msmithmmx

Happy Holidays All.... I have done 4 Subaru timing belts and this is the first one that had man made white marks from the last shop to do the belt. I know how the marks should be lined up. But here is what does make sense. Both Cam sprockets are line up with the metal notch to the back of the timeing belt guard. The problem is the Crank Sprocket is pointing 90 degrees right as seen in the pics. It should point straight up. What do I do. Leave as is or swing it back 90 degrees. It has been running fine the past 90K miles. 98 OBW Auto with a 2.2

The heads need to be machined we all agree. Have them also test the valves. They fill them with some break cleaner and blow some compressed air through them and check for leaks. Get those seals replaced as well if they are leaking.

I also heard some rod knock mixed in there. As far as the bolts go..... Those bolts go through a stretching process, that all I am going to say. For 50 bucks, I replace them

I was going to say coil but you replaced that. I am thinking cam or crank sensor. Do you have a yard near you? get those things for 5 bucks a pop.

The last HG swap still cost me 800.00 in parts and machine work. Below is a step-by-step write-up that was very usefull for me. http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html The 2.2 is rock solid

I figured it out. You are right from the firewall there is a ground to the air intake. I had that wire to the starter bolt (wrong). The Real starter wire was burried in the mess and I never saw it.

Thanks for the reply.. The only ground I have from the firewall goes to the screw on my starter. Any chance you can snap a few pics and email to me. msmithmmx@yahoo.com

If no ground it just holds the plate the covers the fuel injectors. Juts no idea why I would have loosened. Thanks

I was putting the 2.5 back into my 2000 OBW and saw this bolt unscrewed which makes me think something should go on it. Do I have the starter ground in the wrong place. Check my pic out. Thanks

I picked up a starter for 80 bucks at pep boys for my 98. I have 2 years on it. It did sound a little weaker then OEM when I installed but I have forgotten the real sound over the past 2 years. It works fine and it comes with a lifetime warrenty.

I dug it out. Is it OK if the tensioner has a little play on it? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91346&highlight=timing+belt+tooth

The manual says 44 teeth on Pass and 40.5 on the Driver. My Driver is spot on but the Pass side is 48. Its a 2000 2.5. Is the Manual wrong?

Is .008 intake/.010 exhaust correct?

I was just about to post this question and I was beat to it. Unable to find the specification. Where do you take the feeler gauge to? Mine have a little rocking movement.

Check your PM

The offer you had for 450 is not that bad. Scrap its worth 140.00. If it went to a shop your looking at a 1800 repiar on a car with over 200K. The engine swap is the only way I would go.

Yep, Nipper is correct. Say hello to blow by after that HG is done.

Thanks for the reply. The inside of the passenger side boot is a little wet but it was not connected on to the rack so it was open for road grim and water. I think the rack now is fine. I wipped it down and have not seen and leaks in the past couple days. I brother said he never needed to add PS fluid.

While fixing all of the things wrong with this car. I noticed some power steering fluid wet around the rack. Question. Should the shaft that goes in and out of the rack to turn the tires be coated in ps fluid? The passenger side shaft is wet and the driver side is dry. The pass side inner tie rood boot is wet inside with fluid.

Wish I knew that. The dealer charged me 70 bucks for the e-brake shoes.

2000 OBW, Does anyone know the thread size for the ball joint castle nut? Thank you.

I have always used Prostop from Pepboys. I am using Napa pads now (the cheapest) they grind bad. Wish I had used the Prostop's

I knew this would start a fire storm. Here is the problem with replacing it. Its a big seal and without the tool to drive it on the right way it will leak. You can make the tool at home depot. If you drive it on correctly it will not leak. If you go to the dealer and pick one up they will have a stack of them there. That means they are replacing them often.

I always replace the rear main seal regardless of the condition it is in. You can make the tool to drive it with some PVC pipe from Home depot. Just bring the old one into home depot so you can get the right size pipe. Do not use a screw driver to remove that seal us a seal puller such as this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle-Tools-58430-Shaft-Type-Seal-Puller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem3a502c83f2QQitemZ250453197810QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

I took off the engine mount and I can see oil leaking from the head gasket. Does anyone have the pdf for a HG replacement on a 2000 2.5 The setup is different from all of the middle 90's HG. I am not sure of the removal pattern