northgeorgiaroo

Hey, now don't be hatin' on the 'roo. You just have the same problem as me... An evil previous owner. Curse them all and their no fluid-changing, warning-light-ignoring heartless souls!

Thanks for the advice, bheinen, but this was actually a while ago. The deal fell through for a multitude of reasons, the main one being that the guy's idea of "mint" meant with a bad paint job covering a fair amount of body work. As far as I know, he's still driving it. And it does fly, I'll give it that. And I still have my wagon which I am going to have to fix up or sell one of these days. (ah well, maybe with THIS income tax check....)

Sigh... Not what I wanted to hear, but probably what I needed to hear. Reliability issues, poor mileage added to the issue of it being a 2-seater pretty much kills the idea. Oh well... The IRS check will go instead to give the 90 lego wagon a transmission. (please see thread in WTB if you have any info on tranny in the Georgia/Tennessee/Alabama/Carolinas area) Thanks!

OK, I am having some problems with the current 'roo. 4EAT appears to be on its last legs. Won't shift out of 1st, tried the easy fixes, NOT getting rid of her just yet, but I have to get to work you know! A friend has offered to sell his 82 RX-7 in (he says) near MINT condition. I am seriously intrigued by the thought of going Rotary. As a serious devotee of the KISS (keep it simple, stupid!) theory of mechanical engineering, a motor that has no valves or valvetrain, leaving fewer than 20 moving parts sounds like a dream. Anyone have experience with Mazda rotary? Esp. this vintage (i think it's the 12A engine). Any advice would be appreciated.

I thread searched wheel bearings a few months ago and found a thread here that sent me to a really informative, if somewhat pretentious (what a shock) thread on nasioc (no offense to dual members :-p ): http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070&highlight=wheel+bearing&page=4

Uhh... If friend who did water pump thinks crank/cam sensors are bad, thats a good place to start. He should have gotten a close look at both when doing the water pump. You don't say why friend 2 thinks it is timing. I assume you (and/or friend 2) know that would be the cam timing, as this engine has electronic ignition and you can't adjust the ingition timing. If friend 1 is right, sensors can be replaced fairly easily. If friend 2 is right, you are taking the timing belt off again (friend 1 had to take it off to do water pump) and aligning the marks. (thread search: "Timing Belt" will reveal all you need to know) If you have to do this, find out if friend 1 replaced timing belt, idler pulleys and cam/crank seals while he was in there. If not, you probably should. On the other hand, both friends may be wrong, and you may need to replace fuel pump, coil, igniter, or even just a fuse somewhere. Which is another way of saying, everyone here will happily help you as much as they can, but you may need to post more information about what it is doing, and what you have already tried.

Yep. FWD fuse in, same as when out -- TB about 75% of the time, rest of the time no. The Duty C solenoid is bad. Fluid changed,-- all stayed same. Covered here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77162 In other news... Drove a little further tonight, and shift points still seem off. A lot better than before, but still not quite right. I guess I'll be flushing the tranny soon. After that... TCU? Tranny has about 225k miles. I am leaning towards the used because I live in an apartment (=no garage or driveway). I can drop tranny and put in another one at work in a few days, I hope. Can't work on the car in front of the apartment without catching major flak from the landlord.

Fixed! Thanks go to Blackbart! There are a lot of great folks on here who sell used parts, but Frank is one of the best! He get me the part, and probably saved me a lot of trouble (by selling me the TPS attached to a throttle body -- saved me trying to get the TPS installed and aligned correctly). Shipped fast and well packed every time. The transmission is shifting a lot better, although still have TB, and tax refund went to pay down debts, etc. Sooo... Maybe when I get the "stimulus" check, I can get a new-to-me tranny.:-\

Ok, I got home from work and knocked this out in about 30 min. with the GIMP. Intelligent scissors and smudge tool. What more do you need? (Full size is in my profile) Totally worth the effort, because it makes me smile.:cool:

:lol: Someone please post a link to full size! (Or if you will photoshop a new one, we will take up a collection. You could even add the rally car to some other Windows "stock" wallpapers. "Red moon desert" would be perfect.) Ahh, hell, I'm gonna try it with the freeware photo editor I have, GIMP. If I succeed, I will post the results.

