kudd

If you do end up searching for a used starter remember that 5 speed ones are different than the automatic ones. Little something I learned by default one day.

Thanks esp to Grossgary! Worked like a charm....after we actually got the temp sensor wire plugged in that is! Only other thing we had to do was pull a canister and bracket off the '95 by the right headlight. The threaded holes for it were on the '98 so no problem. BUT, we're lucky we had the donor car sitting there. If we'd just had the engine we would have been off searching, so plan ahead if you're doing it. Anybody in the market for a slightly cooked 2.5? Shhhh...not all at once! Thx again!

Yeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaaaaw! I'm friggin' jazzed on this! I been screwin' around lookin' for intakes off 4EAT.... And, I checked my exhausts....2 ports! It should be back on the road by the end of the weekend! Thanks a ton!

Sweet! Thanks for the advice/info. The plot thickens in that the '95 LSi used to be an automatic and was converted (before we bought it) to 5MT. The '95 engine that was in it, (it lost a ring/ burned oil), did have the EGR. The engine that's in it now does not have EGR, so it could be out of a '95 5MT I guess. If I can really just plug it in then I'm good to go! (Makes me wonder why I was told the intakes/wiring had to be switched....:-\)

Man...for some reason my link to USMB was bad and I thought this message board was gonzo! I'm stoked I found my way back! Anyhow, I'm trying to replace an EJ25 in a '98 GT that has a bad head gasket ( go figure) with an EJ22 that was in a '95 LSi, though I believe this engine came from a '96 of some sort. One of my problems is that the EJ25 car has a 4sp automatic tranny (4AT). The donor EJ22 engine came from a car with a 5sp Manual tranny (5MT). I've been told I need to replace the intake I have with an EJ22 intake that came from a 4AT car. What I'm wondering is if I can just pull the wiring off the EJ25 intake and put it on the EJ22 intake that I have and plug 'er in? Anybody have experience with this? Thx!

Try this link. And the radio shack bulbs are easy to use. And I didn't use the shims he describes for our '98 Outback. ( I think the whole problem is related to the cup holders being right above the controls) http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/legacy_hvac_bulb_replacement-t91.html?t=91

I got a filler pipe from Tristan. PM'd him so no thread to reference, but he was great at getting back to me with answers, good (best I could find) price and shipped quickly. I'll definitely contact him again next time I need a new part. cheers all!

Thanks guys, and yep... I was going by memory on those values and sure as shootin' the inner 2 are the 25 and the outer 4 are the 132 in lb (which I converted to 11 ft lb) then the 90 and 90 and I hope life is good! Now if only it all cures our problems we'll be really happy.... Thanks for your help!!! kudd

Too new for my blood, so I can't help you. Good luck!

All I got to say is be glad ya don't live in Vermont...well, as far a salt and rust go. There is a product here that supposedly electronically keeps rust from forming, negative ions or something. If I had the spare $200 I'd give it a try. In the meantime, it's time to get the oil spray job done again before winter. cheers!

Thx for the input, Keith. The thing that's weird in the book is it doesn't say to back off to 132 in lbs.... it lists it as if it's greater than the 25 ft lbs it just listed. S'pose I should break down and get a real subie shop manual.... Thx- kudd

We have a '95 wagon. Been a great car. We got it as a baby with only 125k on it. We now have about 170k. Had a fuel pump relay go that was a hassle, and somebody had installed and removed an alarm system, who's wiring caused our starter to lock out until we figured it out and removed their wire spagetti. Other than that it's been good ( knock, knock knock on wood....) Good luck with yours!

I’m curious about how you guys that know something torque your head bolts for a ‘95 2.2. ( I apologize, I still don’t have a handle on the EJ22 numbers). Anyhow, I did a search but couldn’t find the basic info. My Haynes manual has me tighten them, then back them off to nothing, but then it says go to 25 Ft lb, then 132 In lb (which is 11 ft lb by my math....??) then 90 degrees then 90 degrees again. This makes not a lot of sense to me. :-\ And it never gives me a final torque value . So, any chance someone can straighten me out on this? Many thanks in advance. kudd

I do know that the '93 head will not fit on '95. '95 has a roller cam set up and I was told by local subie guru's that '95 head is unique to that year. Also, the pipe off the back..(EGR?) isn't on the '93. Not alot of info but that's what I learned as I tried to swap a head off our junk '93 onto the '95.

