msmithmmx

Your basket is in bad shape. I did this job 6 years ago. I still have the 98 OBW w/ the 2.2 works like a top. Here is the link to all of the parts I used plus a pic of a brand new basket to measure yours against. This is an easy job. Technical name for the basket is “GEAR COMPLETE-REDUCTION DRIVE”

When it happens measure voltage to confirm you have 0 voltage on the thin black wire with spade connector that connects to the starter. I have chased this issue for a few years. I see you added the workaround. That will fix it for good. What is the part number of that solenoid? Any chance you could describe on that pic what connects to what. I get around 280 miles per tank. 97 2.2 with 260k miles in a 98 OBW

This is a timeless complaint without a common fix. When you say click. Is it a single click or many in succession?

To rule out the neutral safety switch try starting the car in neutral. Does it work?

No crank correct? Where are you testing the ignition? Describe what you are calling the hot wire.

Perform the test I mentioned. Do you have a factory security system?

The classic Subaru no crank / no start. When this conditions happens you need to perform this test. Pull the thin black wire off the starter. It is a spade connector. Put your multimeter on that wire and see if you have 12 volts when you try to start the car. I am guessing you don't. If you do you have a bad starter. If you don't welcome and get ready to jump into the rabbit hole. If you wait 10 to 40 minutes do you notice the car starts up?

Did you ever get this fixed?

It is 15 degrees here in PA. Your workaround did the trick as well.

I have both a no crank /no start when I sit in the car and turn the key. When I manually try to jump it with a wire from the batter to starter it only cranks. I think it is an issue with the ignition lock cylinder. Something is shorting the ignition out. I have the part and may try to swap this weekend. I expect this to be an issue on the incline for others as we hit 20+ years of operation. DP213 - Did you ever fix your issue.

When my car will not start and with the key in the on position a wire placed from starter to battery will not work. It will turn the starter but the engine will not start it will only crank.

Can you explain the original starting issue? Are you turning the key and nothing is happening or does it crank without starting?

I think I have the workaround so you are not left stranded. I have this exact issue that is aggravated with extreme hot and cold weather. As drivers we are conditioned to turn the key for a split second expecting the starter to kick in and start the car. That will not work if your car has this issue. Workaround. Turn the key all the way and hold it. Within 5 to 15 seconds the car will start to crank. This has worked for the past week for me.

What exactly is the issue?

$225 for any pump installed and out the door same day is a good deal.

Check out this post and follow the link. Someone wrote those lines are the screen sensors. The screen has faded to the point you see them now. Some dealers replace and some don't. Did not read entire article. https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/5jlz8a/subaru_infotainment_system_lines_on_screen/

Your AT temp light is blinking after using that product. I think you may have damaged your MAF. They are not that expensive at the yard or ebay. I am sure a few people her have some for sale

I have a 98 OBW with 2.2. I barely get 20 mpg. Plugs and a fuel filter may help. If I get around to it I may try new injectors in the future. Car is over 20 years old.

The condition you are describing with rust and a failed transmission is what I would call a parts car. $500 top end. Look on Craigslist to see what people are asking.

60 to 65 mph is a tire out of balance or bent rim. Same thing I guess.

Head gasket. You really need a solid test drive of 30 to 60 minutes. Need the engine at temp for an extended period of time. At that mileage expect and add in HG failure into you price

What happened?

Clear the codes and see what comes back. This will not clear the AT temp light from blinking. Lets treat that as a seperate issue for now.

Did you use your clockspring? Used part could have a faulty one? Did you plug all wires in?

A shaking steering wheel at 60 to 65 mph is due to front tires being out of balance.