SevenSisters

Sorry, not groups, just Google web

The Turbo WRX guys have had similiar problems. Claimed it could have been a fuel problem related to turbo heat. Keep searching using the code number and "CEL" on Google Groups. I had to replace an injector once but it was a clear bad injector code and I've never tested one before. Easy enough to get them out (kinda just pop out after removing a couple cove screws) but you may need new seals when you put them back in. Try a cleaner before drastically removing them.

According to Carley, here’re a couple more things to consider. “a dirty or dead fuel injector or a compression problem (bad valve, leaky head gasket, rounded cam lobe, etc.)”. Run a Google search with Larry Carley and P0301

Sorry I assumed you had conventional drums in the back. Setright has covered the rear discs pretty well so I’ll just add a couple thoughts. When you compress the pistons with the C clamp, open the bleeder screws. This keeps crap from being forced backwards into the ABS pump. Close them to keep out air when you’ve got the piston in. If the pistons don’t move easily, you may need to rebuild or replace them. My calipers weren’t sliding very well so I popped off the 4 rubber seals (lock pin boots) and removed the caliper sliding bushings (lock pin sleeves) to be able to clean the old grease out and re-lube them and the sliding bolt (lock pin) so they moved easily. Parts stores have high temp brake grease for this. The rotor/drums do have two bolt holes to help you pull them off the hub. I needed some penetrating oil at the hub/disc contact area. I don’t remember any screw holding the disc to the hub (but look) and didn’t have to fuss at all with the parking brakes. I never found after market pads that came with all the shims Subaru uses. I wound up using one shim for each pad and some of the anti-squeal compound between the shim and pad. When you’re ready to bleed them, use a turkey baster to remove almost all of the old fluid from the reservoir, but not enough to let any air into the ports. Fill it and bleed, re-fill and bleed, keeping an eye on the fluid level. I needed a ½” drive breaker bar to remove the caliper mounting bracket (support) bolts. I also forgot to recommend a torque wrench when reassembling.

Welcome. First off, you should have a repair manual. I spent $100.00 in ’91 for a set of the FSM’s and they have paid for themselves at least 30 times. Haines and Chiltons sell manuals for a lot less and I’m sure other members can give you’re their preferences. Any of these will give you a good step by step procedure for the brakes. You’ll also need the right tools. A 3/8” drive socket set and combination wrench set may be sufficient, along with some wire brushes to clean things up. I’ve got rear discs, but you may need a couple of bolts to help pull your drums off. (Someone help me with the size) Brake spring and adjuster tools are nice but not absolutely needed. Don’t forget jack stands. You’ll most likely need a good rust penetrate to help get things apart and some good high temperature brake grease for the sliding parts when you put things back together. Of course you need shoes and probably new drums and hardware like the self adjusters and maybe a bleeder screw or two. You may be well advised to get rebuilt cylinders too. I went Chinese for my rotors because of the age of my car. Time will tell. The point is you don’t need ceramic pads or super expensive components in my opinion. They’re nice, but just make sure any worn or rusted parts are replaced. You’ll also need some vinyl tubing, new brake fluid, and a helper to bleed the brakes and exchange all the old fluid. Bleed the fronts while you’re at it too. For a 2WD ‘ru, it should be easy to check, repack, or replace the rear bearings if warranted while you’re at it and have things apart. I almost forgot, you’ll also need another car to run out and get things you didn’t think you’d need when you started the job. I’m prone to take things apart first so I can take the pieces to the parts store and match the replacements. I’m sure there’s a lot I leaving out, but that’s why there are others with a lot more experience. Good Luck

Well, there go a sales opportunity to sell you a new set of wheels next time you come in. They probably would have told you that the wheels cracked because you hit a chuck hole. It's good you were watching them. And these are the same guys that want to sell brake jobs and strut replacements.

You should be OK. There's no way around it. You are not really mixing them in the bearing. When I did a wheel bearing replacement, I used a little different grease to grease the seal too. May be someone else has had this experience and can help.

Check one of the oneline used car guides and then subtract $300 for the wheel bearing, $450+ for the timing belt, water pump, seals, etc. Do this for anything out of the ordinary. Better yet, call him or another used car dealer up and ask what they'd give you for "yours". Good Luck

Most manufacturers caution against mixing greases with different bases eg lithium base, soap base, etc. I've always used the recommended grade and type but never knew if what I was using had the same base as what the manufactuter originaly put in. I found the same is true with gear oils. How do you know? To specifically answer the question, my '91 Legacy Subaru FSM states: "Each oil manufacturer has it's base oil and additives. Thus, do not mix two or more brands( Except engine oil)." They don't give any reason. Based on this, for a bearing I would clean out all the old grease, or push all the old stuff out in the case of applications like propeller shafts, double cardan joints, etc.

Consumer Reports did a report on All Season tires in November of 2001. They tested a wide range of premium, midline and economy tires. Depending on your budget and preferences, this article may help and your library should have it. The Kelly Navigator had good performance, price, and is “T” speed rated.

