daeron

heh, threadjacked? sorry bgd yah i gotcha.. i was just saying i have always used the one term as a label for all that hunk of knowledge.. in a similar manner i call "heisenberg uncertainty principle" on anything that might fall under the wide umbrella of "chaos theory" anyhow, i was trying to find a way of stating (in fewer words, and with more humour) that i had wrapped all that knowledge into a box and labeled it, and just reached out my label, looked it up on wikipedia, and used it as a link for a punchline not even knowing offhand which of the specific laws i was quoting; i had mashed them into one in my head, because in my mind its all about grand unification anyhow. Entropy is one of those tricky words that has a very concrete definition in the material, techinical world, and yet a totally different one philosophically.... entropy, philosophically is more like the opposite of chaos.. an ultimately achieved state of uniformity. another good one is emulsify, ask a chemist and a college english teacher to define that term and compare the definitions you get. HAH! okay, sorry folks, im going to bed now. my sleep deprivation has gone on long enough, and im not going to subject you all to it any more!

yah, i posted the link before i read it myself Ive always filed all that stuff away under "law of conservation of smuh" where smuh == energy or mass as it may take form in the corporeal universe. my brain is more than odd.. im beginning to think is prime.... indivisible by anything other than itself and 1....

look no offense, but you people SUCK!!!! I want options for subarus!!! I want to be able to plan on a day when i can just "keep my eye peeled" and find that d/r SPFI fivespeed sedan or wagon parked on the corner for 300 bucks!!! *sigh* I guess, it happened with my 75 Datsun 280Z about 10 years after I had any right to hope for it. its not gonna happen for a soob. :sad:

I take it Mom is there to handle the fine china, lenox crystalware, and glass? but back on topic, it sounds like it HAS to be a sheer physical obstruction. a word of advice: buy a book on weber carburetors. Read it as if it were the friggin berenstein bears, read it like you want to read it and you will NEVER have a problem with the carb again. they are nice, simple machines, that always want attention to run *perfect* but will almost always run acceptably if properly tuned... I dont know beans, first-hand.. all my carb work has been done on other peoples cars, which is to say, i "helped" ("Go get me a beer shawn!!" ) but i mean, its all there in one handy, toilet-reservoir apparatus!! come to think of it, why cant we just call them crapuretors??? i mean, no offense, im not knocking carbs by ANY means.. but seriously.. john crapper, inventor of the toilet, right? same principle? Crapuretor! ANYHOW sorry, i need sleep apparently. GD knows much more about the downdraft weber than I ever will (unless i get an old dastun pickup) as ALL of my carb knowledge is from sidedraft land.... not Downdraft Hill. I just figured if i opened my mouth wide enough, someone might come along and really help you by making ME shove my foot in! good luck, and think twice about that book.. im pretty sure Haynes makes a techbook on downdraft webers.... worth the investment for something thats feeding fuel into your car.

it helps when there is a soft washer between the foot of the zip strip, and the rad coil.. and also one on the other side. that allows for a tighter union between fan and fins.

yah man, a watt, is a watt, is a watt, whether it is a watt of rotational energy spinning your compressor, or spinning your alternator(s?) under heavy load, and any conversion from electrical to kinetic energy is wasteful.... Cooling capacity aside, you would LOSE engine power with this system compared to the stock system..... When youre driving down the road, radio and AC off, middle of the day, your alternator isnt doing much charging... and it is putting less physical load on the engine. At night time, in the rain, with front and read windshield wipers going, and fog lights, and the radio on, and defoggers going, and youve got the maplight on to see where the hell youve gotten yourself... the alternator is putting out a high charge, and taking a significant bite out of your engine's available power. Magnets, you know.. when the alt is not excited, the field magnets arent energized and there is no resistance to the rotation of the armature. When the thing is energized, there is a great resistance to the rotation of the armature. You cant get around it, the AC is going to demand power. Im not sure what the conversaion factor is, but a BTU IS translatable into a watt, and into a horsepower figure. stupid, intractable, damnable Law of Conservation of Energy.

