msmithmmx

If you have 175K on the motor, you will have oil blow by after you put it all back together. Get yourself a 2.2.

I used this aftermarket clutch with no issue. Get your flywheel resurfaced, its worth the 75 bucks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-IMPREZA-FORESTER-LEGACY-OUTBACK-CLUTCH-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem350167437102QQitemZ350167437102QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Please listen to Nipper and take my advice. I did a HG on my 98 Subaru, 200 K on the motor. The engine no longer over heats but now am burning some oil. Its my extra car so its not killing me but.... The next time I do this on an older moter I will split the block and do the rings.

Replacing front springs and struts on Auto 98 OBW. Got the parts from 1stsubaruparts. I got 2 boxes and they are marked with 2 differnt part numbers. 20330AC320 and 20330AC330. They look exactly the same. Which one is left and right please? Thanks

Please do go to the dealer for that part, post on things wanted and look on ebay. I bet you could get the whole thing for under 40 bucks

They have a return policy minus shipping and 10%.

Less then 2 bills new off Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Forester-Legacy-Outback-2-5L-catalytic-converter_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem190285115801QQitemZ190285115801QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

As far as the ECU goes make sure that you match up if it is an auto or a manual. 96 to 98 would work and it really does not matter if you use a 2.2 or a 2.5. The ECU is under the front passenger side carpet. If you need one PM me, I have one that should work if its an auto. I really think your missing the ground from the batter side harness to the block.

Need a tool suggestion, under 25 bucks. I have my suspension out and figured I would reseal the axle's. I need special tool for the bands. Any suggestions?

Just to be clear, the dash lights are on with the key out of the car? Did you have this same issue with the motor with the blown HG? This is the first thing that needs to be addressed. Peel this thing back like an onion.

130K, that is like new. I would suggest a valve job and have them decked. Let the shop know they have been done before, you might be near the tolerance. I would also do any rubber seal you can get at regardless if it is leaking. For 5 to 8 bucks a seal it pays.

How many miles on the engine.

The relay is fine, you tested it with those green connectors together. Are you concerned that the second fan is not coming on? You could also test out the whole ckt by pulling the plug on the temp sensor, that would starts the fans as well. That would leave you then with a temp sensor.

You want to pull the engine correct? The TC will sit in place on the tranny when you pull the engine. No need to touch it.

There is a way to test both fans, in the driver side under the dash are 2 green connectors, plug them together and turn the car on but do not start it. Both fans should come on. There are others ways, let me know if that works.

Ok, I moved the steering wheel all they way to the side I was working. This way I was able to work inside the wheel well. Working under the car on jack stands freaks me out some. With some time I was able to knock those grooves out. And as suggested I took a pair of channel locks and bang.... of it came. Any suggestion on getting the break cable off the strut tower. I am replacing the front stuts and springs as well. This all started as a wheel bearing

OK, I give up..... How do you get those little nasty notches undone from the inner tie rod. They are holding the whole project up. They are at a very bad position.

As he said above. Use a sharpie and mark each bolt with a line. This way you can eye ball the degree's 90 and 180 is easy.

Let me say thank you, I would never have seen those notches if I did not take a closer look. I am sure I would have torn up the rack. I still can't get much leverage. I will loan that tool from Autozone. Are the vice grips to hold the rack shaft as I lossen the inner tie rod?

Lowering the rack will not help me I still have the sway bar in place and in the way. I can't lower the sway bar because the jack stands are in the swap bar mounts. I saw that tool for removing inner tie rods. I am going to loan one from Autozone. Any advice getting the ball joint from the knuckle? I have the whole knuckle out. I can see why this costs so much at a shop. Lots of time.

Got it all off but for that inner tie rod, Need a special tool...

It started as a bad wheel bearing and now has turned into a new suspension. What does anyone recommend for removing the inner tie rod boot, inner tie rod and ball joint from knuckle. Need some hints on tools. Links would be awesome.

If it's telling you knock sensor then I would replace with a known good one. Post on Things needed. You can grab one for under 10 bucks.

I use a Actron model CP9135. For 100 bucks it does everything including telling you what the code means and it reads the monitors so you know if you are ready for inspection after clearing those codes.

When the check engine light comes on does it blink for a little. With 3 and 4 going at the same time I am going with a bad coil pack. I had this same issue last week and I replaced 200K coil pack. Problem solved. And please Ebay that coil pack or ask on the board here. You should be able to get one for under 20 bucks. The dealer my guess is 3 bills