msmithmmx

Why a complete swap? Was there an issue with the old trans?

How many miles post ecu swap?

Hello. You have completed some good troubleshooting. I am not a believer in coincidences. If you did not have this issue before the head gasket work then the odds are less then 1% that you have a ECU problem post swap. You mentioned that you have 130 psi in that cylinder. That is low. I searched around and you should be around 185. Google "low compression and misfire". Check something like this out http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/157514-p0304-help-tried-everything.html

I had this same issue on my 98 obw. You are getting interference from other peoples key fabs. My neighbors ford key fob would set my car off. I replaced the alarm module located under dash driver side and never had the issue happen again. They are cheap on eBay and super easy to reprogram your fabs

Agreed. Take the belt off and feel for play and or drag on the pully. If it fails in production metal bits will find their way into the ac system. Should be able to operate without the ac belt until fixed. I did with my 98 obw

Are you seeing any leaks from the 4 new double flares you made? Are the connections tight. I have used this tool to bleed my brakes for years without issue Motive Products 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder w/ Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_78IuAbBE846YC

Water got into the fuse box in the engine compartment then dried off. I never suggest pressure washing a newer car.

Learn from my mistake and get new knuckles from lmdew. If you go for the rebuild then read my misfortune first http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162275-knuckle-rebuild-after-ball-joint-pinch-bolt-snapped/ My two cents.. If you have the knuckle out now is the time to replace tie rod ends inner and outer. I would replace the hub if you are going with a new bearing. Less then 25 bucks on Amazon. Those parts come with new nuts. You can reuse as needed. I would go for a new cotter pin on the ball joint castle nut.

You will need to make a double flare. This is critical. I used the NAPA Flaring Tool #161A with perfection. There is a $12 version on Amazon OEM Tools 24364. You will also need Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm. Amazon has them as well. I made the splices under the car at the junction block in front of the rear passenger side wheel. Why? less double flares I needed to make. Less chance of leaks.

Hello. Just had this same issue. I routed next to gas tank. Check this post out. Replace both sides. Single line per side. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165015-brake-fluid-leak-above-gas-tank-rear-passenger-side/?fromsearch=1

I had an issue like this. Take a look at the back of the engine. See if the rear cam plugs are leaking. They will drip down the rear of the engine making it look like the heads are leaking.

How did things turn out?

Start the car. Turn on heat, radio and lights. Take your multimeter set it to 20V DC and connect to battery. Post your reading here. You should see at least high 13.7 to 14.3V. I recently replaced my weak alternator 12.4V. I got that one from Pepboys lasted around 7 years.

Any chance it sounds like this?

Are the springs 18 years old? I suggest new springs. Get the misc. Other parts off eBay

These will fit the 98 OBW Neapco 1-0430 Rear Joint. Everyone said it cant be done. Maybe these will fit yours? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141870-u-joint-replacement-anyone/

About the starting issue. Crank or no crank? Clicking? Do all dash lights go on?. Original starter?

At this point buy new. Used parts are 20 years old. Ignition Coil for 1997 1998 Subaru Impreza Legacy H42.2L 2.5L Compatible with C1150 Uf-193 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9PND60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VOpbAbB48ESBD

A month ago I had this same situation. I cleared the code and right after that the car felt really bad. I had a 3 second hesitation accelerating. I removed the negative battery cable and let sit over night. Hooked it back in the morning and everything was perfect. Here I am a month later without issue on my 2012 outback.

I have some bad news. I think you are right about the smaller pin

I have a transmission open on my bench as we speak. I will look around for these pins

I have finished the job and have 20 miles on the car. There is no more leaks and the brakes work perfect. I did go with the copper nickle tube and splurged for the stainless gravel guard. It is probably overkill but it is added security. This tubing is very easy to work with but I still used the bending tool in a few locations. I left the old brake lines in place. I did tie into the junction block located rear passenger side that connects the front feeder lines with the rear lines. I was working on my back but there are 4 less double flares that I had to make. I was able to disconnect the old lines easily with a 10 MM flare wrench. I had to unmounts that block so I could move it around. I also had to disconnect the mounting bracket for the emergency brake. Do yourself a favor and pick up this flaring tool. NAPA Flaring Tool #161A. I watched the NAPA video on YouTube. After I cut the new lines I took a razor blade and chamfered the inner tube to knock off all sharp edges then I took a file and ran it across each end of the tube. I tried using the standard tool you can rent. Don't even bother unless your a pro and you know how to use it. I picked up the 161A and created perfect double flares. The pin broke on the 3/16 dye and it still worked perfect. All that I planned on doing was swapping out a starter and that job morphed into this. 25 Ft. Roll / Coil of 3/16" Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing Amazon $26 Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm Amazon $10. NAPA Flaring Tool #161A In Store $32 Stainless Brake Line Protector (Gravel Guard Spring) for 3/16" Tube - 16 Ft. Ebay $18 1/8 3/16 1/4" Tube Bender Tubing Fuel Brake AC Refrigerant Line Bending Tool Ebay $16 10 MM Flare Wrench. This is a must.

The job is done. I made the perfect double flare many times over.. If you are doing this job you need this tool. I picked mine up at Napa. As noted in another post above it is the Inline double flare model # 161A. I will be posting more pictures. I first tried the traditional tool and it would not work for me.

Hello all. I tried the double flare with the standard tool I picked off eBay. I am not getting past step one. I never really get the bubble flare. Cant find that inline tool anywhere but off the internet. Take a look.. what is wrong with my technique? I even used two types of tubing same result. I am using 3/16 line. I am inclined to think this is operator error and not machine error.

Do you use any phone apps that interface with the cars computer?