msmithmmx

I tried this tractor trailer repair shop near me. It was no match for a 55 ton press. It was separated in no time. While I was there he took apart the whole knuckle for me. He had to take his welder to the inner race. I understand how bearing jobs can get so expensive. Great ideas above, I will keep this in mind.

I do not think it would be worth the time. I picked one up for my 98 Outback on eBay for 40 bucks shipped.

I am going to find a garage on Tuesday with a huge press. If it does not work I will looking for used parts. I had some parts in the garage. All I need is the axle and dust shield for the knuckle. I banged that thing to death and it did not budge.

Grossgary, thanks.. two yanks and out the axle came come the rear diff. A bad wheel bearing may have now turned into a nuckle/hub/bearing/axle replacement. Where is the best location to apply heat? any tips to try and save the threads on the axle when beating it out? A few subaru's ago I tried a 20 ton press on this same type of problem and it would still not pop out.

Hello all, Its been awhile since posting. I failed PA inspection with a bad rear wheel bearing. My OBW has 230K and has never had any rear suspension work. I was able to to get every bolt apart with some PB blaster and my 600 foot pound impact wrench. The problem... I am unable to get the axle seperated from the rear knuckle. I thought I would just remove the axle from the rear diff so I could get more leverage to beat that thing out and I see no way to remove like I do the front axles. I did a search and I did not find anything. Any one know how to do this?

Thats good old piston slap. Since is it is getting colder you are going to hear it more. I have the same thing and goes away in 10 minutes. I have been driving with it for 100K

The price would not be that bad if it were not for that uncalled for 75.00 dollar fee to read the code. That should be included in a 1 hour labor fee.

No guarantees here but it worked for me. Get to a parking lot with no cars. Complete several tight figure eights. Try it out

Thats about right, mine is sitting in the hole. Not much force to remove it

There will be more holes on the transmission side (6) compared to four on your engine. As far as the electrical goes, you will need some serious work. I have not read that anyone has invested the time to do it.

grease the slides

I do not think those electrical connectors will match up. You need to check this, if they don't its not worth the time to try and make it work. 800 is way to much for a parts car. I would go 350 max. Remeber you still have another 100 in a tow.

I use the kits off of Ebay, They are non-oem and work fine.

98 OBW Auto 211K. I am on the last things that need replacing and I jumped into this one. Every few months I would get a check engine light for low voltage on the TPS. I got one off Ebay and installed. Now I am reading I should have it tuned. It actually seems fine as is right now. Looks like it should be set at .45 and .55 on the multimeter. How does one take this reading? I know key should be on and throttle closed. Where do I stick the probes?

When is need to work on the rear of the engine I use a very simple 5 dollar wood stand that I made.

I mount all of my 2.2's and 2.5 at the transmission holes in the rear. You will need two long bolts at the top and use the bottom transmission bolts allready there.

I have 100 miles on it since tightening the battery cables down, no issues. Thanks a ton for the help.

I am going to be honest with you. I just checked the ground conection to the battery. It was loose enough that I was able to wiggle it off the battery post. So was the positive. I was unable to reproduce 10 minutes ago before this change. I need to go take for a spin. It can't be this easy, its never is. THANKS

The car has been sitting for 30 minutes and now I am unable to reproduce the problem 13.8 Volts on the alternator 13.2 on the battery When running 12.5 on battery while the car is off

98 OBW 2.2 w/ 210K Hello All. The Problem: When I hit the brakes the headlights either go out then come back on or they slowly dim out and back on. At the same time the interior lights go out. The ABS light sometimes comes on and or sometimes the AT Temp light will come on. Sometime they both flash. When I start driving it goes back to normal. About 700 miles ago I replaced the starter because sometimes when I would turn the key I would get nothing. After I replaced the starter that symptom never happened again. I also recently 300 miles ago replaced the IAC because it was stalling out at stop lights. this has not happened since. I am thinking alternator. Its a two year old remanufacture from PepBoys. Any thoughts. It was very un-nerving coming down 295 south from NJ into PA.

Submerge them in a cup of oil as you pump they up and down. You will see the old dirty oil squeez out.

here are only two bolts on the knuckle, the ABS sensor and the ball joint. What could they have broken on the knuckle? If they broke the ball joint they can press it out. Wondering if they are unable to press the ball joint out or broke that nut off? They could have drilled it out and re-taped. But no need to touch this stuff for an alignment

Stuck lifters are going to make a clicking sound. The sound you described sounds like you are off a tooth. With the engine running and the timing cover removed can you see if the timing belt is bouncing around. When you put the tensioner back in did you use a flat head screw driver to push it to the left before tightening down and pulling the pin?

My 97 2.2 clicks away in the morning when it is cold out for 2 to 3 miles then goes away. It has been this way for 70K miles. I would not try any additive.

Hello Again. 97 2.2. I am doing the timing belt and figured I would adjust the valves. The service manual reads, Intake valves 0.20 ± 0.02 mm and Exhaust valves 0.25 ± 0.02 mm. Is this correct still?