I have personally had the dickens of a time with the wire leading from the battery terminal IN to the fusible link block... the connection at the block has been terribly problematic for me. As for the EGR solenoid, i must remind you that the CEL codes is, in fact, "EGR Solenoid (or circuit)" and it may well be a minimal, or intermittent short in the wires leading up to the EGR solenoid rather than an issue with the system itself... common issue to read about here. Unfortuantely, the only good way I am aware of to check is to painstakingly inspect the length of the accused wires for defects.. As for the "christmas tree" in your dashboard lighting up, I am still thinking the alternator is likely "bad" in some sense.

okayy... well, the cables are intact at the carb linkage? are they intact at the pedal end? is it possible that there is a break somewhere? can you force the throttle closed at the carb, only to have it bounce back open? How well do you know your return springs and their proper placement? any chance this is as simple as a spring not being where it should be? Have you visually confirmed that the butterfly is open? (i cant imagine that any other situation would result in a high rev, but hey..) I am stabbing in the dark trying to help you cuz youre getting no other answers.. in my experience the only thing thats done that with a carburetor is a missing, broken, improperly placed, or othewise fouled up return spring. if you can find some sort of spring that will return the throttle to the closed position (AND if the throttle isnt physically stuck or otherwise prevented from closing) you can at least get the car home, by my thoughts.

okay.. pity, i cry Pity on us fools, O great and loquacious one, with your wit so sharp it might even suffice to pry out a sticky oil seal..... Why was that funny? I have the feeling that the humour is rather in my vein, but the knowledge necessary for the joke to be conferred is simply lacking. I almost rose to the bait and asked before you had to edit your post... and I got home tonight and saw it still sitting there, I googled his name, and found out hes an actor. (i figured that) What else is there?:-\

well it was a nice, rich, dark brown color... how about, black coffee colored? not black in a thin layer by ANY means, but in a pan full of it, black is the best description... Oh, btw i was using coolant and water interchangeably.. because i wasnt running antifreeze, stopped that when i started this leak... BUT my gallon water jug went missing at one point, reached into the trunk and found half a gallon of antifreeze!! so i poured that in there within the last 300 miles or so... still a bit of a tinge to the water, but again nothing in the oil. No milkshake appearance WHATsoever to the oil, only to the water in the radiator. I will have to check for water coming out the exhaust..... hadn't thought of that yet. Hopefully I wake up in time to drain the water out of the radiator, too. Had I not gotten canned from my delivery job all of this would have been dealt with by now :-\ it really sucks going from making 500-600 a week to making 250-300.....ive got "work" but i wouldn't call it a "job" thanks for the feedback there, gary.. that pretty well set me to rest. I am not trying to go the winter without doing the gaskets.. just trying to make it to my 3rd or 4th paycheck, maybe pay the telephone bill and maintain things like that before jumping on to repairing the vehicle. the way I see it, there IS a loyale over on the west coast (of florida) for 500 bucks that just needs a CV axle. WORST case scenario, i blow my engine...... time for a GL-10 transplant into a new chassis! I'll miss the sunroof, a little, but whadevah..

well, i just sucked some up into the intake, shes idling, burning it off right now, and im off to work. nothin like confusing the afternoon rush hour with a cloud of smoke coming from a dilapidated looking old subaru.. but i'll be the only one on the road with nothing to worry about

well see, thats the peculiar thing.... there is no coolant in the oil, that i could tell. that is three oil changes so far, with nothing in the oil but oil.. no rainbow patina on the top of it, no milkshake looking sluurry, just used motor oil. Black, but thats normal.... I havent seen any oil in the coolant, for that matter, but its NOT leaking, it IS dissappearing, its bubbling pressure out of my reservoir, and the water constantly looks gunky, so I don't believe i am simply in need of (another) new radiator cap... but I havent run a compression check yet, because I gathered that a minimal HG leak such as this, might well not even show a significant difference in compression. i have experienced no tendency towards overheating as long as I had plenty of water in the car, no power issues associated with headgasket problems, NO serious symptoms beyond a bubbling into the overflow every time i cut the car off.. and while running, although i certainly cannot claim CONSTANTLY on that, it certainly seems so. mild burbling, and its just the bubbling out thats being lost... Am I torpedoing my block, if there are no signs of coolant in the oil?? i know what to look for, and it aint there to be sure. Haven't drained the water out lately, no time to let it cool down in the day :-\ thanks for the comments.

