 mile warranty is what they carry on those. America's Tire a.k.a Discount Tire have "Michelin" can't recall the passenger car model name but those have been good as well Costco has a similar Michelin as everybody else, but will be slightly different in design, so it will remain a costco exclusive tire, but price will most likely be cheaper. Then get some 15" steelies and mount some Bridgestone Blizzaks for winter fun. All these retailers are here and in CA too, so that may be a benefit as well? Lewis

I hate to say it, but it could possibly be burnt valves. Had one in last month with a constant misfire code for #3, replaced spark plug, injector, and spark plug wire, to no avail. Did a compression test and found that cylinder to be at 65 psi. Removed heads and inspected valves and the forward exhaust valve was indeed burnt. So, R&R valve(s) and HG and adjust lash, all was good... If a coil were to fail it would be front cylinders (1-2) or rear cylinders (3-4) It would be odd to have two injectors fail at the same time, so not to high on the likelyhood of that happening. Do a compression test, see what's going on inside the engine. For an extereme case, a leak-down test could be done to determine where the leak is after a compression test shows a low cylinder(s) Lewis

I am pleased with my 2.5, but as you know they require a bit more "love". Since you don't have the time & money to do HG on it, it sounds like the decision is made...2.2s are bullet proof, can't go wrong there-besides the economy is better.:-p

It will, like all things, get worse over time. First, is your AT TEMP light flashing at start-up? If so, check codes. I would suspect DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) #23 Which is duty solenoid "C". This solenoid is the one that sends power to the rear wheels. If faulty, it will typically defualt to to a locked position applying power to the rear at all times. If not, I would pull the tail section of the trans (transfer case) and inspect the top gear hub on the transmission (it can be gently pried out with a "lady finger" or similar prying tool) for wear into the leading edge of the teeth caused by the clutch packs (located in the "drum" that is connected to the output shaft and was either removed with t-case, or was stuck on the hub needing the inspection.) IF there is wear, a small cut-off wheel on a die grinder will smooth them out, thus allowing the clutches to release pressure in the low-speed turns instead of sticking and causing the bind. And I would probably replace the solenoid as well while you are there. If by some chance you have a TCU (Transmission Control Unit) that matches part number by a few digits (ex. 21611aa650 or 651, 652, 653, and so on up to 659, numbers within that 10 digit range are most often "superceding" numbers in a given model year and will work). you could swap it fairly quickly to eliminate the idea of a "control" issue. Other TCUs in similar models may work as well I have seen, in some cases where the trans took on water at some point. This will cause clutch packs to swell and then present a problem like yours. HOWEVER, the rest of the clutches in the tranny will follow causing more drastic shifting and drivability problems. Lewis

UH, don't think we're gonna make those numbers with this trip, guess we'll have to call it "small" then... HOOTERS still a "go" for everyone? See ya at 1:00 pm friday!! Lewis

Well, due to response, we may have to meet at the HOOTERS @ MALL 205.... Any votes for HOOTERS? Meet for lunch at 1:00? (we can't meet there and not go in and at least get something to eat, but then again, who actually goes for the food?) Leave at 2:00? Lewis

never seen the "applicator spray", but use the permatex anerobic stuff all the time from the red tube, and the sealant is red as well, smells sweet. Never had a leak, due to the sealant, that is.... Lewis

I would guess that the copper penny might be too crowded of an area... perhaps a jump up the highway to mall 205? The parking is more plentiful, and there is food close at hand (taco bell, BK, McD, and a few others I fail to remember at this time). Plus a gas station/mini-mart are around the corner. How 'bout the NW corner of the parking lot nearest the intersection of 96th Ave/Washington St.? For those out of towners.... Take I-205 (N or S), EXIT at Stark St./Washington St., head EAST on Washington St., take RIGHT LANE A.S.A.P... RIGHT turn on 96th Ave. (about 1 block east of I-205) first LEFT into parking lot. Leave from that area by 2:00? (they won't be letting anybody in until 5:00, maybe later.) It is about 130 miles from Mall 205. That should be between 2 and 2.5 hours, is that comfortable enough timing for everyone? If this is agreeable, see you there. If not, lets get some more ideas coming in, quick! Any Californians, southern Oregonians coming through at that time??? BTW: my group will be on Motorola Talkabout FRS channel 4, sub channel 5. PM me for contact phone number if you wish... Lewis

