Sonicfrog

Second GD's comment. I just did the crappy 3 speed A/T to 5 speed manual swap, and MAN, does it make a difference. I would get 19 highway MPG out of my turbo wag if I was lucky, and now I'm getting 24'ish. And the car is lighter and handles better.

OMG!!!! I have that same stereo! Thought I don't have a cup holder (yet) this is what I did with the trip computer.

What are the signs of a bad fuel injector. Murphy, the $500 87 now FT4WD T-Wag, is running good, but still has a bit of a knockish sound, and has a bit, just a bit, of a blank spot while accelerating. This might be due to damage from the recent overheating on the Grapevine grade in So Cal. It might have been there before, but was less noticeable due to the damping effects of the torque converter and crappy 3 speed AT.

I'm back from San Diego. Everything went well. Mileage is up from 19 to 24 MPG. The engine was running a bit rough on the trip down. I replaced the plug wires and that took care of most of the problem. There is still a bit of a knock eminating from the driver side. Either that cam is off a tooth, or i may have lost a valve spring retainer during the HG job. While I was putting the cam assy on, one of the rocker arms was crooked. Instead of taking the cam assy back off and starting over, like I should have done, I turned the cam and the rocker arm snapped into place. That could have caused one of the retainers to pop out. I'm gonna do a little teardown this afternoon to see if I can't find the problem. On the way down I ended up driving through some nice thunder storms. The Full Time 4 Wheel Drive worked great, even driving through some pretty mean downpours.

I just got done putting in the 2 core rad and had the same problem with fan clearance. My solution was to hack saw about an 8th of an inch off the studs that hold the blade onto the clutch.

Murphy Lives!!! It took a while, but I got the back halfshaft installed. Makes a huge difference. The wagon, thanks to the lighter transmission and the RX springs in front, handles quite well. That FT4WD tranny must be much lighter that the auto 3 speed. It's hard to explain, but the car just feels lighter. Tomorrow I will install new plugs, wires, and disty cap / rotor, then I am off to San Diego. I am curious to see the difference in gas mileage of the 5 speed compaired to the crappy 3 speed auto tranny.

All Done... almost! Last night I got everything together and turned the key.... no start, as in no starter. I figured the problem was the neutral saftey switch. I wasn't sure where the circuit was, so I posted the question here last night. This morning I got the answer (two black striped wires on the shifter) and as soon as I closed the curcuit,voila, Murphy started :banana:. I did have to move the disty over a tooth, but I got the timing much closer this time because I had the good sense to mark the disty before I tore everything apart. I had some pretty mean TOD forat first, but I drove her for a while and the TOD went away. Man I love the way the FT4WD shifts. Here are some issues I had to deal with during the rebuild process: After installing the new dual core radiator I found there was not enough room to mount the fan assembly onto the water pump. I solved the problem by cutting about 1/8'th of an inch off the studs that hold the fan blade to the chutch. I still may have bent a few rad fins, but I got the fan on OK. Each time I've worked on the engine, I've had to deal with the increasingly brittle PITA blow-by hose that runs right behind the A/C compresser - the one that ends in a tee fitting that goes to the PCV valve. I scraped the factory hose and replumbed that side completely. The new hose runs from the valve cover, angles back toward the master cylinder and gently curves around the disty back toward the PCV valve. The tee is connected just before the valve, and the third leg slope right up to the plastic air suction manifold. It's pretty. Here is a pic. The hose runs behind the disty. I noticed a vibration while driving in normal AWD mode. It starts around 20 MPH. As soon as I felt it I knew exactly what it was. The driver side rear half shaft boot had been frakked up since I bought the car 1 1/2 years ago. With the old crappy 3 spd A / T the car was always in FWD so the axle never had any stress on it. With AWD the axle was showing just how badly worn it had become. I removed it tonight and my suspisions are confirmed. It's in really bad shape. I will get a replacement tomorrow, then I will be officialy done with RX'ing the GL-10.... for now!!!

When in college I used Barrs Stop Leak on my honda's with success. But the cars I used it in were beaters. Plus, since I was in college I had no money, time or garage to do serious wrenching. And I had back-up transport, a Nashiki 18 speed bike, complete with interlocking shoes / pedals. When the car(s) would konk out, predictably every six months, I would be pedaling for the next four. Man, my legs were HUGE! You're moving. That sucks --- for me. I finally find a USMB Subie Brotha in my neck-o-d-woods, and you go and move on me. Thanks Alot !

