daeron

the body rust on mine is so bad, around the rear glass, that i havent had any hopes for it from day one. I have been driving on borrowed time for two years and 40,000 miles. It is just not worth repairing, I promise I will get some fotos of it soon for everyone to laugh and laugh about... BUT i have been (idly) looking for my second sube for a while now, if that counts for anything.

okay, number one, if you are DRIVING with the green connectors together, then unplug them. The green connectors are there for timing the engine, and checking for stored ECU codes (IE, "why did the CEL come on a while ago, and turn off?") They are NOT supposed to be plugged in for regular use. Number two, regarding the bubbling overflow.. the only thing that makes it bubble is positive pressure leaking past the seal of the radiator cap. THIS could be happening for a number of reasons. in no particular order: 1. Headgasket bad, pushing cylinder compression into cooling system; 2. seal on radiator cap bad/mating surface on radiator dirty or pitted; 3. improper pressure holding of radiator cap (failed or too low a rating) 4. overheating, causing higher than regular coolant temperature (and thereby raising pressure) Now, I am assuming you would know to double check your temperature gauge. Also assuming that you have ruled out overheating, DESPITE any potential faulty gauge reading. Check the radiator cap seal, and the radiator filler neck.. and if its an old cap, replace it. the stock pressure rating is 13 lbs or so, the parts store should be able to tell you. all EA-82s used the same cap.. otherwise, ive got some bad news for you... check the color of your coolant, and drain your oil and take a good look at it in the sunlight, in an open pan.... because the chances are rather high that you've got a blown headgasket. It's an EA-82 turbo. There are people on the board who hear that you just bought one and say, "chances are rather high that you've got a blown headgasket." sorry.

Yarrr!!!

the daytona was a chrysler assembled mistubishi starion, if I am not mistaken.. at the very least, the two vehicles were intimately related, it may have BEEN a starion.. but the starion was a great car.. thats the opinion of an owner, not a mechanic, but he was a smart guy.. anyhow, i have never heard much Ill about them and they dont show up in junkyards like alot of 80s jap-sportscars do eventually.. (coughsupracough300ZXcough)

Thank you for the answer, I couldn't have asked for a more informative response.

heh, think about it this way.. the engine in that lebaron turbo was the ultimate granddad of the SRT-4 driveline.. chrysler tried some interesting stuff with small, turbocharged engines in the 80's. whe carefully built, they can impress.. IIRC there was a turbo Omni that showed up at the SCCA runoffs several years ago that utterly stomped, EVERYONE. I am not trying to cheer for the Chrysler LeBaron by ANY means, BUT it is a point worth considering.

awesome, TOTALLY over-engineered starters for our fourbangers!

not sure of the diameter, but I can go take the cover off the Zcar and see.. does this look like it would go from point A, to point B? If so, I will step outside and check the diameter. its the upper hose (cut-to-fit) from a 75 datsun 280Z. I will reply with proper part #s and a link, but its the first upper rad hose listed on thepartsbin.com

heh, that thread was like, two weeks before I joined. I am just mortified that I failed to notice the engine, because i failed to notice a big tall gasoline fuel intake on top of it.

GD: try an upper radiator hose for an EA82. I specify because you didnt.. I went out and looked at my sedan, and have the radiator fitting pointing upwards.. but looked at it, and recalled that _I_ had to cut about 1" or more of length off my upper hose when I got it.. (still haven't figured that one out, all other clearances are proper and this car has NEVER been wrnecked.. not THAT bad.. i figure manufacturer error?) So, it looks like about the right shape and size.. especially if you have the extra bit of length I encountered. If you try it, and find you need the length of my "flawed" hose, i can go back to the store and find exact manufacturer/part #.

what about the six though? er27 starter the same as ea82??

How many of those engines have you blown? how many have thrown rods out the cylinder walls? I ask because I don't know. I know the SR20-det looks remarkably like that, as far as cylinder design is concerned, and they are rock-solid. Somewhat beefier, owing to the I-4 design.. easier to make the firing deck a larger quadrilateral.. Its modern engine technology. It may look like snake-oil, but thats because, with CAD, we have managed to winnow out the narrow pathways between idiocies to push the envelope. Alot of people said that an airplane would need far too much structural support to survive breaking the sound barrier to allow it to fly (too heavy,) but that certainly worked. and now we have a phrase like "push the envelope" as a result! As long as you continue to make statements that are so uninformed about this new engine design, you will continue to get flamed for your ignorance. People often get tired of it, so the simplest thing would be to keep your opinions of the EJ series to yourself.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DUDE!!!!! speechless. but no one else had posted yet, so I had to offer my pity!! you sound like one of my friends of misery.... FOUR DAYS>?!???! thats a record! Man, if i had any parts i would GIVE them to you!

