merkatroid

I used our rafters to pull a small block Chrysler engine...2x6 rafters using a long piece of wood attached to a eyelet to span the rafters. Used a "come along" attached to the eyelet. It worked fine.

"check out my new clear corner lights"

If you want a good reason to work on your own car you should go to a ASE test center and look at the guys in the field. I wouldnt trust most of them working on my lawnmower.

I think those are my socks.

The sound of a large turbo coming on boost closely followed by a open wastegate does it for me.

+1 for suspect the radiator. Mine was running hot on the highway. Replaced the radiator with one from my parts car. Runs correctly now....or is that for now?

Heres a bad idea. What if you installed a electric/hydraulic brake booster pump from a car that doesnt have a vacuum booster for brakes(ie 964 carrera 4) a accumulator and then run two brake lines, one for each side of the axle, "t" into the factory brake line . Then you install some kind of check valve on the inboard portion of the factory brake line and a type of electronic gate valve to control pressure to each side of the axle. I dont know if this makes any sense or sounds like garbage. But I do know that these type of brake pumps make ALOT of pressure and would have no problem locking the wheel.

I probally have a Porsche intro book on the system...Ill see if I can dig up anything. Its pretty cool to see it work, when one wheel goes into the air it just kinda twitches as the brake for that wheel cycles on and off. Probally would be a royal pain to try and make this kinda system yourself. Its too bad that turning brake idea didnt work for you. Koodos to you for giving it a shot.

I just thought that I would add that...Porsche uses this on its Cayenne. It uses the abs unit to lock and unlock individual wheels to transfer the power through each diff to the wheel on the ground. It works really well and would be cool to use turning brake controls to make your own version. A welded rear diff and turning brake controls for the front in theory would be a fun experiment. They also have a "extreme off road package" that has hydraulic decoupling sway bars to help articulation.

Maybe you should use the search button.

Seems ok...depends on $

Yes.

^^^^great post, thanks

Seam welding takes alot of time and would require you to remove most of your interior to perform the welding. Also any sound deadening would come out at the same time. It does make a big differance on chasiss stiffness but unless your making a dedicated track car or a really bad rump roast turbo'ed impreza with a cage and ball bearing t67...probally not worth the hassle. That being said, the interior seams from the dash back probally wouldnt be that hard to do and would stiffen up the car alot. I can give you a hand preparing it and welding it if your serious. Im not sure a rollcage would be a good idea. Your Golden retriever would have to wear a helmet to ride in the back.

Not enough water in Northern Arizona to share.