Sonicfrog

See. And all you tall guys used to make fun of me in high school for being short. My tiny feet have no problem with the peadals. So HA!!! PS. Reaching the pedals, on the other hand....

OK. This should do it: 1..2 X|X|O| O |O|O O|O|O| ... |O|O 1 = Green w/ black stripe 2 = Black w/ white stripe I didn't bother to check if there was a second circuit last night.

What brand do you recomend for a 94 Non Turbo Legacy. Do they make a dual core?

a low-cost option is to simply replace the bearings, if you can get the assembly taken apart. It is more than possible, but I don't know how to do it myself. It's easy, but it's not a road side repair. They also cost the average consumer more than they should. I work with pool and spa motors, and some use the exact same bearing as the idler. Ten years ago, I had mine go out while driving to San Diego. I was about 60 mile out of town when the pulley froze. I replaced the bearing for 90 cents, but paid about $90 for the tow back home before I could do the repair.

I have the week off for spring break (teacher - our pay may be low, but we get lots-o-vacation time). I will be swapping out the engine on the 94 Alpine wagon. Will let you guys know how things go. PS. Got the EJ 22 engine from a company called Attarco. $550 plus tax. I bought an EA 82 from them ten years ago, and they've treated me well. As they did on the last purchase, they're delivering for free. Will be here on Wednesday. UPDATE: It's tuesday night. I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve! The engine should be delivered sometime between 10 and 2 tomorrow. Have the parts and gaskets on order, and they will also be here tomorrow. There is a chance I could have Red running by tomorrow night. But that is asking that everything goes without a hitch - fingers crossed.

I have the week off for spring break (teacher - our pay may be low, but we get lots-o-vacation time). I will be swapping out the engine on the 94 Alpine wagon. Will let you guys know how things go. PS. Got the EJ 22 engine from a company called Attarco. $550 plus tax. I bought an EA 82 from them ten years ago, and they've treated me well. As they did on the last purchase, they're delivering for free. Will be here on Wednesday.

I may just get one from the dealer ($40 probably :-) ). Every time I try to get a rotor from the "KragenNapaZones" they always bring out three or four different rotors, none of which are the right ones.

Can you replace it with a shaft that takes a keyed rotor instead of the screwed up one? PS. I just posted this. That was the fastest reply EVER! PPS. I don't think the threads are shot, could be wrong though. I'm getting some lock tight today.

I had that too! It was a long time ago, but I believe my problem was a bad O2 sensor. It didn't throw a code either. Good thing about that is they're pretty cheap, $20ish.

OK. I've had it. For the second time in two months, the rotor screw decided to take some time away from it's job. Is their any brand of rotor for the GL-10 that has a guide key and doesn't need a stupid screw????

I just did a continuity check on my old crappy 3 speed auto tranny shift lever (I keep most everything after a mod, in case I have to switch things back). On the molex connector, the two wires in question seem to be a brown wire at terminal 9, and a black wire at terminal 11. It should look something like this. O|O|O| O |O|O O|O|X| ... |O|X ........9 ........ 11 Hope this makes sense.

Dammit! Still didn't get it done! My family is going to be in town this week and I spent today cleaning up the house (steam clean rugs, clean b-rooms, etc). I WILL get the instructions tomorrow. I promise!

Ooops! Didn't get to it today. Had to work the real job. Will do it tomorrow.

If the box is corroded, then you almost certainly have a melted wire or two on one of the connections in the back of the box.

I've got the same problem, and I'm fixing it today. I'll give you the heads-up on the solution. PS. Isn't it sooooo much more fun driving the car with the 5 speed.

I didn't use LED for backlight, but I did mount red ones behind each needle. It worked out pretty cool, but it was not easy and somewhat time consuming. I would have a spare dash handy just in case something breaks!!! :-) The placement of the LED's is tricky, and though it's hard to tell from the pic, the Volt meter neelde seems to give the best high contrast color. The speedo and tach need two LEDs to get the best results, as the neeldes are bigger. Here's more info. I have some pics documenting the process and will post them... if I can find them.

