msmithmmx

Does the car sort of slam into park? Do you have to give it gas to move the car while in reverse? The parts are not that expensive. Here is a link that will give you an idea.

Resolder R1 resistor. Seems like all you do is warm the contacts up a little until it goes to liquid. Maybe add a dab of solder to the point on your solder gun.

I have read on a few electrical forums that you can't properly test the resistance of a resistor that is soldered to a circuit board. You are testing every other component in that circuit.

Thanks for the followup. Glad to hear the diy $120 scanners are on par with pro equipment.

Check ebay for parts. Does not pay to visit the yard anymore. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153103726965

Not that expensive. Couple hours of work I am sure. Here is the part https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112690923300

I think have this same noise you have described on my 97 2.2. Thermal expansion of the piston was what I understood for the noise going away after warm up. Record a video and share.

Check out the crp123. Looks like that may be a winner https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/128018-autel-al619-subaru-compatability.html

Here is what I use. Autel AL619 Autolink Engine,ABS,SRS Auto OBD2 Scanner Car Code Reader Automotive Diagnostic Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091DJWV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IhuKBbF47QDM7

Here is how I rebuilt mine. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162275-knuckle-rebuild-after-ball-joint-pinch-bolt-snapped/?fromsearch=1

Take the nut off the ball joint flip it over and screw back on a little. Take a floor jack and place it under that nut. Jack it up a little until you see the control arm move up. Go to Lowes and get a 3 foot pipe used for natural gas applications. Direct the pipe on the control arm and just keep hitting it downwards with a hand held sledge hammer. This may go on for 30 minutes until you see it drop off the ball joint.

Please take lmdew up on the offer. I wish I did a year ago before I got involved in the same situation your in now.

I have a good used spare MAF. PM me.

Your not the first. Try getting the engine up to operating temp and try to twist both directions. This guy used a dremmel and cut it out and that still did not work. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5735677-36-mm-socket-cracked-then-disintegrated-my-oil-filter-housing#/topics/5735677?page=1

Hello Keith, did this issue ever come back 10 years later?

This is a tough crowd for this question. We only think in parts. Under $700 with tax is in the ball park of reasonable. I would also do the brake shoes for the e-brake if needed

I suspect 2 things went wrong in the tail housing of your transmission. 1) The clutch basket has sheered off of the input shaft. 2) Duty C solenoid has failed. There is a special process to pull the code from the blinking AT lights. A scanner will not do the job. Search around for the handshake process. Below is a link for this type of problem. To have a pro do this job will be at least $1,400. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121116-at-light-flashes-16-times-what-to-do/?tab=comments#comment-1021625

I let a grinding wheel bearing go for several years before I got to it. You just had an immediate failure on a bearing that is 20 years old. Don't beat yourself up about it. Looks like you got a lot of work done for $200. That is a plus.

Why do you need a knuckle? Is it cracked or warped? Your talking about a 20 year old part that takes a beating every time the car is driven. A used knuckle should cost $70 shipped off ebay. Expect to rebuild the entire knuckle. Bearing/seals/ball joint/hub. The additional new parts will cost another $70. Rebuild of the knuckle is one hour shop time.

You said you replaced a bad radiator. How was it bad?

Good post. Sorry if I missed it. Why did you cut the sleeve out when you can buy the entire unit already pressed?

Hello. Before you purchase any parts get a $35 gauge set off Amazon. What are your low and high side readings at idle and 2000 RPM capture the temp outside when you take those readings. The temp sensor is clipped on the evaporator. Sounds like your high side is low. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Diagnostic-Manifold-Refrigerants-Couplers/dp/B019W5LIVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532266465&sr=8-1&keywords=ac+guages+r134a&dpID=51p6DTOqCiL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Hello all. 98 OBW 250K 2.2. Noticed the Front driver control arm rear bushing is leaking. I can buy the bushing for $23. Looks easy enough to swap. After 20 years on the salt filled roads of PA should I expect it to be rust welded in place and should I just replace the control arm? Can it really just be unbolted with control arm left on car? Link to the part below https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Bushing-Left-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Hydro-FEBEST-SAB-001L-OEM-20201-AC110/222331100045?epid=210174452&hash=item33c3f75b8d%3Ag%3AIdIAAOSwC-taHu~g&_sacat=0&_nkw=sab-001l&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

Which side did you put the springs bolts on?

I have this exact issue on my 98 obw. I replaced starter with a remain. No issues for a few months. What is the starter relay modification?