Thanks again. I think I've found the problem... the car used to have a security sytem which was removed. There is a relay in that mess that appears to be the culprit. It at least has the ability to kill power to the starter when removed. I'm gonna remove all of security wiring mess and put it back to original... (well with some soldered splices) and hope that cures it. Thanks for all the advice! kudd

Thanks guys... I hadn't even considered the ignition. I doubt I can do the "go by" test since it lights up so quickly when it works properly. Must be the single little wire next to the +cable comes from the ignition in some fashion, so I suppose when it isn't working I can check it for some voltage, yes? thx- kudd

Hi kids... looking for advice as usual...and this is the best place to come. 95 Legacy, 160k, AWD auto has intermittant lack of starter trying to spin issue, now and then for 2-3 months. Local wrench type says starter going...but I'm sceptical. So I replace the starter contacts... it still happens. So I put in a NAPA rebuilt starter.... it still happens, this time in their (NAPA's) yard when returning core. They swap me a premium starter, and check battery while they're at it, so I know battery cells are all good. So I've put (2) re-manufactured starters in it in 3 days and this morning it does it again. So, my question is, what relay do I have to replace to get this intermittant juice to starter issue to go away? Where does that little wire near the + contact go..I suspect it's related to the culprit... Thx in advance for any insight you guys can offer... and cheers! kudd

I'm sure everybody knows this.... except whoever changed one before I owned it, so I'll add it anyhow. When ya do get a new axel and pop that pin out that holds the axel to the tranny ( the DOJ?) it is a one way fit. There is a little recess on the side it is supposed to go into and come back out of. So be sure ya drive it out and re-install it the right way, or you'll end up under there with a friggin' drill inventing new curses the next time. On my gen1 legacy's I drive 'em out from above, put the axel on, rotate 180 degrees and drive back in from above... on the passenger side. Drivers side ya gotta do from below. Your Forester, and your mileage may vary. cheers!

Wow...you guys are way beyond me. I was gonna send a pic of my bad relay but it seems to have been deep sixed on me. ( Does that mean I shouldn't have left it on the kitchen counter?) Good luck with all yer testing.

The relay on my 95 wagon is above the regular fuse box inside by your left foot. It was/is kinda stuck up there flopping around. Didn't have to pull the fuse box to get at it...but maybe someone did before. There are (2) relays there so you can swap them and see if pump works then. I think the other one was for the heater. Of course I wasn't smart enough to track down the relay until replacing a perfectly good fuel pump....

I'm sure there's a zillion places, but you can go to Edmunds.com like you were going to look up value and on the left you'll see a specifications. Maybe this will work: http://www.edmunds.com/used/1995/subaru/legacy/17259/specs.html

Ahh ha... I found it in a similar thread listed. This one has the "B" as FWD5speed which is what I suspected . http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/VIN_decode.jpg cheers!

Hmmmm... this is a puzzler for me then. I'm trying to figure out from the VIN if the car is AWD. The Legacy is out of state and the guy says it's rear wheel drive. So I ask if he means AWD and he says nope, rear wheel drive. :-\ And the 11th digit is "B" which doesn't appear in any of the info I've seen here. Anybody have any clues? The number is JF1BJ6525LB938786. I put the number in the russia site and got nothing useful. The other sites offer no explanation for the "B" that I could see. thx all- kudd

Wow...this site never ceases to amaze me. 53 minutes and I got exactly what I was looking for!!!! Thx!

I know there's a post in here somewhere with a link to a site that had info on how to read Legacy VINs. I been searching for it but can't track it down. Any help I'd sure appreciate. Thx a ton!