I take it you're talking about the locking diff switch on the Full Time 4 WD system. Are you sure the switch is bad? Mine has the same problem shifting back to unlocked position. If you look under the hood, just behind the shock housing, you should see two small solinoid vacuum switches - look for the vac hoses. These channel the vacuum to a double sided diaphram that either pushes the lever via a cable to activate the locking center differential, or pulls the lever to deactivate it. On my car, one of them is D E D dead. But even if I switch the hoses mine still won't unlock. The likely culprit for me is uneven tire wear. On my old shift on the fly Hi / Lo 4 WD Subies, if my tires were old and worn, I would have a hard time shifting back into 2 WD mode. On my GL-10 w/ the FT4WD tranny, my diff lock would be very difficult to shift back into normal mode. I have to either use an air compressor connected to the correct vac line, or get underneath the car with a pair of plyers to force the lever back into normal unlocked mode. Just a reminder, you should never shift into 4 WD mode on dry pavement. It's sooo tempting to do from time to time, but it's bad for the tranny.

Just a thought: would that model have a throttle position sensor?

Hey All. I am usually on the "Old Gen" list, but will be spending some time over here now as the dead $300 94 Alpine Wagon will soon, after a six month beaurocratic nightmare, have my name on the title. Here is some background from six month ago. Since this will be the first ej22 I've worked on, I will be popping over to ask advise on the engine and stuff. Here's todays question: Do the ej22's have an EGR valve?

Reread the post above. The great thing about this car is that the code are displayed without the need of a special gadjet. I have an 87 GL-10 that also wouldn't smog. Replacing the Ox sensor and manifold temp sensor did the trick for me... just barely. How hot does the engine normaly run? If it runs on the hot side, the emissions will be thrown off quite a bit. I found out later my radiator was not keeping the engine cool enough, which will make the ECU, the brain that controls the fuel mixture and injector timing, adjust the fuel mixure to rich to try and get the optimal preformance power wise.

Here is a pic of Murphy, the infamous $500 87 Turbo Wag! Mods: Dual Core Rad. Ditched Crappy 3AT for FT4WD 5 SPD. Swapped Air Suspention with Monroe SensaTrac and RX Springs. Digi Dash is history - 86 Analogue w/ Red LED backlit needles. That is Murph so far. Here is the "new" Roo - Red! It's a $300 94 Alpine w/ a dead engine. Some of you may remember I bought it in Sept of last year. Well I haven't hardly touched it because there was a registration snaffue. It has taken nearly six months to get the car legaly registered in my name, but the waite is almost over.

I forgot to mention that the breakdown was at about 1:30 in the morning. Had to call AAA for a tow. I was only about 1 + mile from my guitarists house, but I had all my band equipment in the car, so I couldn't leave the car and walk home. If I wasn't so exhausted after the gig, I might have thought to check the disty. Of coarse it would have helped if I would have had smoe tools and a flashlight in the car. This is something everyone should carry with them. With all the little cubby holes and the large storage area in the rear, it's not as if there's no place to put it. I thought about bringing my tools with me before I left Fresno on Friday, but, for some silly reason, I chose not to this time. I, of all people, should know better.

Yep! That was it!!! Apparently Code 4 means check the distributor stupid. Sometime during the day, though still in a tired daze from all the rocking and rolling we did last night I'll post some video soon), I had an epiphany. I had checked for spark going to the plugs, but I never confirmed that the spark was occuring at the right time. At that moment I had a flashback to myself thinking what a horrible design that was, having a little screw hold the rotor in place. Sucks to remove. I unscrewed the disty cap, and voala, there was the screw sitting at the base of the shaft.

Oh, I forgot to add a detail. Went out this morning to diagnose. Found one of the injectors was leaking some gas and thought maybe the fuel pressure drop could be problem. It couldn't be that easy. Turns out the fuel hose clamp was loose and I tightend it - leak fixed. Car not so much. But at least I know I' getting gas. What I can't tell is if the injectors are firing. I'm leaning toward a faulty ECU, due to wierd code.

I'm in San Diego for yet another gig. driving back to my guitarists house after the show, Murphy, the $500 87 T-Wag just died. No noise. The belts are OK (no covers installed TG), and I have spark. Checked the ECU. It blinks four times @.3 sec intervals. Anyone seen this. I have to get home to Fresno in the near future. Someone help me!!!!!:-\