nomoaudi

Sorry. I was not aware that you had such an up hill battle. If you were not on the other side of the country I would offer some help. Tell you what. If you are really straped for cash and need a voltage tester and WILL USE ONE I will mail you my used but good radio shack digital pocket multimeter. I think that they are 14-20 bucks new. I need something a little higher end for the projects I am getting into now. THe only thing wrong with it is the "lid" has broken off other than that it's good to go!!!!!

I have only had my soob for about 2,000 miles. I was given the car after it had sat for a year after a timing belt broke. The work that I did to get it running was fairly extensive and took me the better part of a week to complete but I can say without a doubt that my 88 loyale efi wagon is the easiest car to work on that I have ever owned. The cost of ownership of this car is extremely low, very, very low. It cost me 1,100 dollars to have the rear main seal replaced on the audi I used to have , and for that much I will be able to have a subie thats almost like new!! Your loyale is a vastly dynamic vehicle and could last you many more miles. Mine has 222,000!! And remember it sat for a year before I got a hold of it. These cars are WELL made. From the materials the parts are made of right on up the ladder to how they are assembled and laid out in the car. After a year of sitting all the dash board light still worked the power windows still worked and the power door locks still worked along with all the interior lights. I think that your wagon still has a LITTLE life left in it. Relax and use your brain to troubleshoot the problem.

I was reading through the cheveron sales document yesterday and came across the 75w-140(?) transmission oil. Anyone running this in the ea82's ? 5speed d/r. I ran it in my '83 bmw r100s and it made a huge difference in the operation of the gearbox. I'm hoping the it will help the soob, not that the tranny is troubled by any standards. What are some common things one needs to do on the ea82 efi engine to help maintain good gas milage. Fule system cleaner, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air filter , fuel filter those are pretty much standard for any car anything specific to the soob?

Is your fan try to eat your radiator? The guys that posted before are correct, it is something to do the the repairs currently done to the car. Crank pulley bolt? Extra parts in the timing belt cover??

You should be using a non-detergent motor oil for a break-in, it helps those rings seat in, in-city driving is just fine for ring seating. If your not using the exhaust gases to push the rings out against the cylinder walls nice and hard they could seat improperly. Also, you might want to change the oil filter at about 250 miles, just add a little bit of the same non detergent motor oil to make up for what was in the filter. Then between 500 and 750 miles change the filter and oil now you can use the favorite delo 400!!! And then do a change at about 1500- 2000 miles and then you can change oil and filter at the reccomended normal intervals. NOTE: this is the break in schedule I used on my 85 toyota truck; our soobs might like something different, just some general advice. DId you do your own rebuild?

I know this shop is not on your side of the pond, but ,try Autosport they are located on westlake ave. I get all of my parts from these guys, and if I ever get around to redoing my '02 (1975 bmw) these are the guys that will be doing my engine. http://www.autosportseattle.com/ Also, I have an extra ea82 "almost" long block that I don't need. In case you don't have enough lying around your place.

So Ididn't need to buy a new fan switch!! Damn, wonder what I ended up paying for that thing, anyhooo took the car out for a spin and it stayed about a quater of the way up the gauge the whole time... Not as warm as I would like the engine to get but It didn't over heat!!! Wonder if this thermostat is faulty of the 10C difference in operating temperature is responsible for the COOL temp

Put in new therom stat and fan switch, I'll ceck the viscous fan when its hot to see if it is operating correctly. I put in a thermo that operates 10 degrees C. cooloer than the old one, I also filled the system through the thermo stat hole in hopes of getting air out. Will keep you all up to date. I think that filling the coolant system partially through the thermo stat hole has merit.. Thoughts?

had similar problem with my audi when I had it. 1993 90cs. The egr solenoid controls when the egr valve itself gets vacuum so that it can act upon the diaphram and hence actuate (sp?) the egr valve. What I had experianced on the audi was that I would get a fault code after a long stretch on the freeway and just as soon as I dropped down to 40 the check light would come on. I suggest that you start replacing vacuum lines. They are a cause of many problems that are not easily identified. SO back to my problem with the audi, the vacuum hose from the egr solenoid valve did not seal well at all on the egr valve end and after I replaced that vacuum hose and "manually" worked the egr vale (lots of sucking and blowing on the egr vacuum line, not a proud moment) I did not have any problems. with codes. Lots of other problems with that audi but not codes Yes my spelling is bad and my writting somewhat conveluted, I know. If you need clarification I shall provide.

well the temp here in seattle got up to 90 today and as far as I am concerned. That is way to hot, way way to hot. Now if I were down soulth on the coast of Mexico and had many beers and a cool ocean breeze 90 would be ok but not here tooling around town. Really I'm a low 70's type, but enough about me.... I have a new thermostat and a temp switch for the fan, after I install these new items I will try to burp the system better.. I guess any special subie ea82 cooling burping techniques I should use?

