msmithmmx

Ok, I recieved the product. It was wonderfull. I was able to bleed the brakes myself with no help. It say to put in 64 ounces WAY TO MUCH. I used 2 12oz bottles.

Join the club, there are many stories just like yours on this forum. I would be VERY VERY carefull buying any 2.5 with 120K on the motor. It's not if but when will HG blow. Sorry for your pain, its sucks

I have the same job to do but up front. We need the hub tamer at its doable

Are you selling that fuel filter in that last pic, seems like it has some life left.

Its all done I also replaced the rear O2 sensor. Total cost of mid pipe and O2 sensor with new gaskets and bolts 280.00. I hope I saved some money, Does any one know what it would have cost? I do have some leakage at that flex joint, The book said 14lbs on the bolt. I am going to give it a day to settle in. I will report back

WAWalker, this adds up.... The nuts that I cut off did not look OEM, there could have been work in the past.

What is the torque spec of the rear O2 Sensor. I decided to replace while I have the cat off.

I paid 196.00 from NAPA, part # 280-907. Now I am off to the hardware store for another Sawzaw blade and some bolts to hook it all back up. I tried the dealer but all they had where the spring bolts and the gaskets. I looked into the original pipe, there is no honeycomb.

I attached 2 pics one the rear cat lined up and one with the front cat bolted to the y pipe. I think its just a resonator. Hear are some pics. The Front cat is still on the Y pipe

Its not a cat. The rear cat bolts onto the front cat directly each one has a O2 Sensor. That pipe you see in the pic has no O2 Sensor connection.

I went to NAPA an purchased the exhaust Mid Pipe for my 98 OBW. I took my sawzaw to the exhaust and removed it finally.. I pulled the original busted exhaust out and layed it next to the replacement from NAPA, they are a little different. Question, will this work? or do I have the wrong part. I was just at the dealer and they have both pics in their system but could not tell me if they were interchangeable

porcupine, how much was that tool?

I agree, have the HG's done if you have the flow, don't go with an engine swap. Use a known subaru shop and use OEM gaskets. If you can't do the work yourself you are really up the creek on the engine swap if something goes wrong 7 months later.

You said you had the engine replaced; did they use your alternator for the swap? Or did they provide their own? Maybe they gave you a busted alternator. But it sounds like your battery is dead if your starter is able to work with a jump.

I agree, you have a 9 year old car, do you want to spend 2 G's on it. That's the HG job with all the trimmings. But please don't let some dealer or garage steal it for 200 bucks to take it off your hands.

Regarding the engine replacement, on this forum some of us do them ourselves so the cost is low, total job might cost 300 to 500 dollars for parts. If you have shop do it your looking at 1500 for the motor and 1000 dollars in labor would be mu guess. I would not go with a 2.5 replacement I would use the 2.2.

From what you are describing you have a blown head gasket. I am 99% sure of this, as stated before you need one test to confirm this. Have the shop test the coolant for hydro-carbons. There are cases where a compression test will not catch a VERY slow head gasket leak so do not pay 200 bucks for one and have them tell you they found nothing so it must be your radiator and 600 bucks later it is still broke. DON"T DO IT. The question for you, do you want to sink to 2 G's into this car? I would swap the engine for a 2.2. With a busted head gasket the car is worth 700 to 800. Just the truth here

I am getting ready to buy the parts for my front engine overhaul and I am not sure what kit I need (belt and idlers). The engine is a 2.2 from a 97 Legacy. I am getting ready to by the kit of ebay and one seller states the 2.2 after 3/97 is different. How do I know what I need?

If I cut it in the middle will I be able to pull it out from the other end? Seems that its to big for the one side to pull through (side with the little nut)

I ordered mine last week. Check this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/269366-how-use-powerbleeder.html

I have a 98 OBW with a cracked exhaust mid pipe. I thought I would save a few bucks and swap myself. The bolts that connect the mid-pipe to the front section are completely rust-welded/deformed. Can I just take my Dewalt sawzaw to the middle and cut right through the bolts or is there some type of spacer there because I do not see any threads.

I see a flatbed there, did you have it towed?

May I ask, were you using a impact gun?

Will a 96 Legacy's front hubs fit my 98 Legacy OBW? I can get both for 50.00?

I am getting ready to sell my 97 OBW limited that I just installed a 2.2 in and I noticed the brake fluid is brown. I searched the web for instructions if it were to be a one man job and came across this DIY type tool. Has anyone used this before, if so how did it work? http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html