msmithmmx

I changed the rotors, pad and e-brake shoes, what a mess. All of the listed parts where completely shoot. I am a little embarrassed I let it get so bad. There was nothing left.

Yes, thats drain and refill, twice

For the trans flush, each time you drain you will need 4.5 quarts. I suggest you drain , drive a few miles and drain again. Shift it through all the gears while in the driveway.

It does read as..... "Prepare the new tapered roller bearing for installation. Do not remove the bearing stay (plastic piece inside the bearing) at this time" Note: Do not disassemble the bearing. Do not add any grease to the bearing.

I purchased the front wheel bearing OEM for my 98 OBW. It looks packed! should I use the factory greese or is there something better out there?

98 OBW 190K, I am replacing from driver side wheel bearing and figured I would do the ball joint while I am there. I am using a aftermarket ball joint and there is no grease in the rubber grommet. What grease shoud I use and how much?

Knowing that you are OK, I will be the first person to ask. Are you selling parts from it?

I am doing the work myself. There is no way they pulled the rotors off to check the shoes. They pulled the lever and got nothing.... Work starts tommorow on this car. My guess is 2 nights after work should do it. on my list of things to do all they wanted to do is replace the front tire. I am addressing the wheel bearing because it has been making anwefull noise for 20K miles and I sure is the cause of the inside of the wheel being bald

The end on the cat side is so thin from it rusing away it will not pull tight enough. I need to install a replacement flange. DOES IT EVER END

That could be next, I have a leak at the spring joint that I can't fix.....

I failed the PA State Inspection today here is the list. It cost me 31 bucks to fail and I have 2 weeks to fix it all or I get charged again. Just venting. My 98 OBW has 190K 1) Need new back brakes (70 bucks with rotors) 2) Need new parking brake shoes and adjustment (70 bucks) 3) Front left Wheel bearing (100 bucks) 4) Front left tire (ordered, 71 bucks) 5) Need duplicate vehicle regestration, because I lost mine (7.50)

Congrats..... You are taking that leaking water pump very well

I had the same problem. Take a nice size wood chisel and rubber mallet to the seam along the bell housing and engine along with some PB blaster

Remove the IAC valve and you can get right in there with a regular wratchet. With your free hand put a wratchet on the harmonic balancer, that will keep it steady as you remove them the 4 bolts.

I used that same type kit for my 2.2 and an Ebay water pump for 16 bucks. 6K miles and no problems. Just use OEM seals

You might not have smeared masking tape but those Brother labels will fall off, what is worse?

How many miles on the old bugger? Did you change or have any service done on the car before this started?

wow. did you pay with a credit card? Call them and get your money back I am sure the shop will not part with the money the took from you. Did they give you the old part?

Yours transmission was working before the swap, correct? Now its not. I don't think its electrical. There are lots of threads on this forum warning not to touch the torque converter during the swap.

Was it the hi pressure solenoid that was replaced? I am also thinking that when he pulled the engine he may have cocked the torque converter amd now its not sitting right.

Insane, I would drawl the line at 4K. Thats all it would get on Ebay on a lucky day. Have you tried there.

What makes it even worse is they probally stole it off someone for 2,500 bucks. That price is insane. This may be the wrong place to ask for a good price, we are always looking for deals.

Me to, I needed window molding so I pruchased a whole sub.

PM'd if you need the parts.

The starter has nothing to do with the cruise control. But the starter is near the cruise control cable, the may have stretched it out. Check to see if anything is loose