thealleyboy

Whereabouts did you mount that glasspack Chux? Same area as OEM muffler, or did you shorten the cat pipe? Also, did you notice a difference (in performance) running the glass pack? Seems like the cat is where the performance "bottleneck" occurs, with the muffler not being as critical. Just curious... John

The motor we used was an "EA82" out of another '87. The removal/installation wasn't bad at all - even without the use of a crane. The most time consuming part was prepping the motor for installation. We had to improvise with what we had laying around, and fortunately, there was enough there to piece it all together. We also lucked out in that, the seals and pumps were holding up well, and didn't need servicing before installing the motor. Again, I'm very surprised that it ran so well with so much stripped away. Never would have thought so in an ECU equipped vehicle. Jason was absolutely correct!! When we nail it down, I'll document the intake and carb setup, timing, additional parts needed, etc, so it can be duplicated again. John

Ed: Since you have already removed the heads, whether the gasket was blown at the time is irrelevant. The only thing I would be concerned about is whether one of the other systems (coolant, oil) failed, causing your problems. If so, that issue will have to be addressed too. You could chance it, and assume that it was a blown HG. Some (but not all) of symptoms you describe are typical. You might get lucky - especially if you can identify another component that has failed. But if it were me, I would get in touch with a machine shop. They have the equipment to test any of these possibile theories, whereas everyone else is just guessing. Either of the 2 shops I referred you to can give you a good opinion. Unless you have a really good reason to think it was just a common HG failure, I probably wouldn't risk it. good luck, John

Excellent pix and write-up Jason!! I've had some bad luck with recent projects, but this one is definitely looking like a winner so far. As Jason said, we threw this one together in a hurry, with only a couple of minor detours. It was buried in the field in the morning, in the garage by noon, and pissing off my neighbors by bedtime!! From the I'm kinda surprised it ran as smoothly as it did - given the extent of the mods. No "check engine" or "EGR" lights whatsoever!! We ran out of time to tune it properly, but it ran amazingly smooth, and had strong vitals -judging by the factory guages. I also suspect the choke system as being responsble for the high idle. Shouldn't be hard to narrow down after double checking all the cap-offs, and sealing off any remaining exhaust/vacuum ports. Many thanks to Jason and Jim for busting some serious rump roast, and getting things done. John

The Hippie book (How to Keep your Subaru Alive) is excellent for the EA81 series, but is a little weak on the EA82's, particularly the FI models like your Loyale. Still, the practical info on the Subes is hard to beat. Another "classic" book for this era of cars (IMO) is the "Reader's Digest Complete Care Manual". It is not Sube-specific, but explains beginner and intermediate procedures thoroughly, and has excellent drawings. A good balance of theory and the how-to, and covers the technology that was current at the time these cars were built. It is long out of print, but they pop up from time to time at yard sales, and second-hand stores. Highly recommended... good luck, John

The correct tool is a brake drum puller. Your local parts store may have one they lend to customers. A large gear puller will work too. Your "good" drum may be turnable, but you'll have to replace the one that's cracked. Besides brand new brake shoes, I would also reccommend the hardware kit (less than $10 per side) which includes fresh springs. good luck, John

All the advice above is excellent. If you must have a mechanic do all this, I agree that you go all the way and do the additional items. A cooling system overhaul may be on the horizon, as well. Maybe before the long trip (?) With the low miles you have on that A/T, you may want to consider a "transmission fluid replacement" procedure. Changing trans fluid on an older A/T can be risky, but if it's sucessful it could help the rough shifting. AT's are dogs as far as RPMs, but you may want to play around with the timing to see if you can hit the right spot. If it is set to specs, it will do better on gas - at the expense of accelarating power. Myself, I would bump it up until it starts pinging... good luck, John

Ed: Looks like you are making a lot of progress. I'll keep my fingers crossed (but wont' hold my breath) on those heads. I PM'd you regarding the parts you asked about. Definitely can be done if you are serious. Also, still have lots of turbo stuff lying around. Some of us might be getting together Sunday. Maybe we can run out to your place, or you are welcome to stop by my place. John

Your title to the car, or proof of ownership, should list a serial #. If the VIN# is not on the door plate, check the top of the dash (front drivers side). Another place would be the firewall towards the passenger side. John

Jason: I agree. That's a very condescending statement for him to make about our old Subes. Why wouldn't someone go to the trouble for a 20 year old car? Alot of us do. I hope Cobb (or someone else) comes thru and makes him eat those words... John

Sometimes the h20 pump can be hard to diagnose. Look at the color of the coolant that is dripping. If it is yellow/brownish, this is a sign that it is coming from the weep hole. good luck, John

Guessing the model year by the date on the plate works most, but not all, of the time. The reason is that different plants have different production schedules. Some retool frequently - others hardly at all. One of the Subes I owned had a late 87 manufacture date (Oct, I believe), but was still an 87 model. The VIN code is the only way to be 100% sure what the model year is. You should get into the habit of decoding the VIN's everytime you buy a car. Lots of useful info about how the car was equipped when it rolled off the assembly line. Subaru USA is very good about providing this information to Sube owners. good luck, John

Yep, a punch should do the trick. You may want to get a small jack under there the relieve pressure during dissasembly, and to guide the components back into place when reassembling. good luck, john

