SevenSisters

I don't think the heat will hurt the bearings if you're not moving but it may cook out all the grease and mess up the seals. A Hubtamer should do the trick without heat. I used a slide hammer, but it busted up the bearings pretty good. Might be a good time to replace the bearings seeing it's got almost 200K. Isn't the rotor separate from the hub???? Is it rusted on too? Good Luck!

A used car dealer landlord. Is he a part time attorney too?

Getting all the air out is a pain. I've used a little vacuum pump to suck out some of the trapped air, but it's still a pain. What would your bleed setup consist of and walk me through the procedure. Thanks

On the 2.2 you just need to take off the Mickey Mouse plastic cover to inspect the belt. Expect to break some of the brass threaded inserts before you're done. I would look for cracking or other deterioration of the belt. I think Subaru has a width spec too. Your mechanic does not have to take everything apart to do this.

I have not done a timing belt replacement yet, but is it common to UNPLUG the fans or remove the radiator when the TB is changed to gain access?

As I recall, the black and green connectors are close together. Mine were covered with electrical tape and not easy to see. I doubt if yours is in a different place.

You are creeping up on the 120K service. You may as well figure a timing belt while you're changing the water pump plus crank and cam seals. Maybe a tensioner too. Changing accesory belts would be a good idea too. Get a quote from a dealer and let the seller know you'll need to put $XXX into it in about 10K miles.

Look under the hood at the emissions diagram for the"Air assist injector solenoid valve". It sounds like it's not working or not getting the proper signal to work. Maybe someone can tell you how to test it and check the input to it. My FSM is too old for this component.

Check the adjustment of the rear shoes. If the shoes have to move to far,to reach the drums, you really have to pump up (fill) the cylinders. Hence, all the symptoms you describe.

Sorry, I've got rotors in the back with little drums for the emergency brake. Figured they'd all be like that for you guys with new cars. Are you sure there's no holes to use a bolt to push off the drums? Every car I've had incorporated this feature.

Run it without the belt (s) to see if its belt or accessory related. I'm guessing that over tightening the belt messed up a bearing some place. With the belt off, rotate the accessory pulleys to see if you can locate the source. On the other hand, you may have loosened a belt too much and it's squealing.

Corrosion can sometimes make it difficult. Try some PB Blaster at the hub/rotor interface and insert two bolts into the rotor (you'll see where it's threaded. Lube them a little) to force the rotor off. If they start to move, but drag, then you'll have to move the shoes in with the adjuster. Occasionally, I've needed a little heat to bust mine loose after a couple of winters.

Buy a $2 trim removal tool and pull off the door panel to find out why the windows and door lock won't work. If the spearker is in the door, check it out too. Replace the dome bulb, turn the switch from always off, or check the door and dome switches. Check owners manual to see what lights come on at start up. You may have a burnt out ABS bulb. Good Luck

Looks good to me. If you don't want to see what's behind it, spray it all flat black.

Have you checked your heat shields?

The dealer can probably still get OE parts. If not, call a bone yard. You may get lucky and just find something disconnected or binding when you take off the door panel.

From the ’91 FSM: Symptom: Vehicle does not start in “R” only (engine revving up): Problem parts: Select cable Select lever Control valve Low and reverse clutch Reverse clutch Try the fluid change and check level first.

Two hours at Watkins Glenn or three years of freeway driving, maybe more. I would think it all depends on how you drive and where you live. My rotors generally rust up and chew up the pads. Everything gets replaced after about three years of mostly highway driving.

Carl brings up some great points. I'd even pay more than other places IF the service was superior. I'ts like paying a little more at the local hardware store because the guy explains what you need, finds it, tells you how to install it, and points out any pitfalls of a home repair job vs talking to the kid at the big box store that says if you don't see it on the shelf, they must not have it. Once again good luck and don't forget wheel bearings, visors, and fuel senders.

Check all your components for leaks: coolant overflow tank Radiator Radiator hoses/connections Thermostat housing Heater hoses Freeze plugs maybe some more? Look at the front of your timing belt cover to see if there are any drips that would indicate a leaking water pump. Like the others posters said, leakage can blow along the underbody and drip off later. Hope it's not the head gaskets

Loose trim? Power steering pump? Heater fan? It would be nice to hear the sound. On this board we can post pictures and add links. Wouldn't it be helpfull if we could add audio clips to the posts? How 'bout it?

The reponses to your complaint are probably on the money, but consider these too: Changing brands of gasoline can change the smell of your exhaust. I put a couple of bottles of Techcron in the 'ru and had a strong burnt grass oder. (probably addded too much) Fuel injector died during another episode of stange exhaust smells. The cat was probably overloaded with gas as the injector failed. I wouldn't be in a big hurry to change it until you're sure its a problem.

FWIW, Click and Clack called this the "wallet Vac".

My local news paper just ran a front page story about the new Goodyear Assurance tire. It's going to introduced this Spring. This tire has 3 different tread compounds and is claimed to be really good and still less expensive than major competitors. 80K warranty and one of those try it for 30 days guarantees, Time will tell, but this seems to be a real winner. From what I've read and heard, I think it will kick the French back to the Stone Age.

Not to be a skeptic, but you’re going to have to define “OE” and “Quality” parts. When I was looking for parts to do a Legacy bearing replacement, a lot of sites claimed to be OE but in fact were not. In addition, parts counterfeiting is rampant with a lot of major brands. For this reason, I decided to go with an internet “genuine Subaru” parts seller. It was 1stsubaruparts. If you can offer parts of this quality level, I wish you the best of luck and might consider a purchase. If you plan on offering Chinese knock-offs, it may be a tough sell I agree, there is a lot of mark-up in parts. My brother-in-law used to work for a brake manufactuer. The USA made rotors you pay $100 for cost about $10 to make. To be successful, you'll need to offer real quality at a fair price and back up your products.