daeron

chainman: look at the "similar threads" listed below. thats often better than the search feature.

glad I put it that way, and thanks for the tip

I am glad I didnt say anything. I have been wondering (for about two weeks) how long it would be to hear someone with your exact tale... Sorry for your loss, man. Can't help you finding a ride though, I am about 46 states away from you

Wood blocks work as well, but as he said, cinder blocks are NOT safe. That being said, I *have* done a fair amount of work in my driveway (not garage at my house, the "shop" is 15 miles away) using cinder blocks as stands.. BUT IT MUST BE DONE WITH AT LEAST HALF A BRAIN CELL!!!! the ONLY way it will even HOLD the weight for a MOMENT is to set the cinder block as it would be built into a wall (with the holes pointing up and down, so as to be filled with concrete) and then put a piece of 2x8 on top of it, TOTALLY covering the cinder block! The wood distirbutes the weight around the perimeter of the cinderblock. Your safety level (already low to begin with) drops proportionately to how thin that piece of wood is. Plywood is NOT an option. Many might think to turn the cinderblock on its side, but it would just totally crush under the weight. Now, all that being said.. anyone got a pair of cheap jackstands?

second generation mazda RX-7s all had wonderful oil coolers right down in front, most in the junkyards over here are in good shape. they are about 60cm? long or so, about 10-15cm high, and about 4-5 cm thick. (rough estimates combined with rough metric conversions.. but its an idea of the dimensions at least) I dont know exactly what type of fittings it had, but my family and I have used them as bolt-ons for datsun Z-cars many times.

NOBODY ever touches on that... the cap is held in place, not by threads, but by two metal tabs on the underside. Bending those tabs "up" towards the rubber seal, tightens the fit of the oil cap. I discovered this right after I did my timing belts, as I was checking the oil before I started her for the first time.

stop. :-p The search function is a handy tool. Another handy tool (that was just pointed out to ignorant Me..) is the "similar threads" feature at the bottom of the screen. check those out, too. Welcome aboard, this soob is a wonderfully simple little beast to wrench on, it turns on a dime, and its just a hair over a ton!! cant ask for too much more.

I had the pleasure of meeting an acquaintance/friend from high school about six months ago, on our way to a mutual friends birthday party.. He is making much much more money than me, and although I wasnt INCREDIBLY embarassed about that, he is also driving a brand new 350Z. My soob is a mega-shabby rustbucket that warrants a tetanus shot for all those who step within 25 feet... Anyhow, I arrived at the shopping center where we were meeting (he didnt know where the house was) and there had been some american muscle car guys meeting at a burger king there.. he got there first, and parked in something of a corner, all diagonally, kinda showing off his car. I pulled up an IMMEDIATELY saw a TINY space that would JUUUST allow me to pull the soob in, at about 15 MPH, and look utterly insanely impossible to anyone who wasnt Me... (or any of us behind our soobie steering wheels) The look on his face was priceless.

Yah, dont overestimate the transmission. BUT, I would bet that a simple detergent treatment would be almost as good in your case. I had a friend who had to replace the borg-warner T5 in his 92 RS camaro.. and that transmission used dexron III for oil. I have been wondering for some time now, exactly why such heavy oils are traditionally used... unless it is for longevity of oil life. It almost seems they try to ensure that the problems will be minimal by using a substance as close to Grease as possible

one could always take the cheapest socket you could find in the store, hit it good and hot with a blowtorch to rob it of its temper, and drill a hole in the side to run the wires through

That was my thought... BTW, flyjum, at the extreme bottom right corner of ANY thread, there is a feature called Similar Threads. It is somehow much more intelligent than the search feature.. and it would be wise to click on a few of those threads and read others experiences. Most everyone who has done headgaskets more than twice says go with the Fel-Pro permatorque, unless you are buying a case of headgaskets, and don't mind the day or so it takes to replace them :-p Also, it seems to be conventional wisdom that increasing boost over stock dramatically shortens headgasket lifespan, and the headgaskets are unquestionably the achilles' heel of the EA-82 engine. (yah, T-belts are a weak point too, but with a non-interference engine.. pfft) RAM performance is a company that makes aircraft engines, so bear in mind that their product is liable to be designed with long-life and reliability in mind. After all, how much is your time, AND your peace of mind worth? I am Cheapo McCheap.. BUT some things you cant be cheap about.

I think you are right... Interestingly enough, my uncle recently took over rent payments on a warehouse full of mostly datsun stuff.. with alot of corvair stuff, and a few subaru items in it as well. I dont know which motors might be there, but if anyones up for a corvair swap, LEMME KNOW!! allright, enough sarcasm (unless, of course, anyone wants to do it.. ) alfa romeo also made a boxer, but the cost of swapping an alfa boxer in would be absurd, and its more comparable to a VW motor than anything else. I think a porsche engine would be the dream (non-fuji) choice... I cant recall any other manufacturers that made anything as modern as an ea-81/2..

