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Everything posted by 2.5GL
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Good to see it is going well. It looks great! Make sure you stop by and show us when you get it finished. I might employ you to do mine!
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I know it will work, but I can't remember which head gasket to use. It needs to be the thicker one, which ever one that is... Otherwise it will make some knocking noise due to the piston(s) contacting the head.
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=torque+bind Try this thread for starters. Good pics of the problem areas, and steps to fix it. The tranny will be fine. It will not die on you (at least not because of the torque bind). As always, same tires, same size, correct pressures. Duty solenoid c is most likely at fault, but the clutches are sticking as well. That should be addressed at the same time.
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Thanks all, I'll have my buddy at work check those items this weekend, he just bought a 91 loyale 4x and is playing with it instead. Yeah, bummer for his bro' that he isn't fixin the '81 though...
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Want to know if there is a control unit for the lamp, if so, where is it located on the car? The light works, door does not open. Checking continuity of motor in the mean time... All other aspects of system work, dash lights, switches, etc.
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EA81 and EA82 front disks the same?
2.5GL replied to hatchsub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Also, if your wheels are of the 8 spoke variety, from an EA81, they will not fit over the EA82 caliper when the pads are new. If the pads are worn about 50% or so the original wheel will work. -
1998 Models all had Phase 1 2.2 or DOHC 2.5 1999 Forester had the phase 2 SOHC 2.5 1999 Legacy and Impreza ran the phase 2 2.2 1999 Outback had the Phase 1 DOHC 2.5 1999 Impreza RS had Phase 2 SOHC 2.5 2000 Legacy all got the phase 2 2.5, no more 2.2 2000 Impreza continued to have the phase 2 2.2 and 2.5 I am not certain about newer models after this... If anybody knows more, by all means... .... ... Cam & Crank Gears... The timing marks on the reverse are different. I am not 100% certain of the year but I believe 2003 had a difference between CA and Federal Emissions. These Pulleys had three teeth on the cam gear, not seven. and the crank had like 15 -20 teeth, not seven. I have seen the swap done, not run, car towed all over the Northwest from dealer to dealer before it landed at my shop (an independent). I played with it for a bit, and thought timing issue fairly quickly. Pulled the belt and decided to check the teeth on the pulleys to make sure none were missing. I then thought, "wow, hadn't seen this before" and installed the other pulleys pictured above. Car started, ran like poo for about 10 minutes (cats filled with fuel) and then it ran like a champ. If nobody gets a pick up of the different pulleys in the next few days, I'll see if I can find the ones in question, take pic, and post.
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Saw the car, it drove well, sounded good, leaks were less than expected. Minor body damage (scrapes and scuffs in paint on the corners) immaculately clean inside and out. She had discussed it with b/f and he said post it on CL for $3500! I asked what would she take for it right now and the answer was $2200... Um, never mind. We'll see if she comes back in a week or two... get that down under a grand and we'll talk... Ultimately it would be fun to drive until the tranny blows up. Legacy trannies will swap in all day if I change the rear diff. No biggie. Wheel bearings are cake in the rear. And if I don't want to fix 'er up, I'd' part it out... The sum of a few major parts would reach $1000 fairly quickly. Or I'd have a donor engine for the Impreza! At least its not an XT coupe...:Flame:I hate those damn things with a vengance. EA-82 or ER-27 are not my cup of tea.
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I have an opportunity coming up... To buy or not to buy? My gut says yes, my wife will probably say no. I could re-sell it for twice that fairly quickly, or part it out for more.... And try to stuff the engine into my Impreza. Then the 2.5 can go into the hatch:banana:. BTW: 170K, minor leaks, fuel gauge inop, a/c curently working, probably has bad wheel bearings and the trans is most likely on its last legs (6 speed swap!) Hmmmm, decisions, decisions....
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102 Tuesday, 108 wednesday, and 97 today at the house, RS did fine. However, I have been swapping out t-stats & radiators like mad and replacing high side vapor hoses on 00-04 outbacks for the last three days non stop. So some aren't fairing so well.
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Just don't plan on using it too much more...
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Price Of 4:11 Diff
2.5GL replied to Mugs's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Automatics? Yes. Manuals? Not likely, unless swapped in by someone. -
My understanding of McIntosh is the fact that the sound that comes out of the unit is "cleaner". Lower THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) across all frequencies. While the output (watts) may be the same or slightly higher, the sound produced is better. The speakers are the same, but upgrading the head unit from a "standard" one usually produces favorable results. Now if you put some nicer speakers on the McIntosh system it would sound really good. If you would be listening to sports, talk, or AM radio don't bother, but if you want to hear classical music from a quality CD in every detail when the song is in a "pianissimo" or "very soft" passage, get the upgraded system. Just my $.02.
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There is some concern about a 2002 non turbo GT. Subaru did not make a turbo Legacy GT until '05. That said, it is a SOHC 2.5 which should have a valve adjustment about every 100,000 miles. Chances are you will be into the valve covers replacing gaskets far sooner than that. Even though you don't see a leak, the spark plug pipes through the heads fill with oil. Next time you do a "Tune-up" (Fuel and air filters, spark plugs: recommended every 30,000 miles) you'll pull the plug wires and likely see a collection of oil on the wires after you pull them out. Since you'll probably replace the gaskets at this point, now would be a good time to do the valve adjustment. And yes, like your EA71, small slotted screwdriver and a 10mm wrench. I believe the other post in here stated .008 intake/.010 exhaust. I would double check that figure, as I am not 100% certain.
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My experience says MAF. Its not very often the wiring is bad. If it is it usually looks bad as well. See if you can find somebody near you whom you can barrow a MAF for a day, go though your normal routine (drive to work out to lunch, home again) and see what happens. If nothing happens, get yourself a new one....