ellets

Well here is how I did it. Thanks to all of you cause I didn't know about child lock. I opened front door and removed hinge bolts from rear door. This gave me just enough wiggle room to slip a hacksaw blade under weatherstrip and trip the child lock up. Then I put it back on car and removed the door psnel to see what was wrong with outside handle. Its called oil. I just got this car and it has been sitting in St Louis for a while. The same family has owned it since new and everyone has used it Upkeep????

Maybe someone has done this and can help. Pass side rear door will not open. acts like lock doesn't release. CAR IS AN 88 GL WAGON. Locking button on door works with power from drivers door etc. Door lock light on dash is on. So, has anyone been able to get door panel off without having door open?

Windshield washers are all disconected on the 88 gl wagon I aquired. Can anyone supply a digram or picture of location for vacuum hoses? Also the hose from supply tank to ? thanks Well I got All figured out. This post was all screwed up. Vacuum lines are for motors on air, heat etc. I finally foun open port on back of manifold. Output from washer pump was well hidden behind strut tower. On to the leaky brakes.

My neatest helper was a great horned owl who (no pun) sat in a tree about 10 feet from me while I pulled the heads on my f-250 when it dropped a valve. He or she watched every thing I did.

These are all aftermarket parts. Rock auto has he best price on ru 253. Other number is napa.

just for grins here are the part numbers for resistor pack. standard electric ru253 napa br163

Does anyone know if there is any difference in the oil pan on a 88gl d/r and a 88dl pushbutton 4x4? I am trying to put engine out of dl into gl. Something is interfering. I am somewhat disabled at the moment so it is hard manuver things. Need this car so any help greatly appreciated.

Started checking out the 88 gl wagon I recently aquired and discovered a lockedup engine. The engine can be turned backwards but will syop with a loud clunk when rotated correctly. Don't see any rods sticking out anywhere but something is amiss. Going to drop the engine out of my old d/l into it if i can. It will fit fine but I am down to one hand for awhile. A kickback from table saw did a number on 3 fingers on left hand. Wish me luck!!

picked up an88 gl wagon yesterday. not a turbo but has d/r tranny. Some rust but have seen a lot worse. (like my 88d/l) Something is broke in engine so will probably take engine out of d/l to put in it. Got a busted up hand so by the time that is healed the weather should be good. More fun to come.

Be sure to look here. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/search/car?query=subaru

It will likely work but are you sure it is switch? Resistor pack failure is a common thing in subies.

My dl has a similar problem. Gona have to fix it. I have a mig welder but it and I aren't on the same page yet. Gona have to practice.

Mine was a small leak in heater core. Replaced core and it stopped. Not a small job.

I luv the highly custom mount for the radio.

How long has it been since fuel filter was changed? a partially pluged filter or a failing fuel pump can do this. Also try raising hood at night and look at engine in dark. IE no light and see if there is any arcing or corona around plug wires or spark plugs.

Here is what I know about r12 and r134. I have one of those fancy license to do refer in cars.(???) R12 is colder than r134 and runs at a lower head pressure than r134. I have converted both of my 88 d/l wagons to r134. $7.00 a can sure beats $50.00

There is an aftermarket resister pack available for this. It is made by Standard electric. I found it looking through car parts stores on internet. Can't find the darn part number just now. I got mine from O'rielly auto parts for about $27.00. If I find that info I will post it.

I have 2 d/l's and had this problem. Put new mickey mouse seal on 0ne and new pump on other. Both are fine now.

This seems to be a common problem. Both of my d\l's did it. Just run a ground wire from wiper motor to a nearby good groun and wipers will go like new.

Ahha the good old 34 code. All my d/l wagons have this code showing. One cause seems to be the vacuum switch that feeds the egr solnoid. There is a cleaning procedure for the solnoid. Most repair places just ignore it.

I have a well used 88d/l wagon that has rusted out in the wrong place. It is a awd. I also have an 88 d/l 2wd with a good body. Has anyone swapped a 4wd setup into a 2wd? If so what issues did you run into?

There should also be a blade type fuse sticking up in a holder above the strut tower on pass side of car. If this fuse is blown no 4wd.

go here for code info. usrm at top of page. go to page 2.

Just for grins, I replaced the engine temp sensor with a 800 ohm resistor. This made a great improvement in engine operation. I just unpluged the 2 wire connector from sensor and stuck resistor in plug. I wonder why a simple brass connector with a thermistor in it (about $5.00 worth) should cost over $75.00.

That all sounds familiar. I have a funky ignition switch around here that did that. Also a code 34 is an egr fail code. Problem can't really be fixed as I was told by Subie shop. all my early Subies have tape over cel.