Nail on the head. Wiring, cooling, and fitment issues are the obvious ones... THIS is the crucial part of it. I am a bigtime Datsun Z-car guy (240/260/280Z no X, seventies only thanks..) and people have been stuffing smallblocks (AND big blocks!!) into them forever.. but then they have to take the ~500 pound driveline out, replace it with a ~800 pound driveline, and weld about 400 pounds of steel underneath it to stiffen the chassis. Im sure the chassis stiffening could be done more weight-economically... but that requires UBER-engineering... So, yah, you start with the Japanese corvette, stuff an american corvette engine in it, add 1000 pounds, and suddenly youve got a 3300 pound car (dry) powered by a corvette powerplant.... why not just buy the plastic pig in the first place and get it over with? the primary advantage of these little jap cars is one thing only: low weight. that LS-1 powered Zcar sure could beat mine in a striahgt line (16s vs 14s, easy....) but when its time to turn, even with my antiquated brakes and manual steering... he is pigeonholed on the outside, trying to run the only line around that apex he can actually pull off without slinging his heavy tailend around... and i just hug the inside until its time to break off and set up the next apex. Oh hey, look, hes catching up real quick.. until he starts braking 30 feet before I do, and doesnt start the accel until im already shifting into third and dusted him by four car lengths, high up in the powerband, and just gone. It works fine! IF it is your thing. promary concerns are weight additions necessary. if your not going to install a motor that has gobs more torque and HP, then these issues fade.. but if they havent been brought to your attention yet, ponder it. Personally, if you can make a powerplant go into a car it was never intended to be in, im all for it. I want an old Aries/Reliant K to drop and SRT-4 driveline in with ultra quiet exhaust... it just doenst get any sleepier than that.

I think nothing ever would have gotten beyond that point if you hadn't said "i was lied to," which kinda implies we were the liars... all of us have said "i hate this FRKING CARR!!!!" a time or two.. but GD kindly point out that you DID buy for the turbocharged model, which comes hand-in-hand with the potential for difficulties. it is more complex, after all. I dont think ANYone had any malice or jackassery intended beyond making that simple point. And prospeeder: i hear ya....

Rope technique worky GOOOOOOOOD.. super reliable, and easy to use in the junkyard, by yourself, as well. even though you dont care so much about the junkyard motor (i didnt even put the spark plug back in oops!) its still easier than many ways.

I _think_ hodaka rider was talking about the threads cut in the head, that are now uncovered by the spark plug. He meant that any plugs you get in the future that might thread down that deeply could be difficult to install, and also that the ridges of the thread cut into the cylinder head, COULD possibly provide a hotspot... the thinner metal at the "peak" of the thread, might get hot enough to cause pre-detonation, even when your engine would otherwise not be doing so.

I believe the "christmas tree" of lights is an indication that your voltage regulator went out, but the alternator was still putting out voltage.. something along those lines. It sounds like you had a two-stage failure of the alternator, and only stage one gave the car the signal to fly that danger flag, so to speak.

okay, the daytona was what I didnt know about. thanks, I had forgotten about the Conquest.

and he didnt post in this thread once, thru the whole thing! (i know he has already elsewhere) I just find that kinda amusing.

is it possible that you have issues with individual injectors? It REALLY sounds to me like a dropping resistor problem, but most of my fuel injection experience is with my Z, not on a subaru... if there is any way to test the dropping resistor I would do that. A trip to a junkyard for a spare distributor and dropping resistor to swap in would be nice...

If you've got a question, Wikipedia probably has an answer. :grin:

BGD: since you said you are a bit color blind, I will answer a little more thoroughly. there is DEFINITELY a region around the hood/wheelwell that has a strong pinkish tint to it. It looks more like a photo issue than the actual color of the vehicle, though.

another conragtulations on the vehicular recovery, and a big pat on the back to all the people (i lost count!) that have already offered parts for the restoration. Thats just f**king heartwarming, man. *wipes*tear*

If I understood your question right, here is the answer.. "OEM" stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. In other words, the company who made the headlights, spark plugs, tires, wiper blades, or whatever specific consumable item on the car. GD said they came over on the boat with no sparks in the holes, I can neither confirm nor deny.. but i dont think you were asking if NGK was OEM, it seemed to me you meant, "whats OEM mean?"

try checking for AC voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running. that would confirm GD post. He is almost certainly right, though.