pamike

i'm supposed to go back down with my buddy later this week. i'll look to see if the speedo works and try to manually upshift it and see what happens.

was it still driveable? would it upshift?

i do know the fluid is new. thats the first thing i looked at. and i'm pretty sure it's not stuck in 3rd gear. so i guess i'll just pull codes and see if they let me drive it. also check the wiring connectons. he was only considering getting it if the price was cheap enough.

my buddy is looking at this 93 legacy at a local car lot. they told us they bought the car with a bad trans. they replaced the trans and we were told they got a bad replacement. they then found another 93 trans that they claim ran good in the car they pulled it from. after installing it they said it doesn't want to upshift. i'm thinking they said it would only go to 2nd gear. i'm pretty sure their are trouble codes but i didn't pull them. from what i observed they don't have a clue about working on subaru's. so what are the chances that the problem is somthing they did and could be an easy fix? do the trans computers ever go bad? basically what we are trying to do is get an idea of the problem so he could possably buy the car very cheap and fix it without sinking alot of money into it. the only reason he's considering it is it has a good body with minimal rust and he is limited to $900.

yup this is exactly what happened to mine. and when it would heat up and i turned the heat on it would blow cold.

just wanted to add that this problem is intermittent. somtimes everything turns right off. and if there were some sort of timer it probably would have shown up in my wiring diagrams

yup i put in another relay, that was the first thing i did. i checked with a volt meter at the relay and i'm getting power through the green and black wires. this is why the relay is on. but whats odd is if i pull the fuse for the circuit that the relay controls, it turns off the relay. this shouldn't have anything to do with the green/black wires should it? and after replacing the fuse it's off until the key is turned on again

my brothers doesn't do this. i checked for power after key was off and got nothing. mine will stay powered on until it runs the battery dead. the relay doesn't turn off until i cut the power. anyway the ecu is not the problem. i swaped out my brothers and it still was doing it. the relay wire goes to the ecu so it has to be somthing telling the ecu to do it:confused:

well i pulled the ecu. i'll find out soon enough if it's the problem. i'm going to pull the ecu out of my brothers legacy and try it so i'll see what happens. his happens to be the same year so should be no issues with swaping them. i did come across this thread on here that says the 96 used a few different ecu part numbers. these are listed as a few. mine happens to be last 3 digits 270. whats the difference? are they interchangable? i know my brothers car is currently running a 95 2.2 with the stock 96 2.5 computer with no problems. 22611AC271 22611AC431 22611AC910 22611AC930

where is the ecu located? is it under the right side front carpet like my wrx is?

this is the problem i had. the temp spiked and then would be good for a while. eventually it got to the point where it would be ok on nice easy cruses but any up hill or heavy throttle and it would over heat.

ok, those fuses have no power. but i did manage to unplug the relay just enough to get my test leads into the terminals while the relay was still pluged in and i am getting power to the relay with key off until i break the circuit. from what i see this is triggered through the ecu.

as i said i did pull the relay and check the 2 wires that trigger the relay for power. they didn't have power with key off. and when i pull the fuse it's the fuse for the circuit that the relay turns on. the fuse is not in the circuit with the ecu. so if it was the ecu keeping things powered up, wouldn't me putting the fuse back in reconnect the circuit and turn everything back on? it doesn't. so what i'm seeing is the relay staying connected even with the ecu side of it turned off:confused:. but i guess i can try another ecu if i can get ahold of one. where is it located?

well what i did was check the signal wires that turn the relay on and off and i got voltage with key on and nothing with key off. so thats why this makes no sense to me. but if the relay was being powered up with the key off then when i pulled the fuse in the circuit and then replaced it, shouldn't it turn right back on? thats not whats happening, after i pull the fuse to cut the power in that circuit then replace it nothing turns back on until i turn the key back on. so what could keep the relay turned on?

well i swaped the relay out and the problem is still there. now i'm stumped. for some reason the circuit stays connected until i pull the fuse from the box under the hood. but whats wierd is i can replace the fuse and all is good.

if i do end up having a bad switch, what is involved in changing the turn signal/light switch assembly? is steering removal nessisary or do i just get to it by removing the plastic column cover? but i'm still wondering why my parking lights come on with the key in the acc. position. from what i understand, the relays for the exterior lights shouldn't even be getting power until the key is in the run or start position. i think i did fix my battery draining problem though. i traced it back to a under dash relay that was sticking in the on position until the power to the circuit was cut.

well the advance auto web site shows 2 that look to be right. one is $17 BWD #R802 and the other $60:eek: BWD #R6193. so whats the difference? anyway they don't show any in stock so i might go to the local junk yard for a used one. i'm not looking forward to digging under the dash to get to it again.

i found the relay. it was a pita to get to. had to move alot of stuff around under the dash to get to it. so where do i get one of these?

first off, i disconnected the alt and it did nothing. so this is not the problem. i started pulling fuses in the under hood box. when i pulled this green 30 amp one the power at the iac went away so i'm assuming this is the circuit i want. here is a pic of it in the center of the pic it's the big green fuse. there are 2 of them. one on the right is the one i'm talking about. the fuse box cover has it listed as 30a SBF NO 2. my haynes manual shows this going through a relay labeled main relay to the center wire of the iac connector. so where is this main relay located? and it looks as if the relay is powered by the ecu (mpfi control unit in the haynes manual) so it would almost have to be a bad sticking relay or somthing is wrong with the ecu and its powering the relay when it shouldn't be. so i think i really need to find this relay.

ok i'll see if i can get it to do it again and try that. but i do have to say that the alt has been replaced with a good used unit in the time that the car has been doing this and it still goes dead. i guess the chances of it being the alt are slim but i'll check into it. i do have one question though. the only wiring diagram i have is in my haynes manual. it shows a fusable link (i think this is the one in the under hood fuse box) then a relay, then it goes to various engine sensors. so is it possable it could be a relay thats sticking and not cutting power when car is off? i didn't see this relay but it would be nice to have a good wiring diagram. i don't really know how accurate the haynes manual is.

been having this problem for a while now and i'm really getting tired of this. theirs some details of my problem here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117124 anyway, i noticed a very faint humm when listening around the top of the motor and i found if i unplug the iac valve, it stops. and if i plug it back in it humms again. while doing this the battery volts goes from 12v down to 11.95v and back up when i unplug it again. so it seems to me that somthing is on that shouldn't be. now my question is should i have any power to the iac valve connector with the key off? i'm getting 11.5 volts at the connector on the left and middle wires when looking at the connector. after messing with it for about a half hour i checked the volts at the iac connector and got barely nothing. then after turning the key on and back off i got 11.5 again at the connector. so is this normal for this to have power for a while after the car is turned off?

maybe original cause was the cheap t-stat. i always buy oem ones from the dealer because i've heard to many bad things about the cheap ones. then after running your car hot it now has warped heads or bad head gaskets from overheating

if it's just the wheels then yes they fit right on. you can not run the outback size tire. you would need to use a 195/60-15

ok i turned the screw in 1 turn and it seems to have fixed it. so i'll drive it some and see what happens.

it has it but the bracket for the top cover is blocking it. lolwayoks like i'll have to remove 2 of the bolts for the throttle body to remove the bracket. i did run the car and the idle did seem to be a bit lower than it was. went from 1200 to about 1000. so i might run it some more and see if it changes. this motor was setting around for a little while. if it comes down to it i can always just swap my old tb back onto this motor