Sonicfrog

Well, the highway test came up aces. The temp stayed steady where it used to approach overheat levels. With the old radiator as clogged as it was, it is no surprise I was blowing radiator hoses. The backpressure at highway speeds must have been very high. Also, the car is running much better, with better acceleration at low speed. I suspect this radiator / heat problem was causing the less than stellar 18 mpg and made passing smog a chore.

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Real quick. My 87 GL-10 T-Wag is running hot. I'm leaning toward the radiator. I'm going to the J-yard tomorrow (!/2 off sale) and wonder what other rad would work if I find a good one? And how can you tell if a radiator is single or dual core? UPDATE: Went to the yard yesterday and got a radiator, A/C compressor, and a dryer to boot. First the radiator. I really, really lucked out:clap:. I found one on an 86 non-turbo that had been replaced. I could tell it wasn't stock because it still has the "Radicon" brand stamped on it and has a "Performance Radiator" sticker too. I did a poor mans pressure test on the old and new(er) radiators by standing each on its side, return side up, and putting a water hose into the opening so that the water would drain down and out of the cap opening. The old radiator backed up and spit water out the top (where the hose was) while the Radicon drained quite well with no back-up. I straightened out any bent fins with a jewel screwdriver and then blasted the radiator with compressed air then water for good measure. I installed it today and will give it the highway test tomorrow. Drove it to the store (7 mi city traffic) and the needle stayed at 1/8'th, which is already lower than the temp gauge had read with the old one. Now about the A/C compressor. There were eight Subies at the yard matching my model type, 85 - 91'ish. I assumed the compressor woul be similar accros the model line. WRONG! Of coarse I didn't know this until AFTER I pulled the wrong one and brought it home, only to find out the original is smaller than the one I got. Plus the line fittings to the new compressor were different than the old ones. So this morning, after studying the characteristics of the old one, I went back to the yard to exchange the one I pulled with the right one. The only problem was, none of the junked Subie had the right type compressor. So I ended up pulling and buying the proper A/C lines. I was just about to pull out of the Pick-A-Part parking lot when it hit me. I bet the brackets are different between the two cars. I went back in the yard and bought the brackets too. I was right! The two were different and that oversight would have meant another trip to the yard. I got the lines and larger compressor installed, and I got to tell you, it's a tight fit. But it's in. I didn't get enough o-rings for the joints (I'm replacing all the ones I can find), so I won't be able to vacuum and charge the system yet. By this week-end I will have the systen ready to charge and should know if the compressor works or not.

couldn't you rig a three way socket / lamp into the side marker, and use a combo marker / turn signal amber lamp???

Yeah, the harness is in an awkward place. Push in the sides of the glove box and the tabs come out of the slots, allowing the box to swing down toward the floor. Then you reach behind and up into the heart of the dash to ge to the harness. But it is kinda a long reach, and reminds me of those movies where a farmer has to stick his arms into a cows nether region to pull out the baby calf. Never though I'd write anything like that on the Subi list.

These are definitely junk yard items.

The clock face is held in place by two metal clips, one on each side. You can either pry it out from the front, or better, drop the glove box, reach under, and push it out from behind. That will also give you access to the molex plug, which will have to be disconnected. Once you have the clock out, there are four screws on the back that retain the back cover. Once removed, you will see on each end a little round, flat tab a little bigger that a pencil erasure. These are the bulbs, and they twist out, counterclockwise I think. If you are feeling adventureous, take out the next set of screws holding the clock together and you can change the color of the gel on the reflector in the clock. I changed mine from green (1987 and up) to orange (1984 - 87) to match my orange w/ red needled modified dash (ooops, forgot to post pictures of that last month - been busy). Good luck.

Murph is done and back on the road. The ride is different, but it's hard to explain how. It corners better with the RX springs in front. I may yet swap the back with the 88 ish Accord springs. I never realized how often the air compressor would have to run to keep the car afloat. I very much notice its absence. Later this month I am going to have a clearing house of my accumulated subie parts: a dead EA82-T, a dead 3 speed auto tranny, and the air shocks I just removed. I will let you all know when I am ready to sell, or swap for a good 5 spd hi / lo tranny and diff.

