leon

had some free time today so i bought some 12.95 mm inlet diameter heater hose from my local store and connected my plugged up aav to the air intake boot as seen in the pic below http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/thumbs/aav_mod_s.JPG it cost me a total of 4 dollars and took me about 10 mins trying to bend the hose into a strange shape - there is a bit of a kink in the hose that i wanna fix later on to connect the hose to the intake boot i had to disconnect the canister hose (auxillary turbo only) and plug it up im happy to say the result is great, my car starts up at 1500 rpms and goes down to about 900 after 3 mins or so. maybe im just daydreaming but my car also seems smoother and quicker throttle response. so for all you intercooled ea82's try this one if you havent already!

i know some people here have done a rwd conversion, i would like to know how people have done it and did they encounter any problems afterwards. The reason being my car is part time 4wd and fwd and i have problems with torque steer (running alot of boost) plus going sideways could always be fun. Any advice on what i could do?

Thanks Mike. If i re route the aav to the air intake boot and disconnect the canisters auxillary air purge (turbo only) this should solve my problem right? i just wanna experiement a bit before i start drilling holes and welding pipes. :-\

I went through a similar phase of putting a huge gt wing on a hyundai. i got millions of laughs and no respect, i took it off after a few weeks. i now have a scoop on my l series which gives it a bit of goof. its a very personal opinion to how you dress up your car, but my ideal look is a fat bottom (wide body maybe) bodykit, lowered big mags - and a clean top - no spoilers at all and no scoop.

My aav is currently blocked with a bolt. i took out the bolt when the car was cold and felt a rush of vacuum before the engine died. i always thought that the aav was blowing not sucking air since it connects to the air intake duct. i thought since it is under vacuum the air must be drawn directed into the intake manifold?? so i dont understand why my engine died once i took out that bolt. it leads me to think is there any major differences by connecting the aav to the intercooler (throttle body side) or the air intake boot before the turbo. Surely i must be different if the air has to pass through the turbo first (even at idle).

In theory, it sounds like thats what would happen, havent tried it myself though,

i have a few vac problems of my own (ea82T mpfi) from what i gather this picture here is for the heater, but there is a two lines that come out from it, the front one runs into the firewall, where is the second one suppose to go? this might explain why my heater doesnt work. From what i gather from the FSM (which usually isnt much) this should be the duty solenoids? i never really looked at it before but today i found that hose that runs behind the bracket does just that - it doesnt connect to anything !!? what is the function of this and where does it connect to? is this the egr? it sits next to the near to the distributor and has only one line going into it from the thottle body. p.s where does the hose that comes from the vacuum advance diaphram (also near the distributor) go to? mine is currently connected to the canister...which seems a bit odd. thanks in advance

I am guessing the orange circle is the egr solenoid and the green circle is the purge canister solenoid - or is it the other way? I broke my solenoid (the orange circle) and now i just have the line running from below the throttle body (there are two lines - the one on the left). it just empties into the atmosphere, this line is a vacuum line i am guessing? has anyone any ideas where i could feed this line to ( my canister perhaps?) thanks

God knows why anyone would put such a small battery in his car. The previous owner of the car i bought put a 250 cold cranking amp with 11 min RC time (reserve). it is half the size of the batterys you buy in the shop nowadays. Anyways, itss dead now (sigh of relief :banana: ) i thought i might as well do a relocation in the boot. Plus my cables seem to be more corrosion than copper. Has anyone done this? im just after ideas? someone told me i just have to run (preferably) a nice fat positive wire to the engine bay and ground the negative somewhere in the boot. Also i need a good idea to stop the battery from making my boot into a horror movie. p.s. there is no max size for a battery right?

Ok, so it would be easier for me to connect the aav hose to the intake air boot - the one between the afm and the turbo (if this works just as good). but how does the air flow in this hose, is it from air intake side into the thermostat? why does it have to go there? sorry if im a bit thick, but i just wanna make sure i do it properly :-\

Hey man, thats a sweet ride you got, did you fix up the damage to that quarter panel in the second pic? Im interested to know how the intercooler is and how you did the piping, where did u slot it through? I have a toyato soarer as a top mount, i keep tossing up the idea of a front mount but there is no space for it, i would seriously have to grind some metal to get pipes there. did you change the radiotor? tell me the trick

damn ugly stock steering wheel if you ask me.. cant wait to change it.. what do you guys think of my boost gauge location. im sure its controversial. im going for that sleeper look.

what i would like to know is how the aav line can still go to the throttle body if you have an intercooler. did you just drill a hole in your intercooler piping and weld a T section to it? is there any easier way? doesnt this affect the performance of the intercooler by losing pressure? what happens to the aav when running on boost?