Okay now, I am almost 26 years old. When I was 13 I met a guy with a chevy van that ran off LPG, and ever since then I have been intrigued, and wanted to do it. I asked him a thousand questions then, I have plagued LPGSuperchargedBrumby about it, and i have since learned a GREAT deal, but have yet to convert a car. I must humbly admit that I just completely failed to anticipate the near TOTAL lack of "fuel intake" hardware perched on top of the box-four, AND failed to imagine that the entire assembly could be soo ABSURDLY low-profile!! thank you for pointing out that the engine was, in fact, there..... At least I helped someone else ID the muffler :- ) Kick @ss and take names, my friend. nice rig.

have you ever seen the yugo?? or the pacer?? I would take a bronco II over one of those any day. and im no fan of the bronco II, either...

yah, thanks again for the object lesson. Ain't NONE of us "safe," no matter how careful we may be. congrats on steering her straight (enough) through the chaos, and Ibuprofen can be your friend

yah, that digi looks alot cooler than the green one in my car. The orange may not be as easy to see, but the green isnt exactly the greatest for visibility either. O well, I would still rather analog cluster over that.. but I would pine for one less if I had an orange dash :- )

My car is SPFI, but if they are the standard bosch Fuel Injector Connectors, many many many cars. VW, Audi, M-B, BMW, alot of american brands too, jaguar i think... A LOT!!! shouldn't be too difficult, presuming they have junkyards over there in.. Holland.. Even if not, you can buy them new. Clicky for a catalog image of the connector I am talking about.

okay, sorry for the threadjack, but I didn't realize how dickish I sounded with that post. I am also an owner of a freebie set of infinity kappas, and I could never think to drown them in subwoofer.. I am simply not such a fan of the heavy sub-bass as many of my contemporaries are. For my tastes, almost any loudspeaker/enclosure combination would suffice, because I wouldn't have the bloody thing amplified to any absurd volume.. just enough to give me some harmonic convergence in the lower registers. Something to avoid letting the kappas bottom out, you know? no more. I read "15 inch kicker" and thought, "Ugh, overkill." Thats all. no flame intended

ive read this whole thread thinking that there was nothing THAT complex in this system to go wrong, what could be the big deal?? Apparently, there IS. a Check valve.. figures though. Thats what Forums are For!!

sorry, no camera.. but i CAN tell you it isnt a TENTH as cool-looking as it sounds. I hate it with the burning fury of a thousand suns, as a matter of fact, and i do NOT have a problem with digital dashes, just a statistical preference for analog. this soob is DEFINITELY in my "analog" column.

once it started to become apparent that you probalb yjust needed to press harder, i realized I kinda have the same problem, I think.. and to me, it has always felt like there was a good chance one of the long metal arms was a bit bent, or fatigued.. or something worn, in some sense.. more than a simple lube. So, my point it, you may need to swap something to really "fix" this, even if lubing it up makes it OK. It may just be OK for now, you know? just food for thought. Good luck, though.. I will be paying attention. I haven't bothered because MY car isnt anywhere near as bad as yours, yet, and the passenger's side is worse than drivers..

those little door switches are a PAIN!!! They just barely installed enough wire to be able to pull the switch out of its hole. IF you should discover that is the problem, here is some help!!!!! you can remove the palstic trim that says subaru from your rocker panel (the bottom of the doorjamb, right next to the seat adjustments, between carpeting and exterior metal, YAH that thing...) and peel back a tiny bit of carpeting and discover the wires for those door-open switches. My driver's door switch was dead when I got the car from my brother. I Immediately went to take the one out of the rear drivers side door, and discovered there was NO seeing the wires WHATSOEVER.. seriously, like an extra centimeter or so..just enough to rub the wires on the sheetmetal a little bit. clip them, and boom, they are gone into the car somewhere, and even if you hold onto them there is no space to cut, strip, and splice on to. However, remove the palstic, and all becomes clear :- ) I dont know if YOU need this info or not, but since i haven't seen that info come up yet, I figured I would include it in the thread for posterity's sake

Priceless. AWESOME looking rig though, much envy on the LPG conversion. I think the exhaust like that calls for a snorkel on it somewhere, to balance it all out. can't wait to see it with a motor installed

he is right. just patch something in, and confirm that you are right. then break your skull on making it pretty later. make it good and functional, but all you have to do is cut out the nasty bit and stitch it back together.