pamike

my car is an AT and the engine i put in was from an AT car also. i'll check for that screw. i didn't really take notice if their was one there or not

i just changed my motor in my 90 legacy. my new(used) motor already had all the sensors on it. when i first fired it up the idleing was jumping from 3500 down to where it would almost stall. then it would jump back up and do the same thing over again. i got a code for the iac valve so i swaped the one off my old motor onto this motor. it now idles smoothly but it idles at about 1200 rpm when warmed up. how do i get it to idle back down to normal?? i'm assuming it has to do with the iac. is their an adjustment on it. i did notice that it has 2 screws on the top and it looks like i can rotate the valve. so anyone have any ideas?

ok, if i did this engine swap myself it would be my first time doing this. does anyone have a link to a write-up explaining everything? what is involved in seperating the engine from the auto trans?

what all years of 2.2 engines will swap into my 90? i found one on craigslist that is local to me with like 85,000 miles on it. i'm thinking it might be cheaper/better to just swap in another lower milage engine. my current one is nearing 250,000 miles

ok, i just ran it around town for a while and it was fine. when i got back i noticed bubbleing in the overflow tank. so it looks to be head gaskets. so what is happening is it's pressureizing the system, pushing the coolant out and makes it overheat.

nothing in the overflow bottle that i know of. what would that mean? i refilled last night and i ran it around at highway speed and the heater now worked with no overheating for a while but it did heat back up again and pushed the coolant into the overflow.

the overflow bottle is full when it does this. and when i open the cap their is alot of pressure. it bubbles up in the overflow bottle when i open the cap just enough to release the pressure. also i did notice a slight squeeling a couple of times when i gave it gas but it went away within a few seconds. how do i know if the pump is seized or not? is their a way to tell without tearing apart? i know it runs off the back side of the belt so i would assume the car would still run with a seized pump

so me and another subie guy went for a mountain ride today. part way through my car overheated. i tried to turn the heater on and i got cool air. so now i'm thinking water pump. we made it off the mountain but it took a while. i topped off the coolant when i got home and left it run for about 10 minutes. i now had heat and the temp was fine. i ran it down the highway and it did fine until i was pulling in the drive way and it heated back up again. i then grabbed my vid camera and took this vid. you can see what it did with the car running and what it did after turning it off. the heater was cooler again. the top rad hose was hot and the coolant is green and not discolored in any way and the oil looks great to. so is it a head gasket or water pump or somthing else?? http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/pamike/subaru/?action=view&current=SANY0088.mp4

i currently have outback struts on 2 of my legacy's. one of them i've put alot of miles on with this setup and alot of offroad time as well and i've had no problems with my cv's or boots. i think i may try to go another inch and see what happens. i've also seen that useing first gen forester springs will give me about another inch of lift so i may try to grab a set and see what happens.

with my 90, i rub on the mud flaps when hitting hard bumps. it is very close to the rocker panel and i had to remove the plastic guard that was on the end of the rocker because the tire hit it. if i put the trailing arm brackets on i think i would rub more on the mud flaps.

for the 90-99 legacy all you need is the stuts from a outback. i use 1998 ob struts. thats it. you can use your stock springs, top hats etc. i've done this on 2 of my subie's and have had no issues with cv's or allignment or anything else. my 96 with outback struts and 215/65/16 general grabbers http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/pamike/subaru/SANY0669.jpg my 90 with the same struts and 205/75/15 general grabber tires http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/pamike/subaru/SANY0044.jpg

i havn't seen this covered anywhere so i'll ask. i currently have outback struts on my car. i found these, http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?products_id=107 1 " lift spacers. so my question is will i have any problems with running the outback struts and these spacers together? my main concern is allignment, i don't want to wear through tires as they get expensive.

ok i was wrong about the 3 wires. theirs only 2. so i'm going to just get the plugs for the lights at the junk yard and run my own wires through a relay and just use a switch. i was looking at my wiring for my hella's on my other subaru and i should be able to wire them the same way. would you happen to know what size wire to use for everything? the power is the biggest with a fuse(what size of fuse would i need?) and the wires to the lights are smaller with the 2 grounds being the smallest. i'm not really familiar on the gauge sizes of wiring.

your lights look like a different setup. i know for sure my fog lights have 3 wires. the bulbs look to be similar to a regular headlight bulb. i think i'll do some more research and see what i can find. if it's gonna be a pita i'll just use a different set of lights.

so are the light connectors the same on the legacy lights vs. the outback ones? is their alot of work involved in wiring them up? with the wiring you have, is it pretty much plug and play? if it's gonna be to much trouble i'll just put a set of hella's in there. i seen the wires at the junk yard on the outback for the lights and it looked like it was wired in with the factory harness and would be a pita to wire up. i was hopeing the wires were allready there

i'm swaping a outback bumper onto my 96 legacy. i want to be able to use the lights in the bumper. my question is, is some/all the wiring for these already there to power the lights? if not what is involved. i'm only asking this because i know somtimes cars come with the same wiring but with different options. i'm hopeing this is the case and i can run these with little problems. or should i just mount a set of hella 500's and forget about the outback lights.

ok i replaced the alt with a used one (thanks Gary) and no squeeling and a constant 14v. i did also replace the belt. it wasn't in horrible condition but i figured i would just do it as preventive maintance while i had it off anyway. so far it's running great. i'll give it a few days and see how it acts

i'm almost 100% sure its that the alt loading down and making the belt squeel for the first 30 sec. after starting it. it doesn't squeel at all any other time, just on start up when the volts read low. i'm going with the alt.

yea i have checked it with a volt meter. when i first start the car the voltage reads in the high 12's and the belt squeels constantly. after about 30 sec. the squeeling belt stops and the voltage jumps up to mid 14's. at first i thought my belt was going bad until i learned that everytime it squeels the voltage is lower than it should be

was not raining. i'm going to try the alt first because i know it's on it's way out anyway. i just have a feeling it is the alt. if not i'll move on to the coil pack and tune up stuff.

well the batt. is not dead because i ran the car around a few more times last night and it didn't do it again. no check engine light either. plugs are not that old and are ngk's. i can't remember on the wires without looking. i have never changed the fuel filter but i'm planning on doing it soon anyway. as far as the alt. i think it is on its way out and i'm gonna replace it soon just so it doesn't let me sit. but i don't think it lost power. the car would still crank over just fine

i was driving about 65mph and it started to loose power and eventually i had to pull over. by the time i got stopped the engine died. it tried to restart but didn't. then after setting for a min. it started up. i started driving it and it was really low on power and check engine light started flashing. then the wierd part. at a stop sign it started to run good. i got all the power back and drove home with no problems except for a check engine light. anyway i'm getting codes for cyl 3 and 4 mis fire. i cleared the codes and drove it again down the highway and no problems and no check engine light. does anyone have any ideas on what would cause this? it is a 96 legacy with the 2.2

i used 97 outback struts with my stock top hats and springs.

205/75-15 grabbers on my 90 and 215/65/16 on my 96. great tire. i've out run many suv's and trucks and pulled some out to. the specs say my size measure out to 26.8 and they are close to not fitting on my 90 legacy but they do.

ok i put a zip tie on it and it's working fine. i might grab the module if i ever run across one but i'm not really worried about it.