Hocrest

Yeah I checked the keyway on the crank, no wear at all. I also checked the keyway on the old and new cams, all are good. Wouldn't it be 90 on the cams and 180 on the crank?

But it could cause things to hit where they wouldn't normally. When I had it apart, I didn't measure but it seemed that the pistons were flush with the end of the cylinders. Later when I looked at the shortblock in my basement with a bad bearing, it seems that the pistons stay recessed by about 1/32" or so?

The passenger side (right) cam does have all valves closed with the mark lined up. If I turn the drivers cam to close the valves, won't it be pointing at 6:00? What are the left valves supposed to be doing when the crank is at 12:00??

No I swapped the entire heads. Including the cam wheels. There are marks on all 4 pistons. With the heads off the valves don't appear bent, they open and close evenly. I'm wondering if the engine that I swapped in had the block shaved or different pistons put in?? If so they would have had to have the timing set differently?? I know it seems odd, but I don't have any other ideas?

Yeah I know...

When the heads were off, I spun the crank through many revolutions. Yeah, I've done TB's before. I know that all "-" marks should be at 12:00. Correct?? That's the problem, I can't. If I set the crank first I can't get the cam to line up, If I set the cam first, I can't get the crank to line up??? Yeah, I can't be sure, But as far as I can tell the "interference engines" have the new style of tensioner and different cam wheels? Even so, I checked the FSM's for 99 and they want all the marks lined up at 12:00.

First some background, 97 Legacy w/2.2. Last year I swapped in a 2.2 out of 96 from the junkyard. Last week she stopped running and I found out that the bottom idler bearing were shot and the cam belt was way off. I got another idler, timing belt and went to set the timing. I could line up the passenger cam at 12:00, but I couldn't get the crank and driver's side cam to line up, there was a definite contact that was preventing the cam from turning to 12 when the drivers cam was at 12. I assumed there was a valve sticking, so I decide to swap in a set of heads I had at home. Once I get the heads off, I can tell that there was contact with the intake valves and the pistons. I get the "new" heads on and they act the same way. I still can't get the crank and the cam to both line up at 12:00. Some pics; While I had the heads off I confirmed that the front pistons were at TDC while the crank mark was at 12:00. More pics can be found here; Why can I not line up everything properly?? Any thoughts? I didn't think to measure while the heads were off, should the pistons be flush with the cylinder walls?

I'll be working that day..... Have fun, have a couple burgers and beers for me...

With the end of February comes the end of my "inspection" sticker for Becca. I've been trying to decide over the last few weeks what the next step is. I'm sure my "shiny happy" neighbor has this marked on his calendar and will be calling the township on Monday to report an illegal vehicle parked in my driveway After two years of unemployment I finally have a job, but that leaves no time to work on her. And the repairs she needs are beyond my ability anyway... Is any body in the area willing to take on a project? She has the standard rear wheel well rot along with some of the usual under body rot. The engine and 4 speed are still running strong. I'm not looking to turn her into a show car, just basically to get rid of most of the rot and make her structurally sound again. If anybody is willing to do the work, let me know. Send me a PM with some contact info and I'll describe the ugly rusty details and we can discuss what you would want to do the work.

...fixed it

I found my post about the Cruise wiring that I posted on another board;

The car ran fine with both ECU's, I was expecting an idle issue with the AT ECU, but never noticed anything. I had to cut or ground one wire to get the cruise working, and then for safety I wired one of the clutch switches in series with the brake switch.

Just thought I'd update this thread for any others doing this swap. I continued to have a recurring problem with the CEL returning, giving a code (I forget the #) that the ECU was having problems communicating with the TCU (it's in my basement, no wonder). I found a pin that needed to be grounded according to the FSM, #81, and that would knock out the CEL for about 90 minutes of driving, then I would have to reset it again. Thanks to NJDRSubaru, I came up with an ECU out of a 97 MT last month and finally swapped it out yesterday. After a few hours of driving, no more CEL. So just for everyone's info, if you're going to do this swap, grab the MT ECU out of the donor or a suitable/engine year MT. I still have the ABS light on, and I've determined that I also need to come up with a MT ABS computer, but I'm not as concerned with that one...

Don't care what you bring Paul, as long as your there... I'm sure there'll be some seats you can borrow.

BH, thanks, but I'm looking for 6cyls that use the phase 2 4EAT so it would have to be a 98 or newer. But along those lines the XT6 also had a 4eat... Suby, would you mind PMing me a VIN so I can track down the part number?

Were there any 6 cylinder Legs/OB's available with the 4EAT? Or do all the 6's have the 5EAT??? If so, what years and trims??

Yeah, I'm an idiot... I forgot to plug in the wiring harness for the MAF... I'm still getting a CEL and ABS light, but it's running normal and not overly rich. Last night I drove about 70 highway miles after I filled the tank, this morning i put in 7.5 gallons

I did the MT swap on my 97 Legacy today. Everything went good and it runs great. But the mileage seems to have dropped alot. On an hour drive tonight I averaged about 15mpg. For wiring all I've done is to splice the wires for the starter, and wire in the reverse light switch. I checked Josh's write up for Gen 1 Legs, and it says to cut pin 20 on the ECU connector. According to the FSM's for 97, pin 20 of the ECU harness goes to the TPS and the CTS, so I doubt that's the one I want to cut. I also now have the ABS light on. The FSM's show an input to the ABS computer from the TCU. Any idea if I need to ground this or supply a voltage?

I've used registration cards and receipts found in the car to call the previous owner.

Looks good, let me know when you want to head over the hill and do mine

Happy Birthday John... Hope it was a good one

Did they actually see a leak? Or did they see evidence of a previous leak that wasn't cleaned up. If they just saw oil clinging to the crossmember and sterring rack, they could assume that the VC's are leaking since that is a common occurance.

... and appears to be floating?!?!?!?!?!??!

On my 97 Legacy, I got more than average life out of it. It started to bind occasionally at about 250k miles. I put the fuse in and kept driving it. At about 260k it started binding with the fuse in place, so I pulled the rear section of the driveshaft. At 265k the engine decided to sieze a crank bearing, while I had the engine out, I swapped in a 4eat that used to live in the SVX racer. What did I do to get such great service out of the trans? Not a damn thing... I bought the car in 1999 with 40k miles, from the time I bought the car to the time I pulled the trans out, it had the same ATF. I learned to autocross in that car, and while daily driving it saw redline shifts everyday. I took it off roading in the Pine Barrens in NJ and crossed through water over the bumper. I high centered it in the soft sand to the point that you could have changed all 4 wheels. When I did drain it prior to removal, the ATF looked like used motor oil and smelled very burnt. But somehow she kept running fine and shifted almost as good at the end as she did when I first bought her...