msmithmmx

Did the donar car have this problem before the swap?

Problem solved. The first driven plate was left in. You should remove 11 plates and install 11 plates. Do not count the snap ring

The part I used was made by EagleBHP part # 4409

Hello. I have a 98 OBW. I am rebuilding the tail housing of my AT transmission. I installed the new clutch pack and now the snap ring will not fit back in place. With the rings back to OEM thickness I cant seem to get the snap ring to fit into the groove. Anyone have any tips? I used part # 31523AA410.

I am working on the transmission in my 98 OBW as we speak. The mount was shot. The rubber was torn from the metal bracket. I live in PA lots of salt on the roads down here. I purchased one off eBay for $20 came in a nice package and appears to be quality.

Thanks for the reply. What about the notches on the side? Should those be there? They are way to deep to grind out.

98 OBW 245K w/2.2 Hello all. I have been putting this off for 5 years and or 40K miles. My plan was to replace clutch pack and dutcy c seloniod. Take a look at this basket I think it is done. The grooves are so symmetrical though. Enjoy my misery but please comment if you think that is toast. Are there any good used ones out there?

I did use anti-seize on everything. I also did three years ago. In PA the salt is bad. I have removed 4 or so engines in the past and I have never had an issue using a impact wrench to remove exhaust studs until now.

98 OBW w/ 2.2 240K miles The back story. Three years and 5K miles ago I performed significant exhaust repair. I replaced the rear catalytic converter, O2 sensor, center pipe and muffler all due to rust. I purchased the parts off the internet. All of them were aftermarket. I could not get things bolted together tightly so I did end up at a local exhaust shop that tightened things up for me including extended the center pipe for a $100. I am writing this up to provide some encouragement when things go bad and to provide all of the parts that will fit perfect without any trips to the shop. If I had to take this to the shop I probably would have sold the car as-is due to the cost of the repair Present day Nov 2015. I thought this would be a 5 minute $5 fix. I had a leak where the Y-pipe meets the head. I proceeded to unbolt the y-pipe with the impact wrench and snapped an exhaust stud. I was able to remove the other three with nut and stud as one piece. They were fused together due to rust. Now I needed the exhaust out of the way. Unbolting the y-pip from the front cat is not worth the pain of working on your back so I pulled down the entire exhaust for a good inspection. Things just got worse from here. One broken exhaust stud in the block. Rear stud driver side. (worst one to snap) The y-pipe head flanges where rusted out. I could see black exhaust trails flowing down the head. The three year old non-oem replacement catalytic converter (Walker 16090) had advanced rust issues on the flanges and the hanger was half rusted out. (I purchased this off Amazon and it had a 5 year warranty). They replaced it without any issue. Unable to remove generic O2 Sensor (BOSCH 15726) from the catalytic converter The three year old non-oem center pipe had a huge hole on the top of the resonator. Could not find any receipts for this one. Removing the exhaust stud There are many tricks to get this done. I had no access to welding equipment. I did not even bother with the EZ out tools because there was no way I was getting more torque then what was available before the bolt head snapped off. 1) Get a new hack saw blade and wrap one side with a towel so you can hold it comfortable. Use oil and cut the stud flush with the head if it is not already thatway. 2) Center punch the stud 3) Drill a pilot hole using a ¼ Colbalt drill bill. Drill to the depth that the other empty stud holes are at. You can measure this by dropping in the drill bit in an empty hole and wrapping tap around the bit as a marker. DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP. 4) Now drill the hole for a second time using a 5/16 Cobalt drill bit. I used a DeWalt DWA1220 and it cut like butter. 5) Now it is time to tap the hole. I used an IRWIN 10mm – 1.25 that picked up off eBay. THIS IS A CRITICAL TIME. You need to do this by hand. Since I broke the stud located in the worst spot I had to put the tap into ¼ 12 inch extension and then insert the extension into the hand tool. I will include a picture of this. At most I was able to turn the tap 1/16 of an inch before I had to pull it out and blow the metal shavings off with compressed air and re-oil the tap. This entire process from step 1 took me 6 hours over the course of a week to complete. Do not lose faith here. This is very slow going. If you break the drill bit or the tap in the stud hole you will need a new head. Careful work here is worth it. Do the math. I also chased the other three holes. I was very surprised to see all of the shavings that came out. Cover everything in anti-seize I went with new OEM studs and nuts instead of the old fused stud/bolt that I pulled off. For $20 I thought it was worth going new. The exhaust will go on exactly as it was taken off. When it comes to exhaust parts I am generally ok with aftermarket except the gaskets used between the y-pipe and the head. Use OEM. This is just my experience. This parts list worked perfectly for my 98 Subaru Outback with 2.2 engine. The 2.2 engine is a single port exhaust. If you have the 2.5 you have dual port exhaust on the head and will need a different Y-pipe and head exhaust gaskets. Parts List (1) Y-pipe Part# 2100-58201-2. Manufacture: AUTOPART International - eBay (2) Gasket between Y-Pipe and Engine. Part# 44011AC020. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (1) Gasket between Y-Pipe and front catalytic converter. Part# 2107-00288. Manufacture: AUTOPART International – Came with the y-pipe (2) Gasket between front and rear catalytic converter. Between center pipe and muffler Part# 31388. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Flex joint donut gasket between rear catalytic converter and center pipe. Part# 31697. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Spring Bolt Kit used to connect center pipe to rear catalytic converter. Part# 35412. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) O2 Sensor for rear catalytic converter. Part# 15726. Manufacture BOSCH - Amazon (1) Rear catalytic converter. Part# 16090. Manufacture Walker. (Warranty replacement for me) - Amazon (4) Exhaust Studs. Part# 800910550. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (4) Exhaust Stud Bolts. Part# 902370029. Manufacture Subaru - eBay The parts total was $255. I have 10 hours labor in this job. If I had a shop complete this work I am guessing the total would have been $1,000 to $1,400.

