Sonicfrog

God, I love YouTube!

man o man o man o man o man..... squared:grin:

Just watched his little video. Never a cop 'round when you need one.

I would bet he just JB'd it while still on the car. That's what I'd do.... JK!

T - I am INSANELY jealous!!!! :clap: Oh, well. I did get my 94 Alpine Leggy for $300, so I'm happy. I'll be happier when I take it up to the snow! Anyway, welcome fellow fence jumper:)

Either way, unless there is something really wrong with it (water damage from Katrina) a 94' turbo Leggy, for $995, thats a pretty darned good deal!!! I'd take it!

I wonder if previous owner screwed with the disty timing? It's real easy to set it 180 deg. from TDC. I actualy got mine to run, but it ran crappy. I would line up the cams and recheck the disty setting. I have blown head gaskets on Murphy, the $500 87 T-Wag, and every time I have put it together, I have had a heck of a time geting 'er going again, thus the nickname "Murphy"!!! And it's usually (always :-)) my fault.

It's a twin turbo from an 84 Supra? PS. I was going to say it's from a TT 280ZX, but I think Datsun / Nissan used non painted aluminium valve covers on those.

Zapa, add Fresno to the list! I've got a spare room and a driveway full of Subarus! I think Subies have such a strong following because they are so well designed and functional. I have been playing bass guitar in various bands for 20 plus years, and I can't begin to tell you how much I appreciate the capabilities of a Subaru, even one that is fully loaded with bass / guitar / PA, and lighting equipment. I have had periods in my life where I didn't have a Subie at my disposal (yes, those were terrible times inded), and I can say from those experiences that my other cars, though capable vehicles all, were not happy being used as a gig-mobile. My 94 Toyota pick-up felt a little unstable at highway speeds. In my current Soob, Murphy, the $500 87 Turbo-wagon, it's sometimes loaded to the gills, and the car seems to say "So what, this is all you got?". I actually have FUN driving to gigs in the mountains during snow storms, and can't wait for this winters gigs as I have swapped the crappy 3 speed auto tranny with a FT4WD (Full Time 4 Wheel Drive) 5 Speed Manual with a locking differential. Look out winter, here I come!!! (yes I'll contain my excitement and drive responsibly... but just barely:headbang:). I have owned many cars, and liked each for different reasons. My first, in 1985, was a little faded blue '75 Honda Civic. That car was a blast to drive, so toss-able, but couldn't hold much in the back (though God knows I stuffed the thing as much as possible). Then there was the '79 Accord. A bit less toss-able, but comfy to drive. Then I got my first Subaru, a white 1980 wagon, complete with rusty doors and a third eye (fog light hidden under the Subaru logo on the grill). Was short on power, but BOY, that suspension could handle anything you threw at it (probably the most rugged I've ever had). I've had a 2 door '79 Datsun 810 (rare find) that had lot's of power but a loose back end. Had a few trucks. Sure they could haul stuff, but man were they boring. Murphy has all the attributes I loved in my previous cars, with none of the downsides. Each of us has different reasons for loving these cars, and belonging to the "Cult of Subaru" (we sacrifice Honda's at the alter). To sum up, I guess my reason for loving these cars, especially the 2'nd generation GL's, is that I can own one cheap car that is practical, is easy to fiddle with, can go anywhere and can provide such a fun driving experience.

Yeah, I gotta say the 6disk changer is pretty sweet!

What a sweet deal. Forget about your wife... I'M GONNA KILL YOU!!!!

Got the stereo 2004 WRX stereo install, and in worked with the exception of two problems. The dimmer didn't work at all. If fact, when I turned the lights on the stereo lighting shut off. I tested the leads leading to the stereo, and it turns out either the wiring diagram for the reverse harness or the Legacy harness had the illumination + and - backwards. I reversed the wiring and that problem is solved. The other problem is that the front and rear fade is reversed. If I turn down the rear speakers on the stereo, the front get turned down instead. This is also an easy fix and will do it this weekend. When I do I will also check and make sure the + and - are correct going to the speakers, just in case.

Thank God you don't live in CA. It took me almost six months to finally clear the title to Red, the $300 Legacy Alpine wagon. Oh, speaking of, I'm installing a 2004 WRX stereo into Red today.

What is the history of the car? Was it running when you bought it? If the head gaskets were replaced recently, then timing does sound like a good thing to look at, especialy if you're no longer throwing codes. Oh, and double check to make sure that the rotor is fastened to the distributor shaft. The turbo's used a little screwto hold it in place.

Thanks for the WRX stereo swap idea. I was actually looking for suggestions on rear speakers for Red, the $300 Alpine Wagon, but now I'll have to do the stereo swap too! My stock 94 player works OK, but is prone to skipping and doesn't handle scratches well. I'm off to eBay. PS. The 94 stock stereo does play burned CD-R's, as long as they'rer burned in .wav format. I was going to Shaver Lake in the Sierra Nevada's yesterday and decided to try and play a CD-R. I was surprized and please that it played as I wasn't expecting it to.

