2.5GL

Too much refrigerant, or a block in the line. How cold is the air out of the vents relative to the air outside?

We'll be in touch... I got some logistical stuff to figure out, but I should be a go for this event instead of WCSS11. If my stuff doesn't come together in time (EJ in the hatch) I may need to take you up on your passenger seat. Or I might as well drive the RS... who knows.

I should be going, however, I doubt that my hatch will be ready by then to go too far off road. Anybody got a seat open while there? No WCSS for me this year. I also would like to know... "Which way is best to get there from PDX?" 1. The google way: I-5, 512, 167, 410, 165 2. Google's alternate choice: I-5, 12, 7, 161, Right on Orville, R. on Kapowsin HWY, R. on Brooks rd/Needham rd, L. on Brooks, L. on Fiske, R. onto some dirt roads, eventually ending up on Mowich Lake road intersecting with 165 about 6 miles from the ORV park. 3. Other options from the locals? More specifically, is the 2nd option even open/passable? It certainly looks more entertaining. (Perhaps I should bring my RS instead.) Distance and time wise it is splitting hairs. Lewis

I would check to see if it flows by running the car, and pulling the diaphragm open with your fingers at an idle (if it is installed) or by putting your finger over the hole to get the engine to run smoothly.The engine should stumble, almost die while the valve/hole is open. If it is flowing, you could then run carb spray through it, but I have had minimal success with that, you'd need to find an EGR system cleaner or use "top engine cleaner". I know GM sells this at their dealerships, but am uncertain if Subaru does. Best to let any chemical sit and soak for a few minutes while the engine is warm. If the system is flowing properly, the BPT valve is usually the culprit. All BPT valves are the same from what I have seen so yours should do the trick. I don't want to state the obvious, but... Does the 96 2.2 have EGR as well? What intake manifold are you using?

Been using Permatex red anaerobic sealant for years, (oil pump, baffle cover, DOHC 2.5 cam caps) have not had a leak to date. I have pulled excess RTV from within oil passages, (yes, the cams were seized, on DOHC 2.5) usually from WAY over do-ing it. Most situations only need a layer as thick as a few pieces of paper. If you keep it thin RTV is fine, if you like to glob it on, use the anaerobic stuff. Now, why didn't the filter catch it? It might have gone into the passage when the pump was removed last...

I may have to come buy and check this show out... the parts look fabulous, want to clean and paint mine???

Ah, I see. I have always added permatex anaerobic sealant to the o/p mating surfaces in addition to new seals and o-rings. Never had recurring TOD with that set-up. Certainly saves $$ on repairing (in my opinion) POS engines/cars that are not worth the time or money. I just don't see "nice" EA82s anymore.

Yeah, BPT valve. The plastic thingy over the EGR valve. I have had nothing but trouble with used ones, they are like $20.00 or so new...

I have not seen a failure of that nature on any oil pump. No have I seen any EA82 oil pumps fail. 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty from SOA, take that thing back and get a new one! I would wonder though, why you got a new one, was the old one failing? No pressure?

"D"? I thought it was an "S" "Socialism" is not for me. Big government is not good for us, too many people will become dependent on it, and then what? Aw, h@#$ I should stop now before I really get going.

This could be a multiple systems failure... Solenoid "C", worn transfer clutch packs, bad seal on shaft allowing fluid to pass, not building pressure. All could be fixed at the same time... Leaving the trans in the car too. See: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=torque+bind Yes, it refers to torque bind, which you have the opposite of. The steps involved to repair are similar.

IF there is fluid in the vacuum line from the shift modulator to the intake, you'll need a new modulator... The diaphragm has died in the modulator, intake sucked the fluid out, and you should have had a James Bond smoke screen under hard acceleration for a while now.