The bubbles you are seeing is from the coolant turning to steam due to the temperature rising and the pressure blowing it back into the res tank. If you drove it long enough the res tank would fill up then would blow out of the tank down your driver side fender leaking all over your tire. On rare occasion on this forum I have seen the root cause as air being in the system. All other root causes were a head gasket.

You had a scientific test performed that ruled out hydrocarbons. This would indicate that you do not have a head gasket issue. I have a non-scientific answer. After being around this forum for years I have seen several people report your results to only see it come down to a bad head gasket. Given the car, engine, miles, the year I think you could have a bad head gasket. The one sign for me is the blow back coolant into the reservoir. If you let that go long enough it would then blow out of the tank. You also bled the coolant so that is ruled out. ​

I did eventually pull the rear drive shaft out of the transmission. had to spin and wiggle it out. That part is broken. Also in need of replacement is the clutch drum as it is scared and scratched. I know all of these things come apart but they need to be pressed in so at this point I think I would just buy them used as one assembly.

Any coolant in the overflow tank?

If you can get the car to start by hitting the starter with a hammer you have a bad starter. Internal there are bad contacts. The blow of the hammer moves it just enough to get it to crank. Nothing beats a Subaru starter even a used one. Just my opinion.

I did get the drum unstuck from the clutches with a hammer and screw driver. Any idea what those peices are jamed into the clutch pack? another pic on the paper towel shows up good. As you can see that shaft is stuck in the transmission. Even if the drum had stayed on it is completely shot as you will see with deep grooving.

Sorry, pic is of the extension housing that the clutch drum is in. Does that mean I have a busted output shaft? Also I can pull that gear out of the extension housing but that drum is stuck to the clutches. It wiggles a little. The busted output shaft will move about 4 inches out of the transmission but then seems to hit something internal and will not pull all the way out.

​Hello, I have a 98 OBW 200+. Bad torque bind, AT light flashing. I opened the tail end of the transmission and things just dropped out. Does anyone have any idea what that broken metal band is to? Also the end of this gear looks sheered off. How bad is this?

I pulled the engine seperate. Only took about 15 minutes to split from the trans. I then disconnected the axles and transmission bolts. I lifted the trans up with a floor jack on a block of wood then lifted with the engine hoist and started rolling back. The driveshaft just pulled from the trans. I have a heavy duty hoist that I picked up this morning for $75 so I was able to get it real high to pull out. This transmission is heavy. Personally I would not feel comfortable pulling out from the bottom on jack stands. I know it would have been quicker but the risk is to great. I was surprised how much fluid started leaking out as I had this thing airborne. Here is a pic.

so it sound like I am pulling them seperate. With that said do I need to disconnect the drive shaft anywhere? Or does that just pull out?

I have a 98 OBW Donor car. I need the transmission. I want to pull it all out of the engine bay for safety reasons. Looking for best way. I have pulled many engines. When it comes to the transmission. I see the bolts to the bottom support. I know I have to pull the axle pins. Anything else? Will the drive shaft just slip out. Should I pull the engine and trans together? Thanks for the help

I had this same issue a few years back. Leading up to the fuse blowing was a noisy AC compressor when the clutch was engaged and it only was getting worse. I am thinking the bearings were going bad causing more resistance and more power needed to move the clutch. I replaced the AC compressor with a used one and it never happened again. I am now getting close to the same noises again. This time I am going with a reman compressor. The compressors in the yard now are 15+ years old. Another symptom I am having is hot air when I stop the car. When I am moving it is somewhat cold. Do you have any of these symptoms?

I have a 12 OBW and I am also concerned with this. I am by no means telling people how to check the oil. I am only telling you what the dealer told me yesterday so I am only the messenger here. I checked my oil after the car was sitting for the night and I am estimating it looked a quart low. With the dealer instructions I ran it to temp turned it off and let it sit for 10 minutes. I checked the oil level and it was perfect.

Why did you replace the water pump and thermostat to begin with? Was it overheating before you did this work?

Hello, I am going on 4 years and 20K miles later with flashing AT light. The FWD fuse does not work for me. The torque bind is getting worse and worse by the day. If I put the car in reverse and turn the wheel it will not move. I have to give it serious gas. When I put it in park it makes awful banging noise. It drives fine going forward. MPG has suffered. I am actually looking to source a transmission at this point.

Year and model please