msmithmmx

I don't get it. I also have a identical OBW that is doing the same thing now that I looked. I can drive it for 15 minutes one day and feel the bottom hose and its hot. Today I drive it for 30 minutes and its cold as could be. It can never goes above 1/2 on the temp guage. Anyone seen this before. Maybe I am creating issues.

I swapped out a 2.5 for a 2.2. I did a new timing belt and waterpump during the swap. The engine starts right up and everything is working but for the cooling system. I keep getting air in the system. I originally had a OEM thermostat and I replaced it with a NAPA, no change. If I open the bleeder and cap I can get the air out and it will work for a day or 2 then I get more air in the system. Today I drove 35 miles without any coolant circulating. If it was not for it being 40 degrees outside I would of overheated. Any suggestions on a long term fix....

I replaced the the driverside master window switch and I am still having the same problem. If I use the auto down, after the window goes down every 5 seconds after it keeps trying to lower it. Could it be the motor? If I push it a tad up it stops trying to lower it.

You were right, I was able to knock them out with no issues. The engine is in

Nice, and yes they are the dow pins. I will be completing this swap this weekend. Thanks

First, I have done a 97 Legacy 2.2 into a 98 OBW 2.5 with no issues. I am doing a 95 Legacy 2.2 into a 97 OBW Limted, what a pain 1) I had to swap the complete AC Compressor mounting bracket (Done) 2) while seperating the engine from the trans which was rusted welded around the studs I cracked the stud of the bell housing (Driver Side), I don't think this will be an issue seeing all the other places I have real bolts to secure the two. Does anyone think I will have an issue there? 3) The real problem, the 97 OBW had a stud on the bell housing the passenger side. The 2.2 from the legacy that I am putting has a stud on the same side. Which one do I remove and how???? If I need to I will cut it off somewhere. I would rather remove it and still use, but at this point I don't care.

Yes it will work. When I swapped in a 2.2 I left the 2.5 airbox in.

I purchased that kit off Ebay. I just finshed installing it last week and will be installing the motor in a week or 2. I did not use one single OEM part other then then the water pump seal.

Wow, I did not think it could be done that way. I have allways done it from underneath the car

With that said, the person that traded that in must have known it had a busted head gasket. Looks like the dealer never test drove it outside the lot. Your golden with a 2 year warrenty. I would talk to the dealer and let them know that this might not be the best business descsion for them to keep fixing this over the next 2 years, thats if you want out. I would roll.

Thats the question, will they do it the correct way? 1)They should use the updated gasket from Subaru, OEM only for this. 2) The should have the heads sent out to be cut to make sure they are flat. When things over heat they can warp. They sound like they are straight shooters. They are many horror stories on this site of people who purchased from some used car lot and find out a day later they need a new head gasket (1500 dollar job). I would always be very very careful of a late 90's subaru sitting on a lot with a 2.5. You are very lucky they are fixing this or you are very very smart to get a warrenty when you purchased.

I just finished sealing an replacing the front of my 2.2 I put the belt on last night I and I am not 100% sure I got it right. The issue Looking at the engine from standing in front of it, the left cam sprocket has a little notch that should line up with the notch on the timing belt cover. When I think it looks as good as its going to get there are 45 teeth between that and the crank. When I move it a tooth over the sprocket is a little right of the mark on the timing belt cover. What is right? I made sure I was 44 teeth from the crank. I am using the notch not the arrows.

I have this same problem. I just purchased a new master switch for 10 bucks off Ebay. When I hit the auto-down it just keeps trying to lower the window when its down allready

I have one, IM me your address. Its on the house.

Seal and the shaft, the good thing is no damage due to a slipping screwdriver.

WOW, I just recieved that tool. I pulled out the passanger side cam seal in 10 seconds with NO damage to anything. This was well worth the 17 bucks I paid

The stealer-ship was wrong. You had the correct part. After seeing that the 2.2 and 2.5 are interchangeable I went ahead and found one on Ebay for 10 bucks. Thanks A lot for the help. I got the old one off with a screw drive and some PB Blaster.

I called the dealer, they gave me 13085AA080. They all look the same, can they really be different?

Would there be any diference between a 2.2 and 2.5 crank sprocket?

Lovely, looks like I will be replacing the sprocket due to a tab removal from a screwdriver. Not sure why I tried this... Thanks for the suggestions so far.

There is 6 or so of those tabs around the back rim of the pully, only one is busted off.

I decided to do it, remove the crank sprocket. Can someone tell me the easiest way to do this (95 2.2), It would really be helpful if I could see a pic of the tool that you have used to remove it or a model number. Also while trying to get a screwdriver behind the sprocket. I cracked off one of those little tabs that are on the backside of the crank. Should I now replace the sprocket? it does not look as if it does anything. It appears to little to help with balancing it, let me know...

I used the Permatex Ultra Grey High Temp, it was the grey stuff. Dry as a bone 2 years later

OK I am sold, the guy only has 3 left now. Hmmmm I wonder why...

I am going to think about it today, regarding that oil pump. Everything is bone dry and I am not sure I want to spend the time pulling off that crank pulley. It seems like I could be wrestling for days with it.