Uberoo

I may have found a diesel engine to go into my justy.its a 3 cyender KUBOTA diesel.stock it has like 25 HP.Because it is a diesel it is comparable to a 35 HP gas engine.I figure I can always turbo it using kubota parts and bump that up to 50 HP.Shouldnt be to hard to get it running.it rotates the same way as the justy engine,its intake and exhaust are on the same side as a justy engine and the engine is roughly the same size as the justy engine(actaully a little smaller,but hey..) Also it doesnt really have any electronics to get it going either,start solinoid and fuel supply solinoid. I will take pics of the engine when/if I do order it and it gets here.

I have an 89 Subaru Justy RS.I bought it for $25 because the stock motor threw a rod.So I installed a used engine from pull and save and that siezed in three days. I have two questions. first how do you think it would drive with a 50 hp/120 lbs inline 3 cylinder turbo diesel? And how well do you think it would go mudding with 22" ATV tires. I am planing on buying a small 3 banger diesel engine,they are found in small tractors and some older lawn tractors.Stock for most of them is 26 HP but I am pretty sure I could turbo it and get atleast 50 HP,taking care to avoid ultra high EGT's.. as for the tires, Super Swamper TSL Vampire ASX. they have wrap around tread.They come in a 22" size and they are only $64 a piece... I know justys dont have the gearing but with that much torque avaible from practially idle it should do fine...Oh yea those 3 banger diesels are about 1 liter and will FIT in the engine bay with the transmission.They also come with SAE 5 or 6 bellhousings and flywheels.So mating them shouldnt be that hard...

My 83 gl offroad toy gave its last breath today.The car stalled at an intersection and wouldnt fire again,even after attemtping to start it for 3 traffic light cycles.So I removed the lights and anything else of value in it.I pulled it to a salvage yard and got 128.05 for it. The car was showing 230K on the clock.Most of the body was gone because of rust. The interior was stripped/ruined.even still the car weighed 1978lbs with no tires.Most everything on the car was shot. insteresting considering that I was looking for a replacement for it anyway...There wasnt a straight panel on that car. The car was hunter green with enough rust that it might have been camo.interestingly $130 is the total amount I had into the car itself.100 for the car and 30 for a new water pump.. for some reason it didnt quite sound like a beer can crumpling even though thats prctially what it was made of... now im off to find a newer/ better legacy for 3-500... what it used to look like:http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/ RIP beat to hell 83 gl.

I would love to Tcase it but no welder or money. so then what you are all saying is a legacy is almost useless for offroad?

I would like to replace my beat to hell 83 GL with something newer for offroad. Sure the 83 gl "trucklet" does fantastic offroad,especially with the tractor tires.However on the road it sucks.the 25 year old seats have lost all of there padding.The car is very underpowered and has trouble with most,if not all of the hills around here.Also it is becoming a real burdon hassling with the DMV in an attempt to get it registered because the title is long gone. I was thinking something like a 90's legacy. are the 90's legacyies any good offroad?Theres a 91 5 speed AWD wagon for $500 around here.Would it be any good at trailriding/mudrunning? I probally would mount my tractor tires on rims that fit legacies then change them out when I go offroad like I have been doing.Is the AWD good or will I need to put a EA82 DR in?

as long as it shouldnt negatively effect my overall mpg much than im happy. although if its turned all the way in shouldnt it run lean?reducing performance rather than running like a scalded ape?

gee I thought it ran better and had more power like that..Certanly cured the MASSIVE hesitration from idle to 1800 rpm,and it seemed to make the car Way more powerful from idle to redline (found that out because I floored it because it was so much fun,then I looked down at the tach when I wasnt realy accerating much more found the RPM at 6500-7000 or so..

I played with the idle and mixture screws until it idles steady at 850 RPM.then I turned the mixture screw all the way in.From GD's post that should have made it run lean.except it made my car run like a scalded ape.the power difference between what it was at and what its out now is like comparing an ej22 to ea82.in my little 2400 lb ea81 I could actually burn out going up a hill.

I tried searching but I couldnt find anything on how to adjust the ************achi carb.Anyone know how?Car is an 83 GL wagon.Who knows once I post this similar threads will come up that didnt come up when I searched...

well so i tried to hook everything up.it would never build any pressure.Although I tried to bolt everything together and that didnt work.Maybe if I unbolted the caiper and set it to where the bleeder might bleed air out or something....Is there anyway I get can this to work?Idaho MAY have been overcrowded with subies but the junkyards went and crushed them all or want exorbant rates,ie-$70 for 25 year old caliper..I need to get this to work by friday.Currently the brakes are even worse than when I began,there is nothing until the last 1/2 of an inch of travel. also I dont know if its related but now I can't turn all the way left.for the first time ever I had to make a 3 point turn to turn around in my street. If there was another subaru with a resonable caliper or reasonable prices...but there isnt 2 junkyards one crushed all of there subarus older than 95 and the other one wants insane prices...

what about bleeding the system before bolting it all together...