the brake booster vacuum supply line is handy... its kind of a two person job, as one man can start the vehicle while the other holds a thumb on the vacuum line, then keep foot on the pedal to make sure the engine doesnt stall while sucking up the juice, and to cut it off after 20 seconds or so. once its sucked in, reconnect your vacuum line, wait 5-10 minutes, fire her up, and get ready for smoke. dont rev too high right away (never a good idea on an OHC engine, always wait at LEAST 15-30 seconds for some oil to hit your top end) but rev her up, or even drive around.. use some spirit with the accelerator, and burn that crap off!!!!! its good stuff, and repels mosquitos to boot Yes, down here in sunny south Florida, mosquitos are still an issue, and my legs and arms are still bare to their wrath. double edged sword, huh? no off-freezing of the butt, but i scratch my arm even as i write this post....

yeppers, right on de money. sorry about saying "bolt-in" when only two bolt holes match up... but its a very common upgrade ive read about over and over. you arent the only one who doesnt like the thought of that weight on your water pump shaft. search my name with starter +relay, and you can find a handy junkyard source of relays, brackets, and wires to set it up nice. spoiler: four prong bosch relays out of a late 80s BMW 3-series, with handy plugs included in car, and a bracket in case you want to add more relays (IE for starter control circuit, fog lights, whatevah.....)

bump? i guess ill pour some in now, and go do a couple more errands, then drain the oil and add a reasonable amount with the new oil.

awesome cruck, you gotta know thats been posted here before I love the interior of that thing though.. it doesnt appeal to my tastes so much, but its impressively well done. come to think of it, that about sums up my opinion of the LOOKS of the whole vehicle... not my cup of tea, but a stunning job nevertheless. i mean, they did make it look like a dodge....

yep. find an EA-81 car that had AC installed, and take the secondary electric fan off that. straight bolt-in, but thats hearsay (i havent done it yet, just read it a thousand times)

nice.. i HATE my digi dash, but dont have the motivation to retrofit an analog cluster into an overly-rusted car...:-\

i am _much_ more concerned about the longevity of the bottom end once i DO replace the headgaskets. I am worried about coolant contamination in the oil, and want to take steps.... thats all. not seeking any repair for the headgasket issue, per se.. just trying to avoid it snowballing due to my delay in repairing it.

okay, im about to go buy a can of sea-foam and a couple quarts of oil. Ive got a head gasket thats going bad, and i am bubbling cylinder compression into my radiator.. should i add some seafoam and run it a day or two, then drain it and replace it? should i change it, and just add seafoam in the fresh oil? or would it be best to do both? (yeah, I know, I am trying to limp along for a couple more weeks though... the longer i procrastinate the more i can do when i finally do fix her.) I have never used it as oil additive before, only by sucking it into the intake via vacuum line. Im curious to hear what my best course of action is. I did a quick search, but this is kind of an impulsive thing getting checked off my list today, so I don't have oodles of time. yah, and im a little lazy. sorry

try reading a factory service manual from the 70s!!! the FSMs for the Datsun Z-cars were all very closely based on the original 240Z FSM that must have been written in 1970. The technical translations are wonderfully obscure, and combine that with the fact that it seems like they were translated from Japanese to English English (as opposed to american) by a Frenchman, and you get a whole mess of crud to wade through!! by the 80s they had gotten some better people in to get things clearer.. but those old FSMs (and my uncle has some roadster ones back to the 60's.. yikes..) were really nigh on impossible.

Yar, what he said. This site is a great stimulant for endorphins, in the minds of those of us who are coming to realize how much we don't know there truly is nothing like learning, and while reading is no substitute for experience, it still fires up the ol' neurons and grows new synapses, and thats always good stuff. Reading also results in fewer bashed fingers, cuts, and bruises.

seafoam deep creep is even better than PB Blaster.. try it, you wont regret it.

and BGD, why does your car have "red-eye" in your avatar foto???? did i miss something??? the "bowl" in that carburetor is for FUEL that is destined to be burnt and utilized for its chemical composition.. NOT SOMETHING ELSE...... :burnout

"irregularly," huh? subtle humour there, i like it