Update: I got the front springs off the afformentioned RX, and the back springs from an 89 GL wagon. I hit the J-Yard on Monday and after much struggle, got one spring from the RX, but didn't have time to finnish getting the other one out 'cause the Yard was closing. I had read on a USMB post that it's very easy. It would have been too - if I had bothered to bring a spring compresser and a breaker bar. Yesterday I rented a compresser and got the other springs. What I didn't realise, though, is that the new struts didn't come with the plastic boot / bumper assy. that covers the strut shaft, so, before work, I'm of to the Yard yet again to retrieve the ones I tossed aside.

Looks like Murphy the $500 87 T-Wag is getting a suspension make-over tomorrow. I started the car yesterday afternoon to make a run for some dog food. As has been the case since I bought the car last year, I started out waiting for the front shocks to inflate. I started driving down the road even though the suspension wasn't fully filled. About a half mile down the road the Hight Control light started to flash, and now the system doesn't work. When you start the car the compressor starts for a second, then stops and the HC light start flashes. Though I like the ride gained by the air suspension, I have decided to swap it out in favor of the strut system. I went to the JY today and found a few Subies, but they were either 2WD or high mileage, which means that those struts have seen a ton of wear. I decided that new parts for the suspension would be the best option as I plan on keeping the car for a long time, and want the best handling I can get. I ordered front and back Monroe Sensitrack struts from Auto Parts Distributor, one of my favorite parts shops here in Fresno, and they will be in tomorrow. The cost will be about $240 ish. While at the JY I found an RX with a 5 speed Full Time 4wd with Hi / Low option. As many of you know, I plan on swapping my icky 3 spd, push-button 4wd A/T with a 5 spd. Is this tranny in the RX a good and reliable type, or should I just stick with the normal 5 speed hi lo?

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Has anyone had luck pulling and using a compressor from the J yard? The copm on Murphy the 87 T-Wag is seized. I will need to replace the dryer too.

I second and third the motion - leave the belt covers off. Makes future repairs much, much quicker and easier. Plus, it just looks cool. I wouldn't throw them away though, just in case you decide later you're more comfortable with them on.

I ran into that post the other day. I love you guys.... in a long-distance platonic sense of coarse.

... and the sticker on the back window does say "Electro-Pneumatic Air Suspension"...

Bearing??? What bearings???? Didn't see that on the diagram.

Well. It's the next morning and, unfortunately, the drivers side bag was again deflated . Oh, well. At least I've fixed the leaks at the front solenoid valves.

This morning I did the classic soapy water test on the air suspention hoses that lead to the front struts. Both bubbled. Hopefully these little leaks are the sole reason why Murphy the $500 87 T-Wag always looks hung over in the morning. Since the drivers side is always deflated, the rear passenger side pivots upward. It looks really funny in our drive way, which is elevated a foot from street level. Our house is at the end of our street, so the strangly crooked car is quite noticeable a block away if you're driving toward our house. #64009 is the Kragen stock number of the little o-rings that fit on the air tubing that connects to the solenoid. The actual size is: Width = 1/16, ID = 1/8, OD = 1/4.

I had a white 81 with the third eye. It had some rust and ran on three cylinders, but I LOVED that car. It is still my favorite car I ever owned.

Yep. Sound like the H. G. Blues!

Welcome to the list Boozen (hope you're not Boozen-n-Drivin' ). Yes, those should be swappable. Will take some work though. This summer I will be swapping my current crappy 3 speed automatic with a 5 speed hi / lo tranny into Murphy, the $500 '87 Turbo Wagon. PS. The search function is a great tool, but it is better for specific searches. It may not be the best place to start for newbies. And they don't always work as well as you would like. If I type in SVX, I get nothing.

For the front speakers, the factory speakers are 4.5's. Normaly there is not enough space to put 6" ers, so you normally have to mount them outside of the panel. Last year while at the J yard I started tearing into a bunch of subie, you know, just exploring, I stumbled upon a solition for this problem. The speaker brackets from the doors of an XT places the speaker out about 1/2' allowing the window to clear. This allows you to mount the speakers inside the panel. I think the Legacy also has speaker brackets that will work for the front.... I think.

My analogue dash has that connection. When I'm done with everything I am planning to post a list of conversion tips. This will be one of them.

My oil pump gasket was the culprit behind my TOD. Of coarse a month after I replaced that I blew a head gasket. Must be Subies just can't handle the proper amount of oil pressure, which is Subaru built them to have the TOD (JK) .

And if you unscrew those units a few times, the part where the screws screw into will break . Superglue them and wire ties provided a fix.