Advance actually has a very good distribution network in place. In my area (Columbus, OH) they are probably just a step behind NAPA in terms of speed. They seem to have access to a lot more of hard-to-find items than places like Autozone. Their prices, quality of merchandise, and cross-reference materials are also pretty good. Sounds like you got some bad counter help. This happens more often at the discount chains, but is certainly not typical. I would look for an Advance that is in close proximity to a competing chain. Seems like these locations are better run, and have the best counter help. You can also help your cause by asking lots of questions, asking to look at blow-up diagrams, etc. If there is more than one part #, ask them to order both. Take your old parts in whenever possible. Even the doofiest counter guy can usually match things up correctly. If you don't feel confident when you place the order, don't place the order!! good luck, John

The problem with the alloy type nuts is that they are so uncommon. You will not be able walk into your local parts store and find these. I had a b*tch of a time finding a set for mine (thanks Chef Tim!!) Before finding my set, I had considered drilling out the holes and going with a universal mag-type lug nut (with washer). You could probably do this on your workbench if you have a brand new bit, and a steady hand. Having a machine shop drill them out would be even better. As far as the steels, you would have many choices - both OEM and aftermarket. good luck, John

I usually take the whole trailing arm off, and have the bearing/axle pressed together at a machine shop in one shot. Lots of people do them at home, but I think its worth the small price to get them pressed professionally. This will assure that the bearing goes in properly, and without any damage. Also, you won't tear up the bearing or seal while installing the axle. good luck, John

Your are lucky because aftermarket RQ's are available for the sedans (thru Mill's Supply). The best way to make the reapir is to cut out the old ones, and weld in replacements. Riveting is almost as good, and is easier and cheaper for the do-it-yourself body man. As mentioned above, the finish work is where you'll run into a lot of time. The nicer you want it to look, and the longer you want the repair to last, the more work will be involved. There are some shortcuts, but not many. In some cases it is not worth the time and effort to do the repair correctly, even though the out-of-pocket costs are low. I would look at the entire car carefully before going hog wild on the rear quarters. It's always a shame to have to junk a car that looks good body wise, but is rotted out structurally. good luck, John

Are the timing belt covers still off? If not, you may want to remove them to get a good look the seals and oil pump area. I don't think the PCV is to blame, but you could take it out and see if it still "rattles". If not, then replace it. John

An oil leak is no reason to bail on this car. Oftentimes the problems that seem most severe are the easiest to correct. Again, you have to determine the source of the leak(s). Obviously, the mechanic you are using isn't diagnosing this properly. I would get another mechanic involved, perferably someone who knows Subes, and consider seeking restitution from the shop you are using presently. good luck, John

Well, I don't "buy this theory", and have explained why. As Pyro stated, the best test is the road test. Constant maintenance is probably more important than the amount of grease in the cavity - provided that the amount of grease is at least adequete. The bearings themselves are designed to last 100k or more, but the grease is not. Good luck, John

I have always packed them completely full. I'm not sure I buy the theory about "overpacking" causing more friction. I don't think the hub can seal well enough to hold that kind of constant pressure. If the bearing is not packed in grease, it is partially packed in air. Grease lubricates better than air. ("Alley" logic). Grease would also displace other foreign substances like water and dirt, and this helps prolong bearing life. good luck, John

It's always a good idea to inspect/repack bearings periodically, but if this is your first go-round, you may want check it at say - 500 miles. The temp should not be a concern. Only that there is enough grease to lubricate the bearing, and perhaps that it is seated properly. You'll know next time you get in there... good luck, John

If I were you, I would get that engine bay cleaned out, and find the real source of the leak before spending any more dough. Sometimes leaks can be difficult to find, and your mechanic may be "throwing" seals at it, cause he's too lazy to diagnose it properly. With the engine cleaned, anyone (including you) can pinpoint the leak visually. You can then decide if you want to do it yourself, or pay someone else for the repair. If you decide to do this, remove the skid plate, and side splash sheilds so you can get all the way round your motor. If you have drive-up ramps, this will be a piece of cake. Just run your engine till it's hot and spray 2-3 cans of Foamy Engine Brite from above and below. Let it sit awhile, then rinse with water. The engine will now be clean enough to identify fresh oil leaks. You can then go your mechanic, and call the shots - instead of the other way around. Otherwise, you are at the complete mercy of the skill, and trustworthiness, of the mechanic... good luck, John

My vote is for "C-Bus" (Columbus, OH) There's not a lot of "old school", but what is here, does represent with the best of them. There's Jason's modded 86 Turbo D/R Wagon for starters. And then there's Ed's nearly mint 87 RX. Noah has got the EA81 field covered with his collection. And I've got my fleet which includes a 89 GL Turbo Touring Wagon, and 91 xt6. The EA82 bashers are drying up around town, but there seem's to be plenty of new school derelicts around. Legacy, Impreza, some Forrester. I'll probably join them someday when I {finally} put my vehicles out to pasture... John

I had a situation like this, and it turned out that the threads were stripped on the axle. This prevented the bearing assembly from tightening fully, causing it to wear out quickly. This one had me stumped awhile because the threads were stripped very close to the "fully seated" position, and the play wasn't noticeble until the car was driven awhile. Unfortunately, you can't test this theory without dissasembling the axle assembly. Given all the problems you've had, might not be a bad idea anyway.... good luck, John