mbrickell

When I open the door and get in, I hear: CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK Like a clicking on/off from the rear area, cargo bay somewhere, with random intervals. It might do it 5-6 times or so. Trying to think what would cycle like this without a predictable interval... I should specify. Happens before I have even put the key in.

On the wiring diagram, there is a switch, wiper motor, and then some kind of control unit for intermittent wipers. I got the switch and motor from a junkyard car, but could not find anything that seemed to be an intermittent wiper control unit. If someone can tell me where this is specifically, thank you. oh, sorry, doh... 1990 Loyale 2wd stick wagon

Will do with the MAF. I got a MAF out of a junkyard 92 the other day, and switched them out, no difference. Either they are both bad or both good. I will try driving with the coolant temp sender unplugged and the engine hot and see what gives. thanks for your replies.

The other day while troubleshooting this, I think I did unplug the temp sensor and the idle sped up considerably. I plugged it back in, and idle returned to normal. ( warm )

I'll search, thanks. Interested!

Thought this was probably too involved but intrigued...website or thread where someone has done and documented this you know of?

Good call, 02 sensor replaced and is tight.

Too bad you aren't out here. I saw a 4wd gen 1 Justy at pick n pull the other day. Good parts source for you.

The over rich mixture it provides is inconsequental until warm. I thought, perhaps erroneously, that most issues with TPS, AFM, would result in lean condition. Leaning out sort of fits my symptoms. Feels like the car is not getting enough fuel. My tailpipe is not sooty nor do I notice smoke either. For some reason I get the feeling that too rich is not the issue, but again, who am I to say. I might make a run down to pick n pull tomorrow and see if I can get a TPS. I hate parts like this used though since they are typically off a car at least as beat up and miled out as mine, and no way to know if THEY are bad. I think there is a 92 Auto and an 87 Auto AWd down there... thanks matt

For instance, my in-laws live in farm country, Kansas, on rock roads. Sometimes extra ground clearance would be nice. It is not a matter of traction, a matter of not knocking your oil pan out. Rock roads with high crowns in center, etc. An extra inch or two would not hurt to have.

TPS goes smoothly through range of voltage when tested. However, resistance stays at 2k ohms or so instead of dropping to 700-100 as per Haynes. I don't understand how a TPS symptoms would exhibit when warm and not cold. I can understand this with CTS or AFM, O2 sensor, etc. TPS I would think would either be faulty or not independent of engine temp...

I had a carbed Justy, 87 or so, carb gave issues. I have heard to avoid ECVT like the plague of the devil. Just hearsay. I know that stuff like struts, etc, for my Justy was hard to find and pricey at the dealer. Fun little car as long as you don't hit a stray dog, cat, or possum crossing the road and total it and kill yourself. Not really worth wearing a seat belt in, so take it out to save weight as it won't help you anyway the car is so small and light. Cool thing is, you can just about reach out from the drivers seat and open the fuel door ( without getting out )! Kind of fun to drive in a wierd way.

Thought about that. I assume one would cut a hole, gut it, weld plate back in?

I know, I know, but sometimes I just get the urge to do something wierd because I can, to have something out of the norm. Possible to lift my 90 Loyale Wagon 2wd stick? Where to find kit if so? Has it been done? Thanks!

Question: Something under the front of my 90 Loyale is buzzing-rattling like crazy at certain RPM ranges. 2k-2500 rpm or so, gets real loud then dissipates by 3k-3500. Same on decel. I got up under there and cannot find any obviously loose heat shielding. Sounds like a POS going up my street. Moms are taking their kids inside. Well, maybe not that bad, but... Are the cats known to fail? I have had numerous high mileage VWs with ne'er a cat issue. The Soob has 125k. Recommended source for replacement as a unit ( header pipes through cat assy )? Assuming there is something wrong. Test? Thanks Matt

