msmithmmx

Ok, Its done.. It started up and runs..... BUT, I have a VERY noisy Lifter, its clicking REAL bad. It has Hydraulic lifters. I also feel like it has no accelerating power. Anyone ever see this after a head gasket replacement.

If you could not find any hydo-carbins in the coolant, I would say that your compression test is going to show normal. I would try the blue bottle (coolant conditioner) from the dealer. With your miles you have lucked out for this long. Hard call about fixing, if you could do yourself I would say go for it. You have a slow HG leak.

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Ok, I am a day away from finishing my 7 month head gasket job. What is the best way to get some oil circulating so I can prevent a dry start. I am thinking I should not just start cranking it. Any ideas?

WUB-WUB-WUB, thats awesome. That is exactly what mine sounds like. I have been driving mine for 30K. It is real bad at low speeds and is covered by the sound of the tires and the road at high speeds. Out of site out of mind. Not sure why I have not fixed yet. I have the parts.

Your dead on. Cost of the 2.5 with a blown HG is 50 to 200. Add in the valve and head job and your looking at another 200. Add is 300 for seals, belts and all timing components with water pump. Add another 150 in if you have a manual because it only makes sense to do the clutch while you are there. You at or around 800 to do the rebuild correctly by yourself.

I am installing the clutch on my 98 OBW 2.5. The manual reads " When installing the clutch cover on the flywheel, position the clutch cover so that there is a gap of 120° or more between “0” marks on the flywheel and clutch cover. (“0” marks indicate the directions of residual unbalance.) What if you flywheel does not have the "0" mark. Also there was no engine in the car when I got it. The Clutch pedal is in the floor. I can us my hand to Bring it forward but if I step on it it springs to the floor. If this normal?

How about the check valve on the booster hose. Take the hose off and run some WD-40 threw the hose until it drips out.

With what you are saying, typically a slow leak from the back is a rear main seal unless you can pinpoint a went seal around the pan.

The oil separator plate is also VERY prone to leaking. That is located back there as well. Before you put it in was it wet back there? Was the pan leaking when you had it out? When I have the engine out and if the pan shows any signs I leaking I always reseal. You can reseal while its in but it is a pain.

Is it only after the car has been setting overnight or several hour? Once the pedal goes back to firm does it ever come back?

I did the 2.2 and I would recommend it. Look for a wrecked legacy 95 to 99. Take the motor out and scrap the rest. You will get 100 to 175 in scrap if you let them pick it up. Insert the 2.2 and you could probably get 100 bucks for the 2.5. I am doing a 2.5 HG and I am finding out that it is very expensive to do it right. I have spent at least 400 in materials not to mention the cost of the engine.

I do not trust the mark's, I count the teeth between sprockets. That method has not failed me yet.

I thought that plate was only there to protect the belt during shipping.

what are the spec's of your tap?

If the rear main seal is leaking that much then it needs to be replaced. There are 2 ways to do it. Pull the motor or transmission. If I were you I would just have the clutch done and they could do it then. I would factor that repair in along with the axle you need to replace and the rust which is a huge bargaining chip. The dealer probably picked it up for 400 bucks at wholesale on some unlucky person who gave it up as a trade. 1000 to 1200 tops.

16 WRX rims fit on the OBW, you do not have any tire rub?

Have you seen the prices difference yet. My heated windsheild cracked last year. It was a 300 dollar difference. I went non-heated.

Its not if, its when are they going to leak. I replace those 5 dollar parts anytime I do an engine. Here is the puller I use for the cam seals. I have not tried on the crank because I take the pump off and it is easier to hit it out from the inside of the pump. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle-Shaft-Type-Seal-Puller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43996QQihZ018QQitemZ280268095488QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I have used 2 timing kits off of Ebay with no problems. For around 100 bucks you can get all of the idlers and belt.

I am finishing up the HG on my 2.5. I was ready to put the air intake and wireharnes back on top and decided to pull off the throttle body. Glad I did it was nasty, not surprised it has 200K. How would one clean the inside of the air intake manifold? It is very very gunked up. I guess I could spray engine degreaser in there and let it drip out. Anyone do this before?

Grossgary is right on the money. I would do the 2.2 swap. Your looking at around 2K for a shop to do that swap with parts. The head gasket is going to run you 1400 to 1800. I am not sure if you can do the work or not but if I had to pay someone to do it I would opt for a Headgasket from a shop that has done the Subaru HG before. Keep in mind that on this forum you will hear from lots of people that do their own work. I did the 2.2 swap in my garage with a tool set from Costco. Regarding the oil leak or smell, my guess is your rings are leaking. The shop you are at should be able to perform a leak down test to confirm this.

When I do cam seals I go flush with the openeing. I also grease them a little to make them slide in easier

scrwebaru2, where did you get an exhaust flange? I have looked everywhere

This has always baffled me.. Why would they give instructions in in-lbs. When 99% if the manual is in ft-lbs? 6) 3,4,5 and 6 (non turbo) to 132 in-lbs (divide by 12 for ft-lbs)