msmithmmx

It went to the dealer because it felt like the engine was missing. They replaced the coil pack to fix (400 bucks). While it was there they read the codes and it had a low reading from cat1 and a knock sensor code. Thats when the pile on started. I am calling the dealer about the HG, my guess is they did the recall (add coolant conditioner) and now want do the HG while they are replacing the rocker cover gasket. Thats where I came in and stopped the madness. I see how this could be painfull for some when your facing 2G's in repair. I gave my brother my 97 black OBW while I attack each issue. Question!!! There are 3 good dripping points from the bottom of the engine Question!!! Will a 98-99 forester Cats fit a 00 OBW. I am thinking yes. Also could the headgasket seal drip oil and still not have any type of overheating problems?

10 minutes of troubleshooting and I have found one large point of oil leakage. The driverside rocker cover is leaking BAD. Its tight in there but it can be replaced. Any tips in getting to it? I will replace that and move on. I It has a check engine light but I can't find my reader....

My brother dropped of his 2000 OBW 136K this AM at my house. Dealer said he has a busted HG and is also leaking oil from the where the engine meets the transmission. They also said his trans is bad and his cats are on the way out. NOW, I put that all aside and will diagnose each problem. 1) They said its not the oil separator plate and that it is bone dry!! Is there anyway to verify this without pulling the trans or the engine? How could they say this? There is just no way to see it. That is why I will need to verify everything they have said. This is the first 2000 I have ever worked on. One thing I noticed is this 2.5 only has 2 cams... I have only worked on 95 to 99. Any recomendations to troubleshoot bad cats?

I want the 10 minutes back I spent reading that article. I see the point but its only 10 PSI for a brake system thats 10 years old. It was under pressure for 15 minutes tops. The fluid that came out was the color of dirty motor oil. When I was done I did not have any air in the sytem. I must add the brakes are much better now

There is only one option. The Motive Power Bleeder (50 Bucks). It a pump that enables this to be a one person job. Worked like a champ

from that pic, you had to cut those bolts off. I just went through it, I had to break out the sawzaw, not fun

The OEM belts typically line up but its not a fact. The most important thing is the arrors on the crank and cam pully are pointing in the correct direction. Also that you have the correct tooth count between the crank and left and right cam pullys. I want to to say it's 44 1/2 on the left side and 40 on the right side. I amost made the mark mistake until I counted the teeth. COUNT THE TEETH

Damn, that front one always gets me. If it goes I will put an aftermarket on. I have 183K on it so it could be anyday.

Just installed a Bosch universal on my 98 OBW (62 bucks, NAPA). Runs perfect in my rear Cat. The only problem was the 20 minutes it took me to wire the connector back on. I saved 60 bucks that way.

PM Sent

PM Sent, how much for your tools?

Seems like cash is not a problem, go with a 2.5 and do the valve work.

OMG, I sprayed some WD40 in the pipe until it ran through and then blew some air in it. WOW, my brakes are 100% better.

Try Ebay, will other model's work http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-POWER-STEERING-LINES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33588QQihZ006QQitemZ160199724197QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

97 Obw 180k 2.2

His car is 12 years old with a 136K, why would you dump 2G's in a new motor? Knock is no big deal for an old car, I have had mine for the past 45K miles.

Its just a knock that you have, no big deal. My OBW 2.2 has a bad knock at startup. A knock is the norm, why replace?

Thats my problem to a T. Lovely, easy fix.

I called the dealer, my car is not effected. There was only one open recall and that was for a front spring adjustment.

The specifics, 97 OBW 2.2 with 180K. Here is my problem and it happens when it is REALLY cold outside (32 and below). The brake pedal at startup is very stiff, and will not stop the car. That goes on for 3-4 seconds then goes away never to return. If I let the car warm up for a few minutes then drive I have no issues. What I did::: The fluid was bad off, looked like used motor oil. I flushed the system, I used the motive pump I just purchased what a great job. That helped somewhat, now it has to be 20 degrees for it to happen. Am I loosing boost? Could I have a leak in the booster? Seems like its not charging at startup?. Generally the pedal is somewhat stiff but at start up it does not budge. I did a engine swap recently and I do not know if I had the problem before as I never drove the car with the 2.5 in it. I have another sub I did the sam swap on with no issues. Any thoughts. There is a 99 Forester at the local bone yard so parts will be cheap if I need them.

Not many, maybe one but you caught it. The 2.5 is the problem not the 2.2.

I dissagree with all. The only thing I recommend OE is exhaust and oil gaskets. I may add coollant hoses as the ones from NAPA and PepBoys are leaking on me. I just tightened back up and we shall see.

I am doing the drain and fill method. Should I do this again in a few miles to get all the fluid out that was in the converter?

How many miles should I put on the wagon before I flush again?

I drained my transmission fluid and I was allready to start filling it back up when I read the dipstick. The dipstick reads Dexron II, I purchased Dexron III. Does it make a difference? I have a 98 2.5 OBW Automatic