It is one of two relays located near the ecu under the steering column. the relay operates when the engine is turned and not when the key is on, so it is best to check for the sound which one it is. the other relay would be ignition. there maybe others like power windows etc.

Lambda is what they the race engineers use. i believe it is 14.7 to be stoich balanced. lambda is the proportion to this so that a 11.1 would be 0.75 lambda. exhaust gas is useful for tuning but you do not need the sensor. manxsta if your interested i am involved in formula SAE at my uni, which is basically building a small scale F1 car. the sensors are kept to a minumum for simplicity and weight loss, but some of the important ones are tps, injectors, wheel speed and coils. even amp (absolute manifold pressure) can be correlated back to tps. and once the car is heated up to correct temp, the thermo's dont change much. hope this helps

I do admit the exhaust looks kinda outof proportion especially the shape of the rear bar, a bit like a box with a big sausage hanging off it. the problem is i am sitting quite low so i bang it on every driveway. but i told myself when it comes time to change i ll go back down to 3 inchs. i ll have a look at the ram air through the fender, has anyone done this before? i know a few guys here have done the cold air intake near the front right wheel. but the point of ram air is to get positive air pressure so it would have to be somewhere along the front of the car preferebly with a funnel shape going into it. it might look very dorky if not done right too. the car is painted ford xr6 monza red which is a more cherry brighter than the brat red. im not sure what the intercooler piping is from but it is very restrictive and ugly. im thinking of changing it...:-\

I know what you are talking about. fart guns on rice mobiles. but believe me, this is not the same thing. (i also have a hyundai with a fart gun) The sound from my rx makes wrx's sound like mice squeekss. nothing but beef comes out - thats why i aint going to upgrade the sound system, i dont think i could hear it anyway oil cooler sounds like a good idea, but i havent done any research on that yet - too busy fixing my vacuum leaks the air flow meter is actually jammed into the side of the engine bay ( the K&N is too big) so it doesnt flap around. I have always want to make a ram air system ( thats why i havent bothered with cold air intake) , but its so difficult with the layout of the radiator. there is no space to duct any hoses to the front of the car. but the thought is tingling ram air + turbocharged =

Hey Stickey I had the same problem after i got my car. It used to struggle when i put my foot down all the way, but would kinda cruise ok. it was quite an irregular jerk under throttle, (but maybe that was from the help of my turbo) but i would get a few split seconds of power and then it would slow down for a few split seconds. so i took off the disi cap and found enough crud and corrosion to ppepper a steak sandwhich. after i changed it i found smoothness existed after all. but then again, there were some days when i could start my car and drive around just like normal - i reckon its related to how much crap u got in the disi cap. either that or it might be your injectors, but electricals are alot easier to check anyho.:cool: leon