:eek: :eek: :eek: :headbang: :headbang:

Umm... Not quite. That's why I went looking for this board in the first place Glad I found you guys though, even though y'all assured me that my EJ22 almost assuredly didn't have a blown HG. When you take in an abused Soob like I did, you can't make any assumptions. It's just like taking in an abused dog, you just have to deal with the problems when they come up. This legacy sounds like it might be time to put her to sleep, though.

A brass figlagee to you for spotting it I just changed it yesterday, after finding a podcaster (The Brass Figlagee) who is posting as many old shows as he can on Itunes free! One of my favorites is still "Working on the old man's car" Oh yeah, and by the way, I am still having the problem, I am trying to figure out exactly what is going on while driving short trips. Just to see what would happen, I disconnected the TPS and drove about 1/2 a block. CEL was on, and the old girl would barely move. So it is sending something to the ECU and TCU, it just may not be correct. Looking at a tranny when I get the tax refund check anyway, so I'm just keping an eye on it at this point. Thanks, Dan

Thanks, guys. I changed the fluid about 2,000 miles ago. (Not flushed, but changed with the pan off, run a couple days, then drained and changed again.) Many thanks to Gary for reminding me. The POWER light does flash, (it's been flashing most of the time because of the failed duty C solenoid, and I got used to ignoring it.). I checked it this afternoon -- the weird thing where you hold your tongue just so while moving from 1st to D, pushing the Manual button on and off, and after about 15 tries, it started flashing codes. First one was still Duty C solenoid. Then it said, throttle position sensor. Arggh! That is the one sensor I don't have from the harness that came with my boneyard engine. My extra is in two pieces. If anybody needs me, I will be in the WTB forum, trying to get someone to trade sensors with me. I might just drive it like this for two or three weeks until I get that wonderful check from Uncle Sam. Alternately, Has anyone had a TPS from an EJ22 opened? is there anything in there I might be able to service or clean up? Thanks, Dan

My Legacy Wagon has started something new to go with all her other quirks.:-\ It is staying in low gear waaay longer than I would like (4EAT), even when I am barely pushing down on the gas pedal. In park, the engine seems to rev normally with steady pressure on the gas, and comes right back to idle when I lift my foot. While driving, I can force it to shift by putting it in MANUAL and moving the selector to 3. I don't think there's a problem with the throttle, so the TPS is what's left, right? But shouldn't it be throwing a CEL if that's the problem? Could it be the TCU instead? Thanks! Dan

I have always used Bosch filters (my family came to Subarus from Volkswagens, so I guess the Bosch thing kinda carried over). Should I switch? EJ22, so I don't know if Emily's comment applies. Using Castrol GTX oil.

I know this is an old thread, but I just found it when my mom and dad's 91 legacy wagon developed power window problems yesterday. Inspired by Nipper's suggestion and the parents' need, I tackled the job on my 90 legacy wagon. (I live in GA, they live in CO, so the best I could do was figure out how to do it, then tell my dad.) Rear power windows hadn't worked since I bought it, and I had been putting it off. Now, I don't know why. Took me 20 minutes. Here's the instructions I sent my dad (should work on any first generation legacy): 1: Underneath the inside door handle is a plastic cover: remove this by prying with a screwdriver directly above the fulcrum of the lock switch. Pull the door release up to get it all the way out. 2. Near the top of the "grab" handle on the door, there is a hole that is filled in with a foam plug. Dig the plug out, then unscrew the big phillips-head screw down at the bottom. 3. Near the bottom of the plastic part of the door panel, there is a plastic access cap. Remove the cap and take out the large phillips head screw in there. 4. Starting at one of the bottom corners, pop out all of the "doofus clips" that hold the door panel on. A little finger pressure is all that should be required. Once you have popped out the doofus clips up to about 4/5 of the way up the sides of the panel, it should lift off the door with direct upward pressure, releasing the pressure clips that hold it into the door frame over the top of the panel. 5.while holding the panel, look behind it to see where the wires connect to the window switch. Squeeze the release right where it connects to the switch, and the wire connector should come loose. The door panel should be completely free now, so take it inside where little pieces won't go flying into the grass, never to be seen again. 6.Pry the switch housing out of the door panel with a thin screwdriver or knife blade. You should be able to slide a very thin screwdriver blade between the white plastic bottom of the switch and the black plastic housing, prying it out.once you get it out, two metal pieces shaped like extra-wide "V"s should come out. 7. The bottoms of these are probably burned, shorting out the switch. File them lightly with an emery board until they are nice and shiny. Give the contacts on the white plastic part of the switch similar treatment, then put the "V" pieces back into the white part of the switch. They have ears on them at the bottom of the V, so if they don't fall right into place, turn them around or switch them. Pop the white plastic thingy back into the switch housing until it clicks into place. Repeat to get switch into panel. 8. Back at the car, reconnect the switch, put the key in the ignition and test the switch before you put the door panel back on. If it works -- and it should -- you're done! Put the window all the way up, so you won't accidentally hang up part of the door panel on it, then hook the panel over the top of the door frame and reassemble! If it doesn't work, get out the multimeter and check for voltage getting to the switch, and check the switch for continuity in all three positions (open, window down, and window up).There are six pins, and I don't know which is which, but trial and error should get you there to tell if the switch is too fried to save (it is such a simple switch, this seems very unlikely). Have fun!