Buddy at work swapped discs in last week, from a 98 Leg OBW to a 99 Imp OB Sport. E-brake cables were needed, but we used the rear knuckle assemblies as the Imp rears in general have crap bearings. We noted the end of the cable to be different between the two, where the cable "mounts" to the backing plate. We were unable to determine if it was a Legacy/Impreza difference or drum/disc difference. My money is on the drum/disc, due to the clip needed to hold the cable into the disc backing plate. However- this gave us about six inches too much cable, being the shorter body Impreza... Otherwise, all worked well, have fun!!! Lewis

Two items come to mind... Switch and lock at the shifter handle (under trim) could be gooey, usually the cause of not releasing from park, and caused by spilled drinks in the center consloe. Make sure the plunger for the brake interlock is clean along with other items in that area. Inhibitor Switch: located on the passenger side of the tranny right above catalytic converter just above pan, mounted to tranny case. Adjustment is possible where the cable meets the bottom of the shifter. The switch may be bad, or in the name of cheap repairs, simply adjusted. Have you tried to wiggle shifter while in the start position while turning key? Does it work in the entire "position" when in neutral, or just the top/reverse side or the bottom/drive side? If it doesn't work in the entire position I would go for an adjustment. BTW, doesn't your dash show the PRND321? Check if the lights change with shifter position, or are "off" a half-click, this would warrant an adjustment as well. happy hunting! Lewis

Set crank pulley bolt torque to 150 ftlb (haven't had one come loose yet, but have seen "factory specs" loosen up and require a new engine) and apply some grease to threads and shoulder of bolt so it'll torque properly... AND come off later. NO threadlocker! Lewis

This just goes to show you I shouldn't be up this late, I read it, saw it, but it just didn't register.... Soooo... How about the viscous coupler? I have had luck swapping those out in the same manner as the clutch/drum set up in the 4EAT.... It is obvious when its out on the bench if it is good or not, everything should spin with some resistance. If nothing moves, its all locked up, and would best be fixed by swapping in a unit from a trans with a different problem. Lewis

While the pan is out, I would cut out the lower most section of the sump. Say a couple of 1/4" high notches on the straight edges, leaving the corners to stop the pan from closing off the sump, should the pan ever get dented again. Spicifically for those times when you might not know that it happened... Lewis

I would have to surmise, that if all things before check out, you may need the Solenoid "C" replaced and/or the rear output hub inside section replaced as the clutches are probably wearing into the hub, forming a groove that the clutches stick in intermittantly. Lewis

I would go for the part # 2756 NGK. I think it is the BKR6ES? I have seen them for $1.10-$2.50 each, depending on your source. And have seen them last 60-70 K with no misfire problems. Lewis

From what I know through mag articles, ect. is that your vehicle should be able to burn E20 fuel IF the owners manual says so. (I am guessing it won't, since it wasn't an issue in those model years) The current agreement on milage is that it is worse by 2-4 MPG (Chev Tahoe) depending on application, however, the cost is most often less than standard 87 octane unleaded. Do the math, it may work out... plus more of your money stays "here" instead of overseas (so they say). Now, your corn prices will go up at the grocery store since they are turning it into fuel..... oh, crap. I'll just stop now... Good luck Lewis

I would guess there is a group coming up from cali, however, I have not connected with anyone yet. It would be sweet to hook up with "them" and finish the drive up, if they are going through here at that time, so..... From what I hear, they won't be letting any one in untill 17:00, so we may leave closer to 14:00, as it should be under three hours to get there from the south end of I-205. Anybody have a CB they are using for the trip? Motorola TALKABOUT FRS radios? Lewis

Scrap aluminum is up these days I hear...