danbennett2u

Should be on the fuse box. under the dash far left hand side.

Just supposed to look cool? Maybe its an Aussie thing?

They would probably come out with a turbo version after a year or two.

Reminds me of what the Forester used to be but with a more rounded rear. The Forester is too big now.

Nope its coming to the us supposedly late this year. http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/suvs/1112_2013_subaru_xv_drive/

nope no ABS involved. Thanks!

I like it

Nevermind according to this it does: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74267

Would the front knuckle with wheel bearing from a 92 Legacy fit on a 95 Impreza? Both AWD? I know some of the stuff is identical but dont know if the knuckle is.

oh ok, I see. so you are changing your valve and ignition timing at the same time right?

Doesnt that only affect your valve timing not your fuel timing? I mean ignition timing... actually I dont know what I mean. I wouldnt call that simple either... at least not to me it isnt.

come to think of it, assuming no bubbles in overflow tank, couldnt these symptoms also just be low coolant, like from a leaking radiator?

You have air in your system. This could be benign or could be your head gaskets going which is very common on the DOHC 2.5l. When it is running and warm do you see bubbles in the overflow tank?

It has hit muffler puberty.

I could see that. I just dont see why it works perfectly now. I didnt even change the pads, some doofus did a brake job and put new pads on but left severely warped rotors because they "looked" good. The rotors didnt appear to be worn much either, so not a lot of movement happened.

dont know, guess we will find out. feels 100% after a couple of days of driving, no sinking or sponginess but I guess if I rearend someone I will know Any signs of this happening again that sucker is getting swapped immediately.

It is normal to have to pump a few times after brake work because the pistons are compressed and not making contact with anything. Miles it was an auto and I compressed. The pistons so that should have made the fluid level go up not down. Still stumped by what happened exactly. I change brakes all the time bxut have never had this happen

ugh going to have to get one of those now

nope but its fixed now. My resivoir does not have the rubber seal, screwed that down really tight, swung each caliper out one at a time and hit the brakes enough to let the pistons extend out, undid the lid compressed them back in, closed the lid and brakes are rock solid now. would the lid of the resivoir have antything to do with this?

I know it is normal for the first couple of pumps to not have pressure but I have zero pressure and the pedal goes straight to the floor after about 20 pumps. Rotors are brand new and fit perfect. pads are not brand new but 1 month old and plenty thick. i dont know what i did wrong here, is there any troubleshooting I can perform?

soooo you did what fixed the other guys issue and made sure the diagnostic connectors under the dash were not plugged in together right? the green ones?

How the heck do you get that many miles on a tank? those are miles not km's right? Do you run it completely empty all the time? 440/15.9 gal tank is almost 28mpg, so you would have to run it dry right?

nevermind I found one of the screws... allowed me to adjust it up and down. didnt see the side to side screw but whatever will maybe look later and post pics of where they are exactly if I feel so inclined.

Can someone direct me to a writeup on how exactly to adjust headlights on a 95 impreza? I cant figure out if turning the screws do anything or which screws to turn

I had no problems with any of the nuts however I live in rust free colorado. The guage sending unit and pump were both together on a unit on the right side on my 92 leg wagon.