OMG!!! I just sprinted out to check the spindle nut! It's fine. I had done all I was supposed to do - torqued to 175 ft-lbs and peened over the locking rim. I haven't had a chance to check anything else. I guess I will try rotating the tires, as nipper suggested, although I really don't get an idea that it's coming from any one particular place. I guess I will have to let the wife drive it while I ride shotgun and see if I can tell anything from the passenger side. I will check the driveshafts, u-joints, etc. this weekend, when I can do it first thing in the morning before it gets so dang hot!

Thanks, Nipper. The problem with seeing if the noise moves, is it seems to be a a frequency that transmits through the whole car. I can't tell where it's coming from!

1990 Legacy wagon AWD 4EAT EJ22. Some torque bind issues (Duty C Solenoid), but I am not ready to crack open the tranny. Just replaced a CV axle, which was making an awful racket. (I tried a quick boot, and the dang thing tore itself to pieces after about a week, and it was flopping around down there.) Now that I am back on the road, I notice a weird throbbing, humming noise coming from the car when I get to about 40 mph. It sounds a little like the bad guy Sebulba's pod racer in the movie Star Wars Episode I. (Sorry, that's the only think I can compare it to ) Kindof a Wahwahwahwahwahwahwah. I think the noise was there before, I probably just didn't notice it. This car basically just gets me to work and back, usually in traffic at speeds under 35. It seems to be there regardless of engine speed and whether turning or going straight. Starts up at about 40 and still there at 50, and I am not going faster than that until I figure this out. So, the question is, does this sound like something resulting from my torque bind issues, or is it more likely I have a bad wheel bearing or brake rotor or something? A mechanic is out of the question right now, due to extreme lack of funds. (my wife lost her job, and although she is working again now, we fell behind on everything in the meantime). Has anyone noticed a similar problem? What was it? Failing that, anyone got any ideas on how to diagnose the problem? Thank you for whatever advice you can offer!

Duuuuuude! OK, now all they need to do is scrap that ugly-ash new WRX and put this bad boy into production! :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:

Hey, hopefully she'll give you a ride when the F.O.R.D. (you know what it stands for ) breaks down. (I sincerely hope it doesn't, but hey, it is Ford, after all.)

Wow! That is the best parts locater site I have seen!!! Someone should add it to the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual!! all the other ones I have tried simply let me give my e-mail to junkyards 700 miles away so that could send me useless e-mails for a week (shipping would be as much/more than the part!) then give up.

This thread has been all about a 5MT, but could you do this on a 4EAT? Or would the Tcu get confused and start doing weird things?

Yep, tried three more times today, couldn't get the power light to flash any codes! Anyone got a way to read the TCU codes that doesn't involve pushing the manual button 6.5 times while cycling through the gears and touching your nose with your tongue?