its a 88 efi 4wd d/r loyal wagon, metallic blue

No this is not an add for a free car give away. This is a post regarding my free car. passed emissions this morning!!! Whoooo hooooo after sitting for a year! Not a bad car, I really like the indepentdant suspension and the fact that it shifts in and out of four wheel drive with ease. Unfortunatly I am having some overheating problems with the car at about 50 mph. The water pump is new and the radiator is new, I have a new thermostat on the way. At what temp is the electric fan supposed to kick in, with the temp guage in the middle the fan was not on. Hmmmm, the motor in the fan has continuity but I did not get any continuity across the terminals at the temp.switch (mind you it is possible that the fluid was not hot enough. Any thoughts?

it is not a lsd. Thank you

Spent some time looking at archived posts but did not come up with a satisfactory answer to my question. Is my diff. a limited slip? I read that in a ea82 1988 loyal that the diffs were 3.7 but I also read some info to the contrary. My diff is a 3.9 and the p/n is 622006022. Thanks

I am not going to pull the engine!!!! I think I'll try somewoble and ujoint stuff to get at the oil pan gasket. Thanks

The timing belt project is complete!!! Minus burping the coolant system. Not bad cars to work on and parts were easy to get as well. So far my "free" 88 efi 4wd drive wagon has run me about 530 bucks, the belt repair job included everything thing in there except the oil pump, renewed the seals for it though. I think I could have bought another car for what I will have into this for parts money!! Such is the way of the soob. Couple of things left to do: Rear muffler passenger side front cv boot o2 sensor drivetrain fluid swap wheel bearings brakes?? rotors are rusty set timing replace oilpan gasket .... This looks like a major pita. Any tips on how to get the pan out with out much pain? I'm thinking a ujoint extention might do it but its hard to see with the car still on the ground. repolace valve cover gaskets. Oh and the lifters don't tick!!!!!!!!!!!!!! By the way this site was instumental in the timing belt project. I would also like to thank Autosport, Stoneway hardware, the academy, the almighty, my mom, and all my fans. Thank you.

Thank you, I'll call the parts sroe on monday and get this straightened out. The place I use is GOOD, just a minor over site. The guy behind the counter and myself agreed that it was the right one, pays to slown down a bit I guess. Never thought to look at the deck height... But now I now and so will the parts guy.

My 88 efi 4wd wagon is my first soob, it was also a "free" soob. A broken timing belt and an owner with a new car and house repairs to do brought me and the soob together. I finally finished the timing belt replacement this after noon. New idler, tensioners, front crank seal, oil pump seals, water pump timing belts, plugs, and radiator. Guess what. The new water pump places the water pump pulley a quater of an inch out of line with the rest of the damn pulleys!!!!!!! Shame on me for not checking... I guess. The bolt patern is the same (duh). the impeller and volute look identical as well as the pulley flanges and the exterior of the pump its self. What the hell?? My wagon has the spfi and is and ea82 powered car that was originally equiped with AC. So.. what car does the water pump that I installed belong on?? The water pump pulley is closer to the engine than it should be. All pulleys on my engine are double shived. Almost there!!!!!! needs a new rear muffler and probally an o2 sensor. ANd a cv boot. Hope this thing runs after all the work, could probally buy another soob for what I have into it for parts !!

Do not recharge with a r12 sytem with 134a. The two are not compatable. The assumtion that replacing r12 with r134a is easy, is a fallacy. Synthetic oils must be used with r134a. It is not readily mix with mineral oil or alkylbenzine lubricants, the proper lubes are: poyol ester oil or/and polyalkylene glycol depending upon what the manufacturer deems apropiate for the application. As far as the retrofiting goes an increase of condenser and evaporator size of up to 30% over a similar r12 system is comon practice. also, the desiccant used with r134a is a molcular seive. r12 used a silicone gel. Hoses are usually smaller in diameter in a r134a system as compared to those of a r12 system. The control systems also vary, and are important to the proper operation of the system. Along with the above mentioned items.

The pet-cock didn't exactly snap off.. it kinda popped off. Think I need to take a better look at the construction of the doohicky. On this radiator (not sure if it is stock) the drain tube can rotate around the drain plug(pet cock) . The whole unit is an inch and a half tall or two. I should just post a pic later , describing this thing is above and beyond my literary skills. Thanks for the offer of a used radiator, I will pass and just get a new one, thank you.

So I was given a 88 wagon with a broken timing belt. And during the timing belt cover/water pump removal/ drain the coolant proceedure the pet- cock on the radiator popped off!! Think I need a new one? Hmmmm. I'm wondering where the choice place to purchase one would be. In the Seattle area. Thanks

Seattle. I think one would be in violation of a state regulation (if you live in washington) and do not currently own a subaru wagon.

Hello all, soon I will be getting a 88 gl (or dl) 4wd wagon . It needs the timing belts replaced. My first subie but not my first semi-involved engine project. Oh, I'm getting the wagon for the cost of renting the dolley to tow it to my place!!!! Pretty sweet I think, the engine has 200K on it, how is that number for milage on a subaru? I here rumors that you can put more miles on these things than a space shuttle. Just thought I would say hi. After I read through the manual I have I'll be doing a little achive searching and question asking regarding the car and the work that it will need to be drivable, but for know I don't have enough info to ask decent questions. Side note: I have a couple of ea82? engines in various states of togetherness and once things get sorted out with my new ride I'll be selling off the surplus parts. I highly recommend avoiding 1993 vintage audis with automatic trasmissions.