To get your lug nuts off, try a 1/2" drive breaker bar with the appropriate 6 point socket. If you don't have one, you'll need one anyway later. A little penetrating oil may help if they are rusty, but remove all traces of it later. You may also need a little heat on the nuts and a pipe to put over the breaker bar. When you get them off, you have to make a judgement call on how tight they were. In addition to new lug nuts, consider this: When you torque the lug nut, you stretch the stud relative to the torque you apply and it wants to pull back. This is what applies the clamping force to hold the wheel on. If significantly over torqued the first time, it will not be able to pull back as much the next time you torque it and may provide too little clamping force. Also, even at a lower torque, it may snap because it was over extended. For example, manufacutrers often recommend using new head bolts for just these reasons. When you do torque your lug nuts with a torque wrench, clean the studs with a wire brush and don't be tempted to lube them. Oil will give a higher stud elongation for a given torque because to nut is easier to turn. You should be OK, but consider the above.

I know the feeling. I had a garage hit me one time. If the shop does reputable work you should be OK. It is fortunate that you took the time to become knowledgeable about your car. The engine damage was probably unexpected for the shop. I would just keep an eye out for alignment related tracking, tire wear, and vibration issues.

I'd encourage you to get a full size spare and include it in the rotation pattern. If you ever encounter non-repaiable tire damage, you'll have a real spare of the correct circumference and not get caught in the "Do I need four new tires" delema. Plus, you won't have to pay full retail to a weasel tire dealer if your away from home on a trip.

The Goodyear Ultra Grip is a good snow tire. Tire Rack rated them "Superior" I can't tell you about Finnish tires, but I'm happy with these in Ohio winters. I agree with other posters, get a set of winter wheels to save your tires from mounting damage. Plus, you can switch them yourself when needed in about an hour.

I had the same blower problem a few years ago. I never could figure out how the critters could get in and pack it full of leaves and crap. I remember having to re-solder the "fuse" in the resistor pack because the blower was jammed and it blew. The air intake is under the front windshield and covered with grill work, the doors and windows were closed. Is there another mode of entry that is common knowledge in the mouse community or did they chew through something under the car I didn't see?

With about 120K on my '91 Legacy, I suspect the starter contacts will be ready to go soon. In order to be prepared for this when this happens or even proactively replace the contacts before they go, what do I need and where do I get them? Thanks

FYI: Firestone made or at least sold plugs in the '50s with a radioactive Polonium electrode.

This subject has been thoroughly explored buy one of the major aluminum wheel manufacturers and the trucking industry because of the occurrence of medium truck "wheel-offs". Their results showed that these devices were not accurate and did not yield the intended torque. All wheel and tire manufacturers insist in their safety literature that a properly calibrated torque wrench be used to establish the proper lug nut torque and hence, wheel clamping force. If it don't work for trucks, it don't work for cars. You'll save a lot of warped discs and broken studs if you use a torque wrench. An impact wrench, if used, should be set well below the final torque to allow the proper value to be achieved with a torque wrench. Happy Holidays to all.

With AWD, there are two sending units as you seem to be aware. I believe the passenger side has the pump. It's the larger, oval assembly, not the round one.

Do you want us to vote or do you want us to vote for one of the two suggestions you made?

A seal installer would be nice but I've just used a block of wood to distribute the force over the whole circumference of the seal and tapped them into place with a hammer. My original seals most likely failed because of rust formation on the axle which in turn chewed up the seal. I have not seen a Subaru half shaft but remember thinking how nice it would be if the sealing surface of the axle was coated with teflon to aid lubricity and prevent rust. Maybe that's what it is. Does it feel slippery? A lot of PTFE coatings are green, but this may just be some Subaru color coding scheme. If the coating is smooth though, I wouldn't sand it off.

Now I remember why I was so pissed when I had to fix mine. My FSM has some duplicate pages and is missing some that are needed. Here's a little more info. Maybe someone else can help too.

If you bought your car new, you probably paid a couple of hundred dollars above what a simple, manual 3 point seatbelt system would have cost because someone mandated an automatic system to keep us safe. I had the same type of problem and fiddled with the switches until it worked. It was just an adjustment but I can't remember which switch was the culprit. Here are the components that replaced the manual system: ignition switch door lock switch front limit switch rear limit switch 2 relays CPU CEL trouble code indicator (that right, it's so simple you need help from the computer to fix it) Start with a diagnostic. I've tried to attach the codes. Good Luck

Come on. You just described the attributes of aluminum. I'm not a rocket scientist, but I think this is a fair question and someone at Subaru or NASA could certianly improve the heat sheild situation. As I said, it's minor but it seems to be a rather wide spread reason for questions and complaints. Just my observation.

Synthetic oils are good from all I've read and heard. Conventional oils are also good. I bet the guys with 300K miles on their 'ru's are running conventional oils. Synthetic oils probably last longer under optimal conditions, but fuel contanination and the like will probably make you want to change your oil at about 5K miles anyway and negate the inherent benifits of synoil. Some users have complained about leaks, but at only 70K, do it if you want. By the way, the only leak I have with conventional oil is at the O-ring on the filler tube and some day I'll fix it.