I would not replace the oil pump, just the seals and o-rings that go to it. I have never seen an EA82 oil pump go bad, just leak, suck in air, air pumps up lifter, TOD starts. If TOD goes long enough, lifters go bad. Catch it soon, all will be fine. As far as your original engine... If a tear-down shows no major problems, run it. If you have an engine available, why waste the time? LJ

I never remember which hole to stick the ground wire in, BUT... you plug it in with the key off and shifter in drive. Turn key on (don't start) shift slowly from D - 3 - 2 - 1, press accelerator to the floor (2 seconds), release to half throttle (2 seconds), and then you release the pedal. Code from the AT TEMP light will flash. This is for a current problem. To check history of codes, start at 1 and go to D with the same sequence of steps. ^^^^ is for 95 - 99 cars (give or take) 90-94 requires the same sequence, however you need to start with the "manual" button on, shift to the next gear, turn manual off, shift, turn manual on, shift, turn manual off. 00-> requires same, except: When you start at "D" go down to "1" back to "2" then to "1" again. (D-3-2-1-2-1) OR (1-2-3-D-3-D). Let me know if it works I may have to double check these... LJ

SW region gets +4 votes from my camp, specifically Thurston ORV park. Sun, Shade, a town close by... and I can leave the young-uns with grandpa over the weekend, I just have to get him to come down from Auburn. LJ

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467 The problem is most often the rear clutch pack, transfer clutch, all wheel drive clutch, or rear output clutch... what ever you want to call it. The above thread shows the problem of a worn clutch hub and how to fix it. You may need clutches as well, but usually is not necessary (clutch problem presents itself as NO AWD). Solenoid c is ok considering the FWD fuse temporarily fixed the problem. also check tire sizes, and pressures. If tire sizes are the same, tread depth may be an issue, they should be within 1/32 of each other (ideal). LJ

I have a 2006 Ford Expedition with the 5.4 V-8. I believe it is the first year with 4 wheel independent suspension. What I would like to get is a LSD front with a locker in the rear, or at least a good LSD for the rear if no lockers are available. This pig sucks in the snow, (especially if one tire gets off the ground) but the family no longer fits in the hatch, should we go camping or skiing... Otherwise I would not bother. If you have one and know first hand, or if you know of a place that has "what would work"... I'd appreciate hearing from you. TIA, Lewis

Nice work!!! It has given me motivation to get mine going... Got the block and heads clean, ready to assemble. I just want to jump space and time and get to where you are with yours and skip all the crap I know I don't want to do... trouble shooting, exhaust fabbing, ECU wiring...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=torque+bind for info on the steps to check the problem and fix it if you need to...

97 EJ22s are interference engines... the key thing to look for is a single port exhaust on the head. If it has it, it will crash the valves into the pistons when the belt breaks. Dual port exhausts do not crash. Don't buy a Dayco belt, I have seen too many aftermarket belts break prematurely and cause engine failure, all to save a few bucks. It just does not seem worth it.

10 min? I'd like to come over and watch!!! Maybe on an early Legacy... My Imp has the slot load box, no need to take the box apart, however, the Evap/fan box over laps the heater box about 3/4 inch, I was not willing to fight it in the name of not letting the AC go. Besides, when I got the evap box back in I started the evacuation process. When the dash was in, I turned it off and let stand to check for leaks. When I finished the interior I started the fill process, by the time I was done filling and burping the cooling system, the A/C was done. And yes, to have a place to work on it (with the right tools too) is paramount. I, too, lived in Montana for a few winters and you simply didn't touch the car unless you were "dead in the water". Particularly when you live in a 4-plex, downtown, parked on the street, behind the snowpile left by the snowplow. Man, I miss those days sometimes...

Ahhhh, 12:30 and I'm finished... Cooling system burped, A/C evacuated and recharged, alarm re-installed, and everything works! yay! Now, just have to be back to work in less than 8 hours. :-\

Well, here it is... going to install the one from a 19,000 mile forester donor. yeah, the plastic pipe is busted, I did that on the removal good thing I'm not re-using it. (make sure your pipes are well lubed prior to removing box from car, try to get a long pick device through from the engine side with WD-40 or similar.)

Its out, and wet, just can find the origin of the leak... stay tuned...

Dash out, after 25 min of effing with the stupid alarm wiring (freakin' car toys put wires going everywhere, some going nowhere, others right back to where the came from, or close to it...) Now for the dash support/side impact bar, evap, and heater boxes!!! ..........