This is the correct answer. The two black wires, with yellow and white stripes, sit side by side in the middle of the large molex connector

When looking at the lever on the tranny, is the diff lock engauged when the lever is toward the front of the car or toward the back?

OK, everything is connected in Murphy, the $500 87 T-Wag, formerly dragging a 3 speed auto tranny, now sporting a FT4WD tranny:grin:. The one little problem - the neutral saftey switch. Does that circuit extend to the shifter itself? I thought the switch was connected to the tranny itself but I closed each circuit going to the tranny and no starter activation. Any tips?

Daeron - just go ahead and burst my bubble:rolleyes:! I was thinking of the power output reduction caused by stupid emission controls added in the 260 model, which brought the HP down into the 130's. Plus the posted HP on the engines were higher than the accepted SAE standards I think.

Oh yeah? Try this! Fixed a hole in a carburator diaphram with a baloon and rubber cement. Fixed a broken eyelet on a clutch cable by creating a hook with a wire hanger. I used a Q-Tip to fix something, but I don't remember what, so I guess that doesn't count!!!

Don't the OEM gaskets have that rubber lining imbeded within the gasket? It seems that would weaken the distribution of pressure on the gasket surface.

Got the Fel-Pro gasket. Thanks. As of tonight, the heads are on as are the cam shafts. Tomorrow I will put on the PITA valve covers, distributor, 2 core radiator, turbo and exhaust bits and fire the now manual 5 speed Murphy up for the first time.

Are the head gaskets identical for the EA82-T vs the normal EA82???? I just had to fudge one of mine up and need a replacement. I would really really like to finish this car today and know the regular EA82 gaskets are available.

I could use both, one for the auto tranny and one for the FT4WD.

As many fellow USMB'ers know, I'm in the middle of the auto to FT4WD tranny swap. Is it possible to use the same wiring that went from the orange 4WD push button on the auto shifter to the 4WD actuator on the crappy 3 speed auto tranny for the locking diff switch curcuit? If so, I need the wiring diagram for the auto tranny if anyone has it.

Ooops. Wrong switch.

If the car is an automatic, then the switch on the diagram is probably the one that sits about the accelerator pedal. When you floor it, a tab on the back of the pedal hits the switch, which triggers the tranny to go into passing gear. I had a tranny that wouldn't go into passing gear, and one of the diagnostic suggestions was to check to se if the switch was working properly.

Welcome B-5! I had a rarely seen 79 810 coupe about ten years ago. Had the 280Z engine and drive train. It was a fun car to drive, but man, that rear end was all over the place whenever it rained. I had to let it go due to rust and suspension problems. Thats way cool you're starting out with an RX. The power from the turbo is only a few horses shy of the 280z's 125 hp. Plus the RX is a lighter car, so you'll be having some fun. I am on Subie #4 - 94 Legacy wagon named "Red", and #3, Murphy the $00 87 Turbo Wagon is in my garage getting a new transmission, switching from a crappy 3 speed atuo to the Full Time 4 Wheel Drive 5 speed with the locking differential. I also installed the front coil springs from an RX. And when I find one, I will be swapping in a rear Limited Slip Diff. from an RX as well. When I'm done, my GL-10 wagon will be more RX than than GL

I threw a couple of washers between the assy. and the floor to act as spacers on the two lower bolts. This looks like it gave a little more clearance. I tried it out with my foot and tha travel seems OK. But I guess I won't really know until I finish the car and start driving.

DAY 3 - Have more work today and again started early. I managed to get the halfshaft on the tranny stub. It was just a matter of finding the right angle of attack. The stck shift is installed too. I forgot how short the throw is on the shift. Thats all for now. Today I will post some video bits documenting the job. I worked more than I thought and only had a few hours to work on Murphy. I pulled the old auto pedal assy. (which includes pulling the steering wheel of coarse) and installed the new clutchy one. But I ended up taking the new one out to check if the accel pedal was tha same as the old one. The travel distance to the floor seemed awful short. Also, I had to dissasemble my dash because I couldn't get the speedo cable from the FT4WD tranny to stay on. So it was kinda a two-steps-forward-one-step-back kinda day.

I was in the process of installing the new(er) pedal assy. for the FT4WD conversion, and when I pushed the accelerator pedal down there wasn't much travel at all - it hits the floor pretty quickly. i didn't check the travel of the old one before I pulled it, so for all I know, the travel is the same, and my foot is just used to the short travel. I pulled the new pedal assy. from an 89 wagon. Mine is an 87. Besides one not having a clutch pedal, was there any difference between that assembly for the auto vs the standard tranny, or across similar model years?

Great responses! This thread should go in the USRM.