I see from searching there is a lot out there regarding Loyales that run poorly cold and well when warm. Car in question is 90 Loyale Wagon 5spd 2wd.( SPFI ) Mine is the opposite. Go out first thing in the AM, runs perfect for 2-3 minutes. Cold acceleration smooth as silk and peppy. Once the gauge needle shows any temp at all, hesitation and stumble on acceleration, estimate 20% power loss from cold condition, although car does run and accelerate, but feels labored compared to easy free accel feel cold. Feels like the car is unshackled when cold and breathing through a straw at times when hot. Highway cruise is fine when hot. When accelerating from stop you notice small "spots" in the rpm range where car seems held back. New o2 sensor. TPS goes smoothly through range of voltage when tested. However, resistance stays at 2k ohms or so instead of dropping to 700-1000 as per Haynes. Idle speed hot +-700 rpm Idle speed cold +- 2000 rpm Hottest inside temp gauge reads is 1/4 from bottom. Parts on order from Chaplins include fuel filter, t-stat, dist cap, rotor, coolant temp sensor. Soon to arrive and hopefully address issue! Ideas?

I get heat. I would not say it roasts you out at all, but it is say a 5 on a scale of 1-10 on the car heater index. When it was 15-20 deg out lately, the car was just warm enough outside with the fan on 3, but you had to leave it there, the car would not actually get warm enough to make you uncomfortable.

The fuel tank is plastic or something similar? If so... Couldn't you drain the tank, find some kind of plastic or poly fluid fitting at a big hardware store, gently tap it ( I mean thread, not hit ) it into the tank wall after draining the tank, reattach your hose... If the tank is metal, you can have it repaired at many radiator/gas tank repair shop kind of places easily. Or, really, there are Soobs like yours from time to time in salvage pick and pull type places around here. I'd go down there, you could take a tank off carefully, they wouldn't charge much. Of course, I don't know how hard to get one off, but can't be THAT hard.

some of the old VWs also had an LED ( red ) that would blink when the temp got close to cooking something. very useful, hard to miss a red LED blinking in the middle of your gauge cluster. if you miss that, you should probably turn in your license! perhaps you could adapt something like that. an alarm is a great idea. a really great idea would be an audible oil pressure and coolant temp alarm. actually, now that i think about it, my vw pickup has an audible oil pressure buzzer. no temp buzzer though, but a blinking light is good enough.

Sorry I only got to reading this thread after you were already 50 miles into your trip. If I would have read it earlier, I could have fixed it telepathically for you sooner. Sorry for the delay.

What is a normal temp gauge reading when a Loyale is at operating temp? Even with weather in the 40's, not real cold, the temp needle on my car never gets about 1 needle width over the hash mark above the C. Seems low to me. Perhaps the t-stat is sticking open all the time. This may be part of my stumbling issue if proper operational temp is not reached I'm thinking. An engine running too cool would possibly cause drivability issues?

I have a 1990 wagon, has to be similar to yours. If I look in the crack ( gap ) between the steering column and trim piece below, I can glimpse a little hole back in there with a little red LED light in it that blinks. I think that is what you are looking for. The wagon and the sedan should not be different in this regard.

As a general rule, I would think you would want a little higher pressure in your front tires than the rear. I like to run my tires a little on the high side. They wear better. I use 32 or so in the fronts and 30 rear. The techs at the Audi dealer where I used to work swore by running tires higher than factory spec. They say the factory uses lower pressures so the car rides nice, but that 4 pounds or so higher than factory is what they recommend. This is even more important with low pro 17-18 inch wheels. With our wimpy 13", not really as much of an issue. If you are above upper 20's tire pressure, you will be fine. Of course, think of the load. The above pressures I use are for just me in the car. If I had cargo, passengers, I would up it to 34 32 or more depending on circumstances.

Tested CTS per Haynes Haynes says cold resistance 2-3k ohms. I got about 3500. Hot test 700-1k ohms. I get about 2000. If I disconnect the CTS, engine idle speed rises significantly, and when I plug it back in, idle returns to normal. Something must be working, but the measured values are not to spec.

Thanks, I thought that was it, but the way Haynes makes it sound, it is in some inaccessible place, and the CTS in my car is quite easy to access.