daeron

yah, ive got one of those spark plug cleaners, too.. any detriment in using a wire wheel on a bench grinder??? Thats my typical mode of "cleaning" a spark plug to re-use it... I'm not super crazy or anything, and I have yet to experience a broken insulator. Besides, I am not so retentive with keeping them for 100K miles...

There is a good chance you could remove the motor and "remanufRacture" it byt cleaning the armature assembly, and the bearings etc, re lubing it, and putting the whole shebang back together. I have yet to do it myself (lazy) but am planning on it. Electric motors are wonderfully simple machines. There is also a gearbox on the motor, which may also want cleaning and re lubing after 20 years of service.. thats two more points to eliminate physical resistance, which is all you have done by cleaning the rails.. of course, the switch contacts helped a great deal, im sure.. but still, you could think of it as another 1/3 of the job you have yet to do.

:lol: :lol: :lol: you should see mine!! sorry i have no camera.. but I will some day post photos.. its GOTTA be unique......

Ive logged at least 200K miles driving in the seven years since I got my license. maybe more. I have been my fathers primary assistant in maintaining, repairing, restoring, ALL the family vehicles since I was 12. Everything (except the For E-150, the chevy blazer, and the Mercury sable) got NGKs. Same reason. All those miles, never a thought about a "bad plug." Just occassionally thinking, "Gee, thirty thousand again? Probably should change those plugs..." I may not have had as many pages pass thru my fingers yet, but ive been paying attention as long as I can remember... I just hope that nothing changes. I want to be forty, fifty, sixty years old and saying the same thing still.. too many other brands have turned into crap.. can you say, black & decker, anyone?

so, to rephrase the answer, in terms of the question.. the throttle plate SHOULD open more than 3/4 of the way with the pedal action, and if you can open it further with the wire, by hand, than by the pedal, it needs tightening? I haven't actually even looked at my car yet, but I seem to recall thinking it might could be opening a bit further, once, when I did look down the TB. Not something I do all that often, you know.

awesome, thanks for the heads up. Ive been meaning to attend to the window issue since I got the car.. Originally anticipated tearing into the doors, lubing the tracks, and giving the motors a quick clean-n-lube.. then heard about the relay. this photo makes that part, THAT much simpler because now I know i already have relays for replacement as for the mechanical aspects of the job.. ech. I'm good with windows, but that doesn't mean I like tearing into them....

you got backup of that? anyone care to chime in? that would be interesting to know for certain... I hate to doubt your word, but it WAS a rather brief statement... where did you hear this?

seems like it passes the buck. That is exactly what I thought, but since I have yet to actually do anything along these lines first-hand, on my own vehicle.. the knowledge is not as solid as what I know about what I _have_ done. That plus, GD worded that really really well.. short and sweet. it seems to me the sort of thread thats nice to find on a search for such information

Oh, I wholeheartedly agree.. I have had flawless performance from them, and never used anything else. I have known too many people with too many miles swearing BY NGK, with stories just like your own, to do otherwise.. I was just curious if you knew of a link somewhere with a breakdown of what character indicates what characteristic, thats all. A key, of sorts, to the designation codes... Knowledge like that is good to have, and I am trying to winnow it out the slow way.. but I like to ask questions along the way

okay, GD, just for clarification.. if you squirt oil into the cylinders, and the compression inproves in one problematic cylinder, that is.. an indication of ring wear, is it not? I ask for posterity's sake, because thats an excellent answer to his question, but its lacking that statement

northwet: where did you get that info?? I would love to read the page that came from, so to speak....

blown? you just THOUGHT of the idea and you already blew the engine? mustve been an EA-82 then... paper headgaskets FTW (edit: for the record, that was dry wit, not misinterpretation of the term "blown")

increased heat, or electrical load (charinging or draining,) or vibration, from higher RPMS causing a ground to fault. Or, a non-functioning alternator. But, given that the alternator is definitely good, see above.

yah, what he said. and what I said before that. coil and distributor have nothing to do with voltage, other than eating it.

QUOTE OF THE DAY!!! fantastically well-worded. Some advice: I worked briefly for my brother's boss as a warehouse guy at a professional detailing supply place. This guy resold Malco products, as well as mixing his own stuff in the shop.. car wash soaps, wheel acids, tire dressings and the like... one of the things he mixed himself was a window cleaner that he calls Squeaky. Now, this stuff isnt distributed nationally or anything, BUT it is hands down the best glass cleaner I have ever used.. water it down 15:1 and it still works better than windex, and its like 8 bucks a gallon. I havent used anything else (other than in a workplace) in about four years.. it might be worth it so some of you folks to think about trying to find a similar place locally. I dunno, I just started thinking that I have NEVER had a problem with my windows, then I realized "well shawn, you DO use that 'squeaky' stuff from Brite Products..." nigh universal solvent!

side draft and down draft are two different worlds, but when it comes to Datsuns (which use sidedraft) solex and weber are virtually even. Not identical, but equally good, and very similar. If memory serves, the jets for one are available in step-down increments, whereas the other have them available in whatever size you want... but i cannot recall which. Not much help, I know, but its something

thanks for the post... now to look up "trochoid pump" on wikipedia.. i have NEVER seen a pump designed like that. (obviously havent torn down my engine yet) I love learning

i lived in a 100 yr old wooden farmhouse in the mountains in NC when i was a little boy.. we had two functioning wood fireplaces, and six that were boarded up... one of the unused ones got a huge central kerosene heater installed, and we had that plus two space heaters, plus a 300 gallon tank that we had filled, and that was our only source of heat.. I know cold, my old man took the family up to Cold to get away from the DEvelopment down here and we had to run back to Paradise.. you can have your cold. I just have fond memories of kerosene heaters, thats all. I am just now turning off my AC and opening the windows in my house. i LOVE it!

OK, cool.. I was curious because someone in an earlier post had theorized that maybe the kerosene was helping solve a detonation problem.. high test should have a similar result. I hadn't noticed you said you had to re-jet the carb. I just know that alot of these EA-82s do like their high octane.. it may be an FI thing, I'm not sure.. BUT, I wanted to make sure you werent being stubborn about it like I had been btw kerosene heaters rock

allright. you got me. I have never stored an engine.

no, its not that they do not emulate laboratory conditions, it is simply that they do not control enough variables.. they arent pointing out all the things they are missing, but they make one assumption and never question it, and build upon that assumption rather than looking at a proper picture. They miss variables that need to be controlled, and they fail to vary their experiments through enough of a range of possibilities to draw results that could be called conclusive.. I am attempting to summarize the 15 or so holes I seem to isolate in each episode I see.. its about three times yelling at my television between each commercial break, anyhow.. its a great show, just not great source of primary information, thats all I am trying to say.

desertsubaru: what octane fuel do you use? low test or high?

I always wanted to get ahold of a nice, 1+ horsepower chainsaw engine to run an auxiliary supercharger on my Zcar.. i had the idea way before i even understood what supercharging was (i was explaining this idea to my dad and he said "yah, thats what a turbo does. and a supercharger." i was 14 or 15) and a couple years before i ever saw the ricer ebay things show up.... i still think it would work, too. just gotta keep two engines running :- )

I will say it again, I dont take any "fact" determined by the Mythbusters Scientific "Method" as conclusive. good show, yah.. but bad experimentation methods.

I like to go get the biggest rubbermaid/sterilite plastic tub i can find, drop the longblock straight in, and fill that mother up with rotella! seriously. EVERY engine i have EVER stored has gone through that procedure.