So I took the truck up there.to my dismay the left front brake assembly was already gone.So I took the stuff from the right side.I guess the caliper will just be upsidedown...will that effect anything?It shouldnt because the caliper is just a cylender,hand brake may not work...

its a subaru.there designed to leak....A subaru that doesnt leak doesnt run

I need to drive my 83 GL wagon up to winchester idaho.40 miles away up hill.I need to do that so I can grab the rotor and caliper and possibly the pads if there any good of another subaru up there.however those componets on my car are toast. So I need a way to remove and temporary disable the left front brake assembly. I would love to take another vehicle but I only have one other vehicle that could drive up there but its my 89 cummins pickup and it has about 10 miles to go before the truck is bone dry.to fuel it up would be more than my last paycheck of $140 currently the brake assembly is off its mounting points but still attached to the brake line.how to plug or block that line so I can drive it to get the parts I need?then latter if the pads and such are good from the other one swap the brake parts on before the trip down to lewiston.

If the engine siezed because of a lack of oil pressure is it possible to rebuild it?Or would everything be destroyed and need a couple thousand in machine work to fix?

I just hotwired the pump to 12V.I got 6.5-7 gallons out...

my justy just siezed its motor.it has close to a full tank of gas.What is the best way to empty it?

The justy just F****** siezed.Was driving down the road(actually to napa auto parts to get a oil pressure gauge) and then I heard a bang.then I coasted into a parking spot at napa auto(it died less than 100 yards away).then ateemped to crank it and it wont budge. if anyone wants it come get it.

It is carbed...I am reallly scared that the new engine is gonna fail because strange noises comes from what sounds to be in the front(while driving it),but then again the muffler is SHOT.The metal in muffler has delaminated so it rattles a fair bit,either way monday im gonna get the muffler replaced.It shouldnt be much because I found an old sevrice record for a lifetime warrenty muffler...

I would like to install some gauges in my 89 justy RS.First order of business is an oil pressure gauge so I might be able to stop the engine from failing from a lack of oil pressure.The other gauge I want to install is a temp gauge because I dont trust the gauge in the cluster.The temp gauge right now will only go about 1/5 up the temp gauge-then never move.not even up really steep hills in 100*F temp. :-\ . so yea an oil pressure gauge to hopefully prevent engine failure,and a temp gauge to make sure im not running too hot. just now I dont know where I can place the sensors.I would like the oil pressure in a predrilled hole if posible and I would like the temp gauge to have a direct METAL connection to the engine. thanks in advance.

the car is carbed... BTW what are the trim levels? I know theres DL,GL, and RS.I know DL is the base model but what options are on the GL and RS?

just filled the thing up today.thirsty bugger took $31 bucks to fill up.I will post info on MPG when I refill..

I checked the oil pump but it seemed to be ok.yea-used engine,just resealed the oil pump,water pump,valve cover(with lots of RTV I might add).Then I changed the timing belt and the alternator belt.

I got it together and went for a drive.its like driving a big go cart,although it is underpowered.especially on hills.The engine seems to idle really rough,it thrashes around in the engine bay but as soon as the gas peddle is pressed it becomes very smooth.I think my idle is way low because when it idles it doesnt even seem like its turning 300RPM-although its idle isnt as rough at whatever low idle speed its at.also the car has no power below 2000 RPM,NONE. oh yea,I dont know if its because the engine was sitting for a long time but the CEL was on the whole time I drove it 15 miles home.And the E brake needs to be adjusted in the worse sorta way. but it is kinda a neat vehicle... its the first vehicle ive had that felt like it could do a solom through the lines on the road...

83 Subaru GL -removed front fenders-replaced with garden edging so it wouldnt get pulled over as much. -26" tractor tires on redrilled 14x6 Mazda rims -welded rear diff -custom front end because it was bought with a front end collision. -scotchbrite air cleaner-soon will have proper aircleaner and have a snorkel -made it an "Ol' school baja" -4 walmart cheapies on top-the two at the edges are flood lamps,angled at 45(Ish)*.two middle lights are driving lights.lotsa light and visability at night. -stripped interior-no rear seat,no carpet,no headliner. best story-I went offroading with some friends of mine.They were in a fullsize dodge and a fullsize ford.I could easily go everywhere they could go in FWD with no problems.the dodge got stuck and I actually was able to pull it 6 ft before it found another hole and then the subie didnt weigh enough to get traction,still all 4 wheels turning was kinda neat...still though now when I go out I play with atvs,because if I get stuck a single guy on a 700CC ATV is enough to pull me out...found that out when on a later trip I flooded the coil and had to be towed out... http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/ I need to get some new pics...