Hey guys, ive been reading any info i can about my engine - ea82t mpfi - but i just need to clarify things, i have a funny feeling that the guy i bought my car from just shoved any pipe onto any knob and called it a day. which brings me to query if all my lines, in particular the vacuum ones are where they are suppose to be pic1 see the hose coming off the back of the thermostat housing, i gather it is the aav (controls the cold start idle). as you can see mine has a bit bolt in there. i am told it goes to the air intake. but my engine is intercooled so it has no place to go. can i put this in the air intake boot (the black plastic tube connecting afm to turbo) ? as you can see in this pic. the intake boot side hose connects to a T pipe. one side of it goes to the purge canister hose closest to the firewall (out of the 3 others). The T pipe also sends off a branch that runs across the engine to the distributor (or rather a metal valve that connects to it. see pic 2 another query - can you see the red electrical tape covering the metal hose below the coolant sensor to the far right of pic1? that pipe used to go to my purge solenoid valve, until i broke it. i called up subaru and they said it wasnt important. but is there a good place i should connect a rubber hose to? my old one use to travel about 4 cms left of the picture to the intake manifold ( i think its not suppose to be like that. pic2 could someone tell me what that metal valve connected to the distributor does, and there is another similar looking object but sitting across horizontally to the left in pic2. the rubber hose off that (is it the egr?) goes to the same T connection that goes to my purge solenoid (its T joint is infront of the throttle body) pic3 pic3 is of my canister just under my air pod. the 1st hose (top one) goes to the side of the intake boot (see pic1). accoring to the manual the second hose is fuel evaporation. the rx rally pdf (floating around on this website) says that you can disconnect this hose to stop the engine from running rich. but it doesnt say to plug the line up. has anyone done anything like this? pic4 pic4 is a tricky one. i took it underneath the engine. its my oil pressure gauge right next to my oil filter. the connection goes into a screw at the middle of the gauge. but its very loose. could this be the reason my check oil light on the dash always flickers on and off? pic5 pic 5 shows my throttle body (some dodgy connections) and part of the intercooler piping. there is a sensor of some sort behind the thottle body. subaru said this is my idle air control for air condition. but the manual says it is a knock sensor (for turbo only) i apologise for such a lenghty post, but i figur i might as well say all my problems at once rather than have many different threads. as i mentioned before not many mechanics know anything about this car around here, and i have only peiced bits of the manual from diagrams i have to start my car by roll starting it (thank god its a manual) it seems to work after that, but if i dont drive it for 3 days or more i have to roll start it again. is it my battery (reads 12.2 volts 140 cc amps) or could it be ignition timing (i think it might be off) or something else. after 3 days it cranks but usually only once. I just wanna thank anyone who has read this far, i know i probably wouldnt have .. just joking. I appreciate any help -> the more the better

Hey guys. is there a copy of the FSM around? I know i'g gonna get flamed for asking this, but i ve done all the searchs and apart from sifting through hundreds of pages with the words FSM in them (including this one ) all i get is dead links - like the one from MilesFOx's website. If there actually is a copy of this delicate treasure online i think we should glorify that in a thread all for its own. Is there anyone else that is looking for it or am i the only subie nut without a book. the reason being - i have a 86 efi rx turbo in australia (pretty far away from most of you guys) and every mechanic i go to says i ve never heard of your car or they say it must be an import and then shrug their shoulders. So apart from the fact that i like to fix my own cars, it looks like i have no choice. i did find a copy of the HTKYSA though. so if anyone could let me know where i could get my greedy paws on this info Thanks in advance

The exhaust is a 2.5 inch turboback to a 4.5 inch DRIFT cannon muffler. It is the most monstrous sounding car i have ever heard ....thats why i bought it!!! For those who like their cars super quiet this is not what you want to see (or hear) drive past your house on a monday midnight. Im sure the response will be a muffled F@#k y@u! And yes i got heaps of pics just check out "leon" in club members photos. or if your like me and damn lazy... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=19187

The pun is that the plate is suppose to say import1 - me being in Australia and all... I guess its kinda silly really, unless i was driving my car in japan... which would be kinda fun i thinnk

Hey guys. I'm a newbie...just thought i would show my wheels...gotta few photos, feel free to check them out and leave any comments Note the pun on "import1" This car is fun to drive, i havent done too many mods since i bought it, mostly just repairs and maintainence -- the best way to start i think. I have a few problems like hard starting, poor idle when cold, the ecs light is permanently on (after i had an engine transplant is was like that) and something that frightens me a little - > the check oil light flickers on when under acceleration. can anyone help me with this? and yes i have checked my oil. Thanks for any info. Leon p.s red is faster

See that red circle in that last photo, with the thermostat housing... and the rubber pipe coming off behind it and going to the edge of the photo. what is that? and what does it do? my hose was hanging loose not connected to anything. one mechanic told me it used to have coolant in it because it had rust residue. he suggested it was going to the turbo for extra cooling at one stage but a switch must have disconnected the flow....hmmm. but what do mechanics know? i heard from somewhere it used to go into the intake? is this true? and what can i do if i am intercooled?? would it affect my idle- because my idle is terrible..