Been there, done that! When you do this conversion, I highly recomend replacing clutch assy.(if already standard) and rear main seal, even if it's not leaking. 1988 subaru dl push button 4wd I assume that is a standard 5 speed and not an automatic 4 with push button 4wd. If it's the latter, you will need to get a pedal assy with a clutch pedal, plus a flywheel for a standard tranny.

I don't know about the Baja, but the worst time I ever had changing plugs was on the mates 1999 Mercury Cougar. It has a transverse mounted V6, which they stuffed into the engine compartment with absolutely no room to spare. Three of the plug sockets are butted up against the firewall. Thank God I have smallish hands. Oh, and the alternator is underneath the engine and almost impossible to remove without removing the passenger side halfshaft and part of the exhaust system, which makes it a costly repair. Ours went out 3 times in five years, probably due to the excess heat from the exhaust (alts don't like heat). It's a fun car to drive, but working on it was a ***************. Sold that car last year and now have the $300 94 Alpine Wagon.

Oh, the oil pan WOULDN'T budge. I didn't apply too much force as I didn't want to bend the pan. I'm quite sure the leak is at the oil separator plate.

What's it gonna hurt??? Have you seen the price of oil lately? Since I put the oil in upon installation, I have driven the car about 15 miles max.

Hey All: Sorry I've been away. You know the story... busy. As some may recall, I have a 94 Legacy Alpine Wagon that received a newer engine. There has been a nice oil leak at the back of the engine. I pulled the engine out today expecting to find a leaky rear main seal, figuring I had screwed it up when I installed it a couple of months back. Well, the RMS was nice and dry, and it looks like the oil is coming from the plate to the right (passenger side) of the crankshaft. I have a few questions: 1. What is that plate called? 2. Does it take a gasket, or will silicon handle the job? 3. Since I thought I would be doing the RMS I didn't drain the oil. Can I fix this leak without draining the oil? When I was prepping the engine a couple of months back, I had intended to change the oil pan gasket, but I could not get the oil pan off. It wouldn't budge at all. It looks like they used the same factory sealant on the plastic plate thingy, and anticipate breaking the it trying to get it off. PS. Murphy, the $500 87 T-Wag still has a tranny leak. I don't look forward to splitting the FT4WD 5 speed (w/ locking diff), but that is a project slated for the fall. I might see if someone wants to swap that for a regular 5 speed high / lo tranny when the time comes.

As some may recall, I have a 94 Legacy Alpine Wagon that received a newer engine. There has been a nice oil leak at the back of the engine. I pulled the engine out today expecting to find a leaky rear main seal, figuring I had screwed it up when I installed it a couple of months back. Well, the RMS was nice and dry, and it looks like the oil is coming from the plate to the right (passenger side) of the crankshaft. I have a few questions: 1. What is that plate called? 2. Does it take a gasket, or will silicon handle the job? 3. Since I thought I would be doing the RMS I didn't drain the oil. Can I fix this leak without draining the oil? When I was prepping the engine a couple of months back, I had intended to change the oil pan gasket, but I could not get the oil pan off. It wouldn't budge at all. It looks like they used the same factory sealant on the plastic plate thingy, and anticipate breaking the it trying to get it off.

Just wanted you guys to know that Murphy's younger brother has been resurected from the dead!!!

Red, the $300 Alpine Wagon, is running!!!!!!! I had issues with the crank and camshaft sensors that I discussed here. Turns out not only was the cam sensor bad, but, they were also miswired; the crankshaft sensor was wired into the camshaft circuit and vise-versa. I went to the boneyard yesterday and got a cranshaft sensor with the lead still attached. When I tried to install it I found that the wires on my engine were leading to the wrong sensor. This may have been my fault. I wanted to use the sensors from the newer engine because it had quick disconnects at the sensors, and I though that would be cool to have, which meant I had to splice the quick connect ends onto the wires leading to the sensors. The wires to the cam sensor had been cut and spliced, but I don't remember if the crank sensor was also modified, but regaurdless, after I had connected the connector, the wires were backwards. I rewired the cam sensor to the right lead, installed the new crank sensor, and the engine still wouldn't start. The ECU was throwing a cam sensor error, so I replaced it with my spare. Still the same result. I wondered if both my cam sensors could be bad. Just for the heck of it, since they both work in the same manner, I installed one of my spare crank sensors into the cam position (it is smaller than the cam sensor so it fit in the sensor bracket). Turned the key... and vroom. SUCCESS!!! There are still some things that need to be done with Red, and I will discuss that soon. But right now I have to get into my attic before it gets too hot, and fix a ceiling fan that is falling through the ceiling.

... and I guess I'm not the only one who has re-re-re-timed the car cause he (or she) thought there was something wrong:dead:.

On the 1'st gen legacy, I have lined up the marks, installed the timing belt, then cranked the engine a few times. Now I notice something curious. The three timing marks, two on the cams and the one on the crank, are still in sync and line up at the top, BUT, the belt marks are a few teeth off. Is this normal, or does this mean I have the wrong belt? The belt seems to fit